1/350 Aoshima IJN Takao

[Coyote-Man]

I actually started building this kit three years ago and had been keeping a log (offline) of my progress. This was only my second ship since I began seriously modeling a few years ago. As of now, I am getting close to finishing - I will catch up the build to date over the next few weeks. As you will see in the coming posts, this kit is only mediocre and requires upgrades to make it something worth keeping.

My model is intended to depict the heavy cruiser Takao as she sailed towards Leyte Gulf in October, 1944 before the Palawan Passage. During that cruise, she was torpedoed by USS Darter and forced to return tp port for repairs missing all the action with Admiral Kurita off Samar. Two of her sister heavy cruisers, Atago and Maya were sunk in the same torpedo attack in conjunction with USS Dace.

Planned Components
1/350 Aoshima IJN Takao � 1944 version
FlyHawk Takao Photo-etched Set
Gold Medal Models IJN Takao Photo-etched Set #2
Veteran Models Deck Accessories
Voyager Models IJN Mushroom Vents
Anchor Chain
Fujimi and L�Arsenal Figures

References
Janusz Skulski, �Anatomy of Ship - The Heavy Cruiser Takao�
Steve Wiper, �Warship Pictorial #30: IJN Takao Class Cruisers�
Goralski and Lipiecki, �Japanese Heavy Cruiser Takao, Super Drawings in 3D�
Snyder and Short Imperial Japanese Navy Paint Reference Chart

[Coyote-Man]

Base Construction

The base is from red oak. I used two different sizes of oak stock and essentially made a reverse �picture frame�. I used an Ogee shaped router bit to shape the top edge. After doing this, the edge was sanded with coarse grit paper to smooth it, then fine sanded. I also ripped the notch in the bottom piece of oak before gluing it up. Miter-cutting the ends to the same length, I finally assembled the pieces with framing nails and carpenters glue. At this point, I sent the base to an out-sourced specialty shop for a custom-made acrylic cover. This was a little expensive (about $120) but I deemed it a requirement to protect the completed ship from the dreaded house cats and other maladies such as dust.



Profile of the four base edge pieces. Stupid cat always in the way.



Close-up of the profile of the frame construction. I used two different pieces of red oak � gluing them together. My limited wood-working skills are shown to great effect. I used a table saw and router to get this profile.


I used a frame clamp to hold the pieces together while the wood glue sets up. The paper towels prevented any dripping glue from getting on the carpet. Again a curious on-looker is nosing in the picture�

I cut thin 1/4" thin strips of oak to add another support layer surrounding the inside edge for the styrene. These were secured in place with wood glue.


Base Completion and Water
I used Min-Wax oak stain to add color to the oak frame. Then I used satin Min-Wax Polyurethane to finish the stain. I cut a piece of lightweight melamine board as an insert for the bottom of the base using brads to nail the melamine in place. I then made the edge pieces from sheet styrene and joined them together finishing the seams with Mr. Surfacer 500. I cut the profile of a fairly turbulent sea. I then used Great Stuff foam to fill the void and provide a lightweight structure for the hull. This proved problematic as after curing, the foam shrank considerably leaving a gap between the styrene profile and the foam in the center. After thinking about how to fill the gap, I settled on just using sand and white glue. This worked but took several applications to completely fill the seams.

After trimming the foam surface, I taped three pieces of paper together to make a top-view template of the hull shape. I placed the hull on the paper and traced the outline. Then I used the paper template to transfer the shape to the irregular foam surface. I did not waterline the hull. Using a large sharp kitchen knife to cut the outline, I carefully trimmed away the foam. This took several test fittings to set the hull into the foam at the depth I wanted. The fit was very snug and when completed there were gaps around the hull due to the torpedo bulge protruding from the side of the ship. I then used some kitchen silicon to adhere the hull into place in the foam. The silicon cured very strong to the hull. Then, I textured the surface of the foam with a thin coat of Cell-u-clay leaving the gap between the hull and water. This gap was later filled with careful application of Acrylic Gel Medium.

