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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2020 10:25 pm 
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Hey guys Im been looking for a place that would be more welcoming of my shipbuilding noobness and here I am and my WIP's


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2020 9:45 pm 
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I think it looks great. Pit-Road ship models look really good out of the box. If you need any sort of help or ideas for improving them or references just ask.

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"Those of you who volunteered to be injected with praying mantis DNA, I've got some good news and some bad news." - Cave Johnson, Portal 2


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2020 11:46 pm 
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spejic wrote:
I think it looks great. Pit-Road ship models look really good out of the box. If you need any sort of help or ideas for improving them or references just ask.

Thanks a lot would you happen to know any good references for painting ships with a rattle can.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2020 10:31 pm 
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The general rules for painting with a spray can are to begin spraying away from the model, pass the spray over the model, going back and forth as needed, and then ending away from the model. This is because the initial spray might contain large droplets which would make the paint uneven. Use the paint lightly - it's better to use multiple light coats than one heavy coat. Tape the model to a stick so you can hit all the angles and surfaces without holding it. Do this outside, and when you are done put the model in a covered plastic container to keep it from getting dust on it while it is drying.

The deck and superstructure colors of JMSDF ships are different, but they are very very similar, so much so that occasionally you can't even tell them apart in photographs. You shouldn't have a problem just painting it all one color. It is also a dark color - much darker than most photographs make it seem. When that is done you can run a white pencil over the walkway ridges to make the outlines walkways that Japanese ships usually have. A quality black technical pen (like the Pigma Micron - I use the smallest 0.05 size) can be used to color in the windows and color the details on the sides of the superstructure.

If you are going to use the decals, be sure to create a glossy surface so they sit properly and don't fog up. Any spray can range also has clear gloss coat cans. Use it after the paint is well dried and again use light coats. When the decals are done you can flatten the model down again by using a clear matt coat.

I strongly recommend trying this on some scrap or a failed earlier model first before ruining something you spent a long time building.

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PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2020 9:40 am 
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spejic wrote:
The general rules for painting with a spray can are to begin spraying away from the model, pass the spray over the model, going back and forth as needed, and then ending away from the model. This is because the initial spray might contain large droplets which would make the paint uneven. Use the paint lightly - it's better to use multiple light coats than one heavy coat. Tape the model to a stick so you can hit all the angles and surfaces without holding it. Do this outside, and when you are done put the model in a covered plastic container to keep it from getting dust on it while it is drying.

The deck and superstructure colors of JMSDF ships are different, but they are very very similar, so much so that occasionally you can't even tell them apart in photographs. You shouldn't have a problem just painting it all one color. It is also a dark color - much darker than most photographs make it seem. When that is done you can run a white pencil over the walkway ridges to make the outlines walkways that Japanese ships usually have. A quality black technical pen (like the Pigma Micron - I use the smallest 0.05 size) can be used to color in the windows and color the details on the sides of the superstructure.

If you are going to use the decals, be sure to create a glossy surface so they sit properly and don't fog up. Any spray can range also has clear gloss coat cans. Use it after the paint is well dried and again use light coats. When the decals are done you can flatten the model down again by using a clear matt coat.

I strongly recommend trying this on some scrap or a failed earlier model first before ruining something you spent a long time building.


This is an amazing how to thanks for all the information.


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