The Ship Model Forum

Hi Jason:

I have this kit as well, but for now, I have started on Rodney. I am using your "Nellie" build as a point of reference. I am refraining from getting the PONTOS set. As a previous poster wrote, it is insanely intense, (paraphrase). The kit offers a decent amount of PE to make a decent looking model. With some added "doodads," drilling out the gun barrels etc., I think it will turn out just fine. On the downside, Trumpeter offers no funnel internals. I wish you could just get stuff you needed rather than all of that stuff. It will test the scratchbuilding skills in some areas to be sure. I will be following along with your Hood build as well as I know it will be another outstanding journey of modeling excellence.

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Mark
Master Gunnery Sergeant USMC (Ret.)
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

On the bench:

1/200 USS Enterprise, CV-6

"If you want logistics, join the Army. Marines make do." 1Lt. Nate Fick, Generation Kill

Joking aside, Jason's builds are pretty epic and even the PE that Trumpy does offer in their ship kits is enough to give me quite a lot of grief, to say nothing of the lack of my own scratchbuilding skills. As for resin parts...yeah, let's not go there. I guess what I'm trying to say is that just from seeing your progress builds, it's clear you've got the skills to make an excellent model without splurging on ginormous aftermarket detail sets.

Looking forward to more updates, Jason!

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Sean Nash, ACG (aircraft camo gestapo)

On the ways:
1/200 Trumpeter HMS Nelson
1/700 Tamiya USS Yorktown CV-5

In the stash:
1/35 Italiari PT-109
1/35 Tamiya "Pibber" Patrol Boat
1/350 Trumpeter USS Yorktown CV-10

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Mark
Master Gunnery Sergeant USMC (Ret.)
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

On the bench:

1/200 USS Enterprise, CV-6

I'm also starting the Hood/Pontos build, I think the putty fill is an awesome idea... going to be watching this build very closely, I also hope to add my own build log as well, the Hood society details for the trumpeter kit is a must, I've poured through the reference books, there is so much that the Pontos kit adds that will do me just fine, but it was a shock to see how... "odd" the plates looked on the hull, that I too am going to have to address this issue as well... can't wait to see your final hull.

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Adrian (AKA Build Build)

Thanks everyone, no pics this week as I didn't have much time to work on the Hood, but I did manage to knock out the starboard bow portholes, so still making progress.

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-Jason Channell

Current Project: 1/200 Bismarck

Well, here is my beautiful lady...
Going to build her as 1941... I've built the 1/600 airfix kit as a test... I really think the grey recommend on the paint chart is too dark, all photos and images they grey looks quite light, my reference box also is a lighter grey than what is recommended....

Dam she's big.

Once my pontos kit arrives, I'll begin my video build log.

Hope the putty filling is working out, sadly I'm not brave enough.

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Adrian (AKA Build Build)

It was Home Fleet Grey, which was dark. Not all photos and images look light. You need to sift through and find all the photos of her in 507C before the war and throw them away as they're not relevant. She was in Home Fleet Grey from 1939 to 1941. Home Fleet Grey was often referred to in official documentation as "Dark Grey (Home Fleet)".

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James Duff
Sovereign Hobbies Ltd
http://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk

Current build:
HMS Imperial D09 1/350
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=167151

I have to agree she was definitely painted in 507B during the Bismarck confrontation. More photos of her exist in the lighter grey 507C, but to be historically accurate it has be the darker grey with a blueish tinge to it, including her blast bags. IMHO she looked better in light grey though.

Bill

I know this is off topic and don't want to steal the thread but; do you have any info if Rodney was in this same paint as Hood during this time frame?

Thanks

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Mark
Master Gunnery Sergeant USMC (Ret.)
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

On the bench:

1/200 USS Enterprise, CV-6

Ambitious!

I'm just going build mine from the box.

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Thomas E. Johnson

http://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasEJohnson

Yes it was

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James Duff
Sovereign Hobbies Ltd
http://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk

Current build:
HMS Imperial D09 1/350
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=167151

Alrighty then, Thanks.

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Mark
Master Gunnery Sergeant USMC (Ret.)
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

On the bench:

1/200 USS Enterprise, CV-6

I have just started my build using the Pontos set and have a question. The instruction sheet page 3 tells you
to remove all, or most, of the raised detail on the fore deck in order to lay the wood deck. There is a steel
fret, number code 1178, which i am assuming is a template only, its purpose i presume is to make sure the
haws pipe openings are removed in precisely the correct position. To affix this fret to the deck would result in
a raised edge under the wood deck. Have i missed something or is this a template only. My aging grey matter
is a little bit confused. By the way, removing all or most of the deck features is a little bit daunting, with great care
needed to avoid causing "dings" to other details that are to remain.

Yeah, it's a template to help redo the replacement resin deck hawsepipes.

An easy way (for me anyway) to approach the removal of deck molding is to grind it off with a round cutter, then clean up with a chisel xacto blade.

I haven't gotten any further on my build; life is busy for me this time of year and I've been spending my limited free time on other hobbies, but I hope to get more done on Hood soon. I also just received my Pontos extra funnel fret; it should make fixing that kit error go smooth and easy.

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-Jason Channell

Current Project: 1/200 Bismarck

Thanks Jason. Pretty obvious really, but just wanted be 100%. As for removing the deck details - you are
right to use a chisel blade plus it gave me an excuse to dust off my Dremel. Also, got my extra funnel fret
a few months ago, so am good to go. Still scary though, cutting and grinding all of that detail off the decks !!
Tim

Hi All,
looking for some advice, I'm building the 1/200 hood, and I am looking for an acrylic paint that matches WW2 Royal Navy anti fouling red, I really prefer tamiya paints but unless I mix it, tamiya does not come close... Any suggestions for a paint, or the mix ratio for Tamiya

I'm build her as 1937, so I'm using the lighter grey, and the tamiya tire black for the boot, as it's not as black as black and shows a little wear... But it's the hull red I really need, there are lots of paints out there that say "Hull Red" but a really don't match what I've seen of RN anti fouling red...
much appreciated.
Adrian Ward

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Adrian (AKA Build Build)

Jumping way ahead to Trumpeter's instruction's Step 46, I have a question. Having spent 41 years driving aircraft through the sky with the air force, my forte is certainly not ships so please forgive me if I am off on an erroneous tangent. Anyway, with respect to parts B24 and B19 in step 46 could someone confirm the orientation of those parts. I have a feeling that they should be on opposite sides pointing in the opposite direction. Are they not navigation lights and should they not face forward??? But then, maybe I'm wrong and Trumpeter is right.

By jingo... you have a point... it's late here in Australia, but I'll check on my details here and let you know.

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Adrian (AKA Build Build)

This is not a guaranteed resource... But this was a 3D image I found of the Hood... DOES look like the instructions in step 46 that parts b19 and b24 are in fact the wrong way round...

https://youtu.be/YnzlkfKivpw
[youtube]https://youtu.be/YnzlkfKivpw[/youtube]

I have email the hood sociacty asking them for there input

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Adrian (AKA Build Build)

I've found a photo of HMS Hood circa 1924... Trumpeter has the port and starboard nav lights the wrong way round...

I've found two photo's of hoods main bridge... The nav lights ARE THE WRONG WAY ROUND

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Adrian (AKA Build Build)