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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 5:54 pm 
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Location: Mount Vernon, WA USA
Hi all,

I'm currently starting a build of a 1944 Ticonderoga AND 1945 Bunker Hill using the 1/350 Trumpeter Ticonderoga and Franklin kits respectively.

There is so much scratch building and detailing to do on these ships that I thought I'd save time (and future sanity) by working two hulls concurrently.

A few years back I started a Hancock...it went pretty sideways on me. I put it aside when I found out I had totally gaffed the Forward Flight Deck cut out. I pestered Steven's for a replacement deck...but they're not too accommodating for spare parts. A few months later they contacted me and said they had a Yorktown Deck that was mine if I wanted it. I snatched it up thinking I might build another "long-hull" but all the work I had done pretty much committed me to Hancock.

So I bit down hard, saved some money and bought a Ticonderoga kit. The fwd deck from that kit went to the CV-19 box and I had a long Forward Flight Deck to accurately build Ticonderoga in 1944...win win. But for now I'm going ahead with the Tico/Hill with all I learned from Hana.

Attachment:
IMG_TICO_Hill_007.JPG
IMG_TICO_Hill_007.JPG [ 113.83 KiB | Viewed 1714 times ]


These are my two kits side by side as you can see I’m barely getting started.

Attachment:
IMG_ESSEX_009.JPG
IMG_ESSEX_009.JPG [ 90.18 KiB | Viewed 1714 times ]


Here are the Foredecks in work; the Tico “Fore Hanger Deck” was nearly .080” too long.

Attachment:
IMG_ESSEX_005.JPG
IMG_ESSEX_005.JPG [ 135.96 KiB | Viewed 1714 times ]


But the long and short-hull placed together aligned almost perfectly…Trumpeter…

Attachment:
IMG_ESSEX_006.JPG
IMG_ESSEX_006.JPG [ 68.48 KiB | Viewed 1714 times ]


I had to cut and file it down to fit into the fwd hull section. I also plugged the holes for the Mk-51’s (they will go up to the fwd edges of flight deck) as well as the fwd 40mm mounting holes. I cut splinter shields free from the base and mounted them on the deck and made new mounts. I’m currently in the process of doing the aft two 40mm mounts the same way, making them flush w/ the deck as opposed to sitting on top.

Attachment:
IMG_ESSEX_008.JPG
IMG_ESSEX_008.JPG [ 91.64 KiB | Viewed 1714 times ]


I also replaced all the Bitts; they look much better than the molded nubs. I came up w/ a fairly quick and easy way if anyone wants me to share.
I’ve never posted a build before…a little intimidating with the skill that lurks in this forum. I’m at best an intermediate skilled modeler that has a terrible habit of letting models defeat me and subsequently I never complete any. I’m hoping for input and encouragement and yes, brutal honesty.

But mostly I know with all the knowledge out there I should be able to be at least a fair Padawan… thanks in advance! :smallsmile:

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 8:07 pm 
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Location: Wisconsin, USA
Looks like a big project! I wouldn't worry about posting your build- I'm impressed by anyone who just owns, and even more, uses, calipers! Also, I would be very interested in your bitt technique. I'm looking forward to following your builds.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 8:37 pm 
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Nice start - very ambitious!
Rob Jansen wrote:
But the long and short-hull placed together aligned almost perfectly…Trumpeter…

My understanding is that the "long hulls" were longer on the upper part of the bow where the hull could accommodate two 40mm guns. They should be the same length at the waterline.

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"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday." John Wayne

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 8:40 pm 
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I am going to be very interested to see the corrections you make to these kits. Good start!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 7:48 pm 
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Location: Mount Vernon, WA USA
MartinJQuinn wrote:
Nice start - very ambitious!
Rob Jansen wrote:
But the long and short-hull placed together aligned almost perfectly…Trumpeter…

My understanding is that the "long hulls" were longer on the upper part of the bow where the hull could accommodate two 40mm guns. They should be the same length at the waterline.


