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PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 9:55 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 12:25 pm
Posts: 87
On the subject of big funnel/small funnel, I've posted my method of attaining two large funnels over in the Manufacturers' chat column on the Hood. It worked for me.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 9:06 am 
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The picture shows my two same sized funnels. As described over in the manufacturer's chat site, as long as you have purchased an extra sheet #5, the task is relatively easy. First tape the two large funnel halves together, place it over a piece of 30 thou plastic card and carefully draw the interior profile of the inside bottom of the funnel on the card in order to make a template for the inside circumference of the future funnels. Cut out the templates. Make two. Then simply mismatch the funnel halves (pair each large funnel half with the opposite small funnel half), cut the small funnel half vertically in the middle where it is flat, glue the three parts together using the afore mentioned template for alignment. Once dry, get some appropriately sized plastic strip to fill the remaining gap. The end result can then be wrapped with sheet 5's brass sheath. As for the base and funnel cap, use the same sized plastic strip to expand each. Clear as mud? It worked for me. In the picture, the reason the white expansion strip does not show all the way up is because I primed part with Mr. Surfacer grey primer.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 9:42 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 24, 2010 10:46 am
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Location: Pasadena, Maryland USA
For anyone interested, Sovereign Hobbies has the Extra Fret #5 available again, as of 1039am 10/12/2017. No idea how many there are.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 2:15 pm 
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Hi Jason and crew. While waiting for the Mr Surfacer to dry on the hull, I started playing with the sprues and looking at the egg shaped conning tower. Jason, thank you for posting what you have done. My hesitation on correcting the shape lays with the gaps that are going to be created with the wood deck. What are everyone's idea's on this issue, bearing in mind this is my first use of a stick-on wood deck. Regards Pete.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 10:44 am 
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Location: Salt Lake City, USA
europapete wrote:
Hi Jason and crew. While waiting for the Mr Surfacer to dry on the hull, I started playing with the sprues and looking at the egg shaped conning tower. Jason, thank you for posting what you have done. My hesitation on correcting the shape lays with the gaps that are going to be created with the wood deck. What are everyone's idea's on this issue, bearing in mind this is my first use of a stick-on wood deck. Regards Pete.


My plan is to "borrow" some pieces of the shelter deck that won't be easy to see and replace those with the scrap from outside the laser-cut areas of the wood deck. I am gonna have to carefully cut out individual planks to work it into the rest of the deck and hopefully end up with a seamless appearance.

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Current Project: 1/200 Bismarck


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 9:00 am 
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SovereignHobbies
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Location: Aberdeenshire, Scotland, UK
PHANTO68 wrote:
For anyone interested, Sovereign Hobbies has the Extra Fret #5 available again, as of 1039am 10/12/2017. No idea how many there are.


We're nearly out now (they go fast) but we should have another 20 on the way soon.

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Sovereign Hobbies Ltd
http://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk

Current build:
HMS Imperial D09 1/350
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=167151


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 6:16 pm 
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I’ve posted this question in other dialogues and will repeat it here. On page two of the instructions the deck schematic on the right shows the positions of the various lockers. Unfortunately there are four rectangles depicted in brown on the paper copy and in grey on the digital copy of the instructions that are not identified. There are one each on either side of the breeze way and one each smaller rectangle inboard of the bitts. Any idea what they are?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2017 3:41 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2017 2:15 am
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My replacement fret 5 arrived today, many thank sovereign hobbies.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2017 12:06 pm 
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Regarding my above question regarding unidentified parts on page 2 of the Pontos instructions, well, I found the answer. The four parts are 'ventilation trucks' and are provided in the kit rather than by Pontos which is why there are no Pontos reference numbers. Sorry for the bother.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 5:14 pm 
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Location: Salt Lake City, USA
Got a small update for y'all...

My next objective was to work on the hawsepipes; I ran into annoying issue that I am still trying to work out...