Since I was bracing my hands on the surface of the water to fit many of the superstructure and other details, I left the final painting and finishing of the water until a later point. After all the hull painting details were then added and the kit was about 70 percent completed, I completed the water surface. I used Tamiya paints for the water. I masked the side of the ship with painters tape and carefully painted the water next to the ship. First, I painted Flat Black sporadically in the lower spots. Using Sea Blue, I used a large brush to finish most of the surface of the water, trying to only lightly cover the Flat Black and in spots. I mixed a lighter green color using Medium Green, Light Green and White colors. I used this to depict the ships wake blending with the Sea Blue. I blended quickly before the Sea Blue was totally dry. Normally this is difficult to do with Tamiya paint. Because the surface of the water was highly textured, the paint blended a little easier. Using a smaller brush, I then painted the wake wave-tops Flat White. Thick Acrylic gel medium was used to depict the glossy surface of the water and to add a little depth. I let the Gel Medium set-up over-night. Then I went back a painted the wave-tops again with Flat White, but I didn�t cover the entire wake with the top coat of paint. This allowed the underlying coat of paint to show through as well.

The entire base is large, but not overly heavy as a result of using several lightweight materials. Even then, adding the cover it weighs in at about 20 pounds.

[Coyote-Man]

Preparatory Phase
I couldn�t believe my eyes when I opened the photo-etched set from FlyHawk: twelve PE frets, barrels and resin too! Finishing this was going to be a challenge, especially since this was only my second ship since High School. For a few weeks, I carefully studied the instructions from the FlyHawk set while the order for the ship was filled. Good thing as the FlyHawk instructions are very sketchy in places. You have to be extremely familiar with all facets of the ship to couple this set with the kit. I recommend getting the Skulski book as, with careful inspection, you will see all how the details from the FlyHawk set should be integrated. Without this resource, I would have been hard-pressed to know where all the PE was supposed to go. The 3D drawings of Kagero�s book would be very helpful in getting the rigging right.

This assessment time was well spent as it will take some mental preparation to work in all this PE. When I got the kit instructions, I went through all my references and made notations for a preliminary combined build log. Trust me, you�ll want to do something like this so you don�t forget something� like I forgot to insert a poly cap under the deck section for the third turret in step 8�drat!, now I can�t make it turn. I only loosely followed the kit directions. As I worked through the construction, I marked up the FlyHawk instructions considerably.

Deck
The first thing I did was to clear the two deck sections of those hideous vents and cable reels which came molded on. This is harder than it looks so you don�t destroy the surrounding details on the deck sections. I used a set of snips to clip off the tops, then a scraping tool to trim the excess. I checked all the main deck sections and found numerous places that needed work. I also removed the molded on anchor chains while I was at it.



Stern Section of deck with columnar mushroom vents, winch and cable reels. These will all be replaced.



Forecastle Section of deck as I started cutting off the unwanted items.

Sanding down the affected areas with a sanding stick, I prepared the holes for filling with putty. While I was at it, I inserted the missing section of the forecastle under turret #3 and used Mr. Surfacer to fill the resulting gap on part G1 (see Figure 4). I also assembled the missing section of the stern deck piece. After using the white putty, I let it set, then used CA glue to reinforce the bottom so my clean-up sanding would not crack the dried putty by pushing it out the bottom. I also filled the holes in the front deck (G1) where the paravanes (C24) were supposed to be mounted (these spots will be filled with Veteran Model resin replacements). I went ahead and glued the missing section of the mid (H1) so I could fill any resulting seams with Mr. Surfacer (the gray line in Figure 4). This dried and I was ready for final sanding and a quick coat of primer to reveal any rough spots. This is a good idea to spot any major flaws now before proceeding.


Turret number three forecastle section after filling with putty and Mr. Surfacer.


After primer was sprayed to look for flaws, I found a few had had to re-sand a little and try again...

On the stern deck (C2), the instructions say to drill holes for the 25mm triple anti-aircraft gun tubs (step 14). I drilled the holes and pre-fitted the gun tubs while I was at it. Looking at the tubs, I noticed a problem and modified the over-scale thickness of the gun tub sides while I was at it. The tubs should have a slight outward taper to the top edge � this was fixed using a file - Careful sanding does the trick (see Figure 6). I also cut off the ammo lockers attached as the FlyHawk set has some of these for replacement. There is also an opening on the inboard side to allow sailors to get into the tub, without climbing over� I cut an opening for this as depicted by available references. Upon closer inspection, you�ll see that there also are a few shallow injector pin marks on the floor of the tubs which I removed with my stick sander. After working on the splinter shield, I decided that then walls were too thick still. So I cut out replacements using thin sheet brass.