Martin...OK to you I'm...a "Youngling" :worship_1: That was what I was trying to show; I guess I didn't convey very well. the waterlines line up fine between the two hulls. They match at the waterline which calls into question the Fore Hanger Deck piece length. Oh well I think it came out OK though.

Timothyo, I'd be glad to show how; just let me get to the weekend (I'm pretty busy during the week) and I'll post some pictures and jot down the "specs".

Gabriel, Thank you. I've still got lots of questions but Tracy White, :worship_1: yeah again, he and this forum get the credit for most of what I have!

Hopefully I'll get a little time this week.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 8:25 pm 
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Timothyo wrote:
Looks like a big project! I wouldn't worry about posting your build- I'm impressed by anyone who just owns, and even more, uses, calipers! Also, I would be very interested in your bitt technique. I'm looking forward to following your builds.


I spent the whole morning engaged in the utter monotony and tedium of trying to fill the gaps on my fore deck of my CV-17. The fit was awful; much worse than my Tico fore deck that I had to modify so much. I used my favorite “gap-filler” stretched sprue glued into the gaps. I sanded flush and gave it a coat of Tamiya putty, should be ready so sand tomorrow morning. I also got the aft 40mm gun tubs modified so they will fit flish with the deck rather that up on top of it.
Attachment:
TICO_HILL_010.JPG
TICO_HILL_010.JPG [ 105.39 KiB | Viewed 1411 times ]


As promised: I have no more Mooring Bitts t add to my Essex builds so I grabbed a deck from Trumpeters 1/350 Massachusetts if that's OK.

1.) First; punch-out a mass-amount of .010” disks using the 1/16” punch (1/32” for 1/700) what you don’t use today can be used for an infinite number of things tomorrow. My punch is from Micro-Mark, Waldron also makes; these are preposterously expensive…but, they are invaluable once you have them (I also could not imagine scratch building without calipers either).
Attachment:
BITTS_000.JPG
BITTS_000.JPG [ 132.11 KiB | Viewed 1411 times ]

2.) I use 3/64” Rod (.025” for 1/700), I cut a piece about 6” long. I use a drill bit with a .001” interference so that the plastic rod is just snug as it is pushed in and pulled through in the hole, this is important because it makes it a lot easier.
3.) After I carefully cut off the molded “nipples”, I file them flat but NOT flush, leaving them just visible as shown makes it very easy to layout and center your drill bit as opposed to guessing the location. Try and drill as straight as possible. AFTER the holes are drilled hit them w/ the sanding stick.
Attachment:
BITTS_001.JPG
BITTS_001.JPG [ 140.85 KiB | Viewed 1411 times ]

4.) I take a piece of strip plastic approx .100” and using the same bit drill a hole as strait as possible trough it. This is what I use to “square-up” my rod for each Bitt. Push the plastic rod up through the hole until it just sticks out and file the end flush with the surface and remove. This should make your rod end reasonably perpendicular with little effort as you proceed.
5.) Brush some cement on the end of the rod and then use it to pluck up one of the disks, a pester it a bit with my fingers until it looks about right then I gently tap it against the table to make sure its seated well.
Attachment:
BITTS_002.JPG
BITTS_002.JPG [ 126.33 KiB | Viewed 1411 times ]

6.) Now push it into one of the holes and pull it through until it’s sitting about .100” high. I use another strip of .080” strip with a hole bored through it and the end sanded fairly close to the hole for clearance as my height setter. I place this over the bit and then gently press the rod with the end of my x-acto knife until it’s flush, then I carefully remove the jig. Just a note: .080” = 28” in scale height, I looked up some specs and found the larger Bitts to be 24”-27” high, so if you think they look too high you could use a .060-070”
Attachment:
BITTS_003.JPG
BITTS_003.JPG [ 66.77 KiB | Viewed 1411 times ]

7.) Cut the end under the deck with your sprue cutters. Double check the height in case you pulled or pushed it a little (this is where snug comes in good) and the add cement to both sides.
8.) Repeat:
9.) I usually do only one and move to the next, that way when I’ve gotten one done on each Bitt pair, the glue on first one will be dry making it less likely that I’ll disturb it.
Attachment:
BITTS_004.JPG
BITTS_004.JPG [ 107.84 KiB | Viewed 1411 times ]

I think it is very easy and you can see the difference, I think it is definitely worth the time.

