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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 2:51 pm 
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As expected, the first weatheing attempt was not sucessful. With intention to simulate the paint fading, I used just too intense white color filter. Hence I had to re-spray the hull and let the paint cure before the next attempt.

In the meantime I have installed ladders/stairs on a backside of the superstructure. Sure, there should be connecting holes in the platforms but I had no idea how to make them nicely.


Attachments:
Component_Superstructure_F_2_low.jpg
Component_Superstructure_F_2_low.jpg [ 101.66 KiB | Viewed 1332 times ]

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2016 11:31 pm 
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Very, very nice build! :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: I never thought these Pearl harbour BBs are this nice, though! Might want to grab myself 1/350 versions someday...if Trumpeter would ever release them...

Aop

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2016 2:23 am 
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Thank you very much, Aop!

The second weathering attempt had better results. I decided to apply rather subtle effects in order not let the battleship look "like a rusty tugboat", as Mr Griffith mentioned. As the weathering is now applied just on the starboard side of the hull, the rest of the ship awaits.


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Component_Hull_Starboard_Wth_1_low.jpg
Component_Hull_Starboard_Wth_1_low.jpg [ 85.23 KiB | Viewed 1241 times ]
Component_Hull_Starboard_Wth_2_low.jpg
Component_Hull_Starboard_Wth_2_low.jpg [ 80.24 KiB | Viewed 1241 times ]

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2016 3:08 am 
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Nice weathering! It depends on what the ship actually looked like at the time you are depicting. The Maryland wasn't too dirty in 1945, so you did well. :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2016 6:17 am 
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Thank you for nice words, Aop. I know there is still a huge room for improvement but this is definitively pushing me forward.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2016 7:55 am 
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Analogous weathering pattern applied to the port side of the hull.


Attachments:
Component_Hull_Port_Wth_1_low.jpg
Component_Hull_Port_Wth_1_low.jpg [ 62.83 KiB | Viewed 1180 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2016 6:30 am 
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Just to have an idea how the plain wooden deck would look like. Despite I have still not decided if I'll let it this way (with some weathering), I am inclining myself towards a faded 20-B Deck Blue version.


Attachments:
Component_Hull_Wooden_Deck_1_low.jpg
Component_Hull_Wooden_Deck_1_low.jpg [ 141.51 KiB | Viewed 1094 times ]
Component_Hull_Wooden_Deck_2_low.jpg
Component_Hull_Wooden_Deck_2_low.jpg [ 130.24 KiB | Viewed 1094 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 14, 2016 7:14 am 
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Extremely clean and detailed build in this scale; looks absolutely great! Can't wait to see the finished product. :thumbs_up_1:

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 3:14 pm 
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Despite not seen clearly, I have applied the same black, white and umbra filters to all the upper structures (but to a lesser extent, of course). In the meantime I have shaped the first batch of railing, just to get used to work with it.


Attachments:
Component_Hull_Wooden_Deck_3_low.jpg
Component_Hull_Wooden_Deck_3_low.jpg [ 149.17 KiB | Viewed 1012 times ]
Component_Superstructure_Rail_1_low.jpg
Component_Superstructure_Rail_1_low.jpg [ 132.97 KiB | Viewed 1012 times ]

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2016 1:07 pm 
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Excellent work. It's coming together so nicely.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 27, 2016 2:25 pm 
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It looks fantastic! Excellent job! :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:



Bob Pink. :wave_1:


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 4:59 am 
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Thank you very much, guys. The work is far from excellent but I've learnt a lot what to do (and more often, what not to).

I tried to attach the railing using the method described by David Griffith and Jim Baumann (tiny strips of a masking tape for a pre-positioning and then fixing with a diluted PVA glue) and it works superbly.


Attachments:
Component_Superstructure_Rail_2_low.jpg
Component_Superstructure_Rail_2_low.jpg [ 101.61 KiB | Viewed 928 times ]
Component_Superstructure_Rail_4_low.jpg
Component_Superstructure_Rail_4_low.jpg [ 104.12 KiB | Viewed 911 times ]

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 3:36 am 
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A preview of the superstructure backside. As of now, it is still just dry fitting.


Attachments:
Component_Superstructure_F_4_low.jpg
Component_Superstructure_F_4_low.jpg [ 115.17 KiB | Viewed 894 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 12:09 pm 
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A forward sneak peek of the superstructure. Apart from the cage mast, the final state will yet include four whip antennas, a twin Oerlikon mount and several Mk 51 gun directors. But this should provide an overall impression.

I should focus on a little more weathering. This is way too sterile.

Edit: Picture change (less blurred; side view with the Oerlikon twin included)


Attachments:
Component_Superstructure_F_6_low.jpg
Component_Superstructure_F_6_low.jpg [ 105.39 KiB | Viewed 786 times ]
Component_Superstructure_F_8_low.jpg
Component_Superstructure_F_8_low.jpg [ 92.46 KiB | Viewed 786 times ]

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Last edited by Daytona675R on Fri Sep 02, 2016 6:06 am, edited 4 times in total.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 1:04 pm 
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Ha - caught you out there!