A before and after photo of the triple 25mm AA gun tubs and the drilled hole on the stern deck. After I mounted these, I decided to trim off the plastic walls and use thin brass strips for the splinter shields.

On the deck sections, I also drilled holes for the stern bollards and the flagstaff (not in the kit) so it would not be easily knocked off. There is also a bow jack staff in my references�I drilled a small hole now while I was thinking about it. My deck sections were now ready for fitting to the hull.

[Dan K]

I will follow your build with great interest.

[Coyote-Man]

Hull Assembly

First I glued on the torpedo bulges before assembling the hull � the instructions say differently. I found it easier to clamp the bulges in place to assure a proper fit (see the photo below). Then I used Tamiya thin glue to flush the joint for a tight fit.


After gluing the torpedo bulges to the hull sides.

Using my scraping tool, then I scraped off the tie-downs along the gun whales (to be replaced by PE pieces later) and the molded on rear anchors and ugly prop guards. I carefully sanded these areas to not destroy any surrounding details (see photo below)


After removing the propeller guard and stern anchor.


The two hull sections went together rather easily. The fit was very good with no required adjustments with the deck. Just be sure that you clamp the pieces together tightly so the deck will fit snugly into place. I fit everything together and held it there using a rubber band then inserting the cross-section supports. Then I worked from the bow back using Tamiya thin glue. I tightly held the gunnels together while the glue set-up in the cross-section supports (see the photo below).


After assembling hull, I test fitted the deck sections.


I then used Tamiya super thin glue to secure the deck sections into place. When fitted properly, there was a sizable gap between the two deck sections. This was mostly okay though as the superstructure will cover most of this. A small portion of the crack is visible after fitting the torpedo deck bulkhead (this is seen a later photo). Just make sure that the sections are pushed firmly fore and aft for a tight fit. I flushed the joints with the glue as I worked my way around the perimeter.

[Coyote-Man]

Note that before I began assembling the Torpedo deck, I went ahead and painted the main deck with the linoleum brown. To find the right color, I had purchased the Snyder and Short Paint chips for IJN colors. Polly Scale had a close approximation of this color in their IJA Brown.


Torpedo Deck

I inspected pieces I7 and I8 and saw that the FlyHawk set has the aircraft deck support girders modeled in PE pieces. I removed the corresponding sections from I7 and I8. I also noticed that the thickness of the piece forward of the catapult mount was over-scale (see photo below).



Part I8 before my surgery.

So I proceeding to use a modeling knife - I scraped away the interior side to reduce the thickness to scale (see next photo).



Scraping away the interior of pieces I7 and I8.


I repeated the wall thinning/scraping of pieces I7 and I8 on the interior of the torpedo bays as well. This will help visually with the over-scale thickness.


Dry fitting the torpedo deck bulkhead (I7 and I8) together with the hull, I realized that some major seams will need to be filled on the hull sides after assembling them. The fit of these pieces was quite tight in places so be careful not to break-off the alignment pins in the front. Again, I used the thin Tamiya glue for these. The seams on the hull sides were filled with two coats of Mr. Surfacer, then sanded down, carefully avoiding the adjacent molded-on detail areas. (see the next few photos to see this).



This photo shows two problems in fit. The seams in the deck and hull after assembly � this one is particularly bad due to the poor fit. Notice the small crack between the two deck sections. A sliver of this crack is visible in front of the bulkhead. I filled it with a bit of square styrene. Also the bottom seam has to be filled.



More of the seam to fill below the aircraft catapult and back...



After filling and sanding. A little primer is needed to see if it really looks ok�



After filling the seam with Mr. Surfacer and careful sanding. Also note the improved appearance of the scale thickness of the curved panel to the left of the aircraft catapult. Little details such as this will help the overall appearance.