That's all I have for now; I have a lot of fitting and filling to do before I can do anything "interesting".

Thank you so much for your interest in my builds.

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-Rob <><


Last edited by Rob Jansen on Sun Mar 15, 2015 7:49 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 9:58 pm 
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Location: San Diego, CA
Thanks for the tip on making the bits Rob.

They look really good and your methodology seems pretty sound.

Will definitely try this on my next build.

Looking forward to seeing more of your build to as I have a couple of CVs in the stash.

Thanks again.

PH


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 10:31 pm 
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Rob,

I'm watching your progress on this endeavor. I have a couple of Trumpeter Essex carriers (to be USS Lexington CV-16) in my stash to be done. I like what I see so far. Don't be defeated by them!

Cheers!

-Joseph

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1/350 I-400 IJN Submarine (Tamiya)
1/350 USS Lexington CV-16 (Trumpeter Yorktown/Essex)
1/350 USS Stout DDG-55 (Trumpeter Arleigh Burke)
1/200 USS Arizona BB-39 (Trumpeter)
1/350 USS Texas BB-35 (Iron Shipwright)


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 8:57 am 
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Really enjoying your builds. Great bit-making technique!

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 8:58 pm 
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Location: Mount Vernon, WA USA
Thank you all for the encouraging comments; I haven't been able to get a lot done this week, most of my time has been "researching" the Bunker Hill. Seems that this ship is considerably more "unique" than I had originally thought. I've spent an inordinate amount of time with the FWD port hanger level sponson. Unlike most of the Essex's CV-17 did not have the half-round gun-tubs and had her 40mm quads set back. I've made a new sponson...but like many of the Bunker Hill’s pictures the photographic evidence is either tough to find or varies based on the period. I think there’s suppose to be a MK-51 director just fwd of the quad mounts and one above in the catwalks.
Attachment:
TICO_Hill0045.jpg
TICO_Hill0045.jpg [ 16.55 KiB | Viewed 1154 times ]
As soon as I commit…someone will find a clear picture.

Joseph, I was considering doing a Lexington also; having to buy an early AND a late Essex seemed a bit much, but I see you're committed :thumbs_up_1: and I will like to see that build.

Sorry I don't have more. I've been fitting decks and filling gaps, not much to show. I have really done a lot of research on the Tico and feel pretty good about my direction there. I have to admit though the Bunker Hill has caught me off guard a little with all of her variations compared to the conventional Essex modifications.

Thanks again!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 8:00 pm 
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Location: Mount Vernon, WA USA
I started working on my FWD Port 40mm Gallery and committed to putting the MK-51 Director as shown.
Attachment:
CV-17_FWDPORT_GAL-m.JPG
CV-17_FWDPORT_GAL-m.JPG [ 127.66 KiB | Viewed 993 times ]

Attachment:
Bunker-Hill-CV17_01.jpg
Bunker-Hill-CV17_01.jpg [ 77.58 KiB | Viewed 993 times ]

I believe the other is adjacent the MK-51 for the 40mm just aft of the 5”/38 just above in the catwalks.

Pictures of the Bunker Hill post repair seem to show this moved up into the catwalks just aft near the 20mm’s. It also appears that the angled portion was tapered up to I presume make the area “less wet”. See the comparison:
Attachment:
Bunker-Hill-CV17_02.jpg
Bunker-Hill-CV17_02.jpg [ 191.81 KiB | Viewed 993 times ]


Anyhow I’ll probably now find conclusive evidence that I have completely blown this…now that I’m finished…

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