Using that 6" matchstick again!

:big_grin:

Cheers, Jabb

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 6:22 am 
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Jabberwock wrote:
Ha - caught you out there!

Using that 6" matchstick again!

:big_grin:

Cheers, Jabb


My deception has been smashed, i suppose :-)

By the way, these 3DMP Oerlikons are really awesome. I was afraid they might be either little cumbersome, or fragile. Boy, I was wrong. Carl did an amazing job (as always).

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 8:19 am 
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Daytona675R wrote:
I should focus on a little more weathering. This is way too sterile.


Would love some photos of you DOING the weathering....

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 11:41 am 
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Martin, you mean I should try to capture the method / technique?

If yes, I may try. However, as I mentioned, I weathered the hull using a method described by David Griffith in his "Ship Models from Kits." (that he calls "filtering"). I can describe my steps here if you wish / are not familiar with Mr Griffith's concept (?).

If your post was meant to notice that no obvious weathering is visible on the superstructure...that's what I completely agree with and what I want to (slightly) change :-D

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 11:56 am 
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Daytona675R wrote:
Martin, you mean I should try to capture the method / technique?

If yes, I may try. However, as I mentioned, I weathered the hull using a method described by David Griffith in his "Ship Models from Kits." (that he calls "filtering"). I can describe my steps here if you wish / are not familiar with Mr Griffith's concept (?).

If your post was meant to notice that no obvious weathering is visible on the superstructure...that's what I completely agree with and what I want to (slightly) change :-D


Yes, some photos as you go along would be great. Interested in how you do it -your weathering is very good.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 12:44 pm 
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MartinJQuinn wrote:
Yes, some photos as you go along would be great. Interested in how you do it -your weathering is very good.


Thank you, Martin, I appreciate it very much. Really. As for a noob, it is really refreshing.

To your point - I will try to describe my approach using words at first, as it is rather a process. If a specific step will need a picture, no problem with that. Once again, the full credit goes to David Griffith, I am only following his instructions. As the weathering effects are noticeable on the hull, I will describe what I've done there.

So, the "filtering":

1.) I applied a gloss acrylic coat over the hull (Gunze GX100 thinned to ratio 1:4 (paint : thinner)). Mr Griffith uses the Future but it is out of reach here in Czech Rep. I don't think it is really necessary for the filtering itself but the gloss surface will be a must for a proper application of the pin-wash (see step 10).
2.) A tiny amount of a black oil paint (a Czech brand Umton; however I don't think the brand really matters) was heavily thinned with a turpentine (or more precisely, with an odourless turpentine substitute; a German brand Lukas) to a ratio around 1:15 to 1:20 (paint : thinner)
3.) I worked with a soft synthetic flat brush, size 4. (a German brand Marabu Fino). The brush was dipped into the mixture, most of it was then removed using a paper towel (Mr Griffith suggests a lint-free cloth instead). The brush remained only damp.
4.) Random rather swift than slow vertical strokes were then applied on the hull. No obvious visual effect (a black color) of the stroke was to be seen (if yes, then the mixture was insufficiently thinned). Just almost unnoticeable. In no case I tried to apply the strokes on the whole hull surface. Only around 50% of the hull was covered. I damped the brush about each tenth stroke or so.
5.) Once the first batch of the filtering dried (it dries really quickly), the second round was done. Then third, then fourth. Still randomly, always just on about 50% of the hull.
6.) As a result, some places of the hull have been covered four times, some three times, some twice, once or not at all. The surface started to look...unevenly.
7.) Then basically the same process with a white paint (a titanium white). It should represent fading, effects of the water, salt etc. However, there were two differences from the above described procedure. Firstly, the thinning was even more intense. I would say it would be like 1:30 (or maybe even 1:40). The reason is obvious, the white is much more noticeable on the 5-N base colour than black. When I started with the same thinning ratio as for the black...after the first round I ended with a ship that looked like a zebra. Seriously :-). I had to respray the hull and start again. Secondly, when I was removing the mixture from the brush, I sometimes tried to separate its hairs to two or three "blocks"; each stroke then produced several "marks" (as it can be seen here). I repeated the "random-stroke" process several times, just as with the black color. Some strokes were made with the thin "side" of the flat brush. It all resulted in the hull covered by white marks of a various intensity and width.
8.) Then the brown (a burnt umber) that should represent effects of a rust. The thinning ratio was less intense, around 1:10. In this case, I specifically picked the places I wanted to apply the filter; I focused mainly on the bow, "stumps" on the hull etc. And I used rather the "side" of the flat brush.

This is basically it. The same principle should be used on the superstructure etc.

The next steps are yet to be done.

10.) What Mr Griffith calls a "pin-wash" - a precise application of a really tiny amount of a quite thinned black oil paint into places where shadows are to be emphasized. Using the smallest possible round brush (like 00 or 000) and letting the capillary effect do the rest.
11.) Dry brushing.
12.) Finally, a matt coat.

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