First, the Pontos instructions call for removing almost all of the molded deck detail, including replacing the deck side of the hawsepipes with more accurately shaped/located resin pieces:

Image

I started by grinding of the majority of the raised molding with my trusty dremmel and a cutting bit. Then I used a combination of a chisel xacto blade and sanding block to level the surface.

Image


Image

Next I used the wooden deck to mark and cut out the new hawsepipe holes:

Image

Pontos includes a PE template for this but I had already obliterated the template "landmarks" and wanted to make sure I still got 'em in the right place.

I first thought the resin hawsepipe pieces simply replaced the molded hawsepipes with the wooden deck installed around it afterwards but as it turns out they are intended to be installed overlapping the wooden deck. This complicates things for me because I want to add the entire pipe interior as it would have been on the real ship...

Image

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... so I have two choices, either modify the resin pipe pieces and wooden deck so I can install the deck after forming the pipes or install the deck earlier than I had planned, then mask it off. Decisions, decisions. :eyes_spinning:

Another thought on the deck itself... it is well known that Pontos decks often have a nasty habit of unsticking and lifting after a while. A lot of modelers blame the adhesive Pontos uses for the stick-on decks but I think it's really the Trumpeter plastic (also notorious for poor paint adhesion in it's OOTB form) plus the nature of the molded deck itself which cases the problem (aggravating natural wood expansion/contraction and causing the deck to debond).

If you look closely at the molded deck surface, you can see it's molded with rounded and deeply outlined "planks"... this is definitely a less than ideal bonding surface.

Image

In an attempt to get a better surface I decided to fill the molded plank lines with Squadron putty and sand them smooth:

Image

It's not as labor intensive as it sounds but it's extra work that will hopefully give me some insurance against the deck lifting up in the future. Other modelers have had good results by neutralizing the deck stickyness and gluing them down with another adhesive; I imagine that fills up the deck lines and accomplishes the same thing. Whatever works I suppose!

As we move into winter I hope to have more time to devote to this project... guess we'll see how it goes! :wave_1:

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Current Project: 1/200 Bismarck


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 3:10 am 
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SovereignHobbies
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Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2015 9:09 am
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Location: Aberdeenshire, Scotland, UK
Nice work!

My personal best deck results have been the epitome of laziness, as is my approach to everything. I merely ran beads of medium CA onto the kit deck and applied the wooden deck on top and give it a gentle rub to spread the glue under it.

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Sovereign Hobbies Ltd
http://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk

Current build:
HMS Imperial D09 1/350
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=167151


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 3:34 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2012 6:19 pm
Posts: 581
Location: Finland
I've had great success of just using water when attaching pontos decks. Just like their instructions say!
So far not a single problem on decks lifting up!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 3:47 am 
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I usually like a very rough surface to glue things too.... depending on the glue type that is. CA has a tendency to be pushed to the side of the part with no glue beneath it.... and I also glued my (styrene) decks for Hood to a puttied layer and sometimes the putty has a tendency to delaminate (a cause for joy :smallsmile: )


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 7:51 am 
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Morning all. Jason, I was just playing with the hawspipes yesterday! I have thinned out the hull insides between the resin tops and the exits in the hull, the thick plasic gets in the way of placing tubes in there. I also have bevelled the exits up and back towards the tops. I am going to glue the tubes to the resin parts and smooth the join, fit the deck then fit the resin parts with the tubes and finish the join at the exit hole. ( this sounds way more complex than it actually is lol). I am all ears for any other ideas. Regards Pete.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 3:13 pm 
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Location: Idaho, United States
Channell wrote:
Got a small update for y'all...


It's not as labor intensive as it sounds but it's extra work that will hopefully give me some insurance against the deck lifting up in the future. Other modelers have had good results by neutralizing the deck stickyness and gluing them down with another adhesive; I imagine that fills up the deck lines and accomplishes the same thing. Whatever works I suppose!

As we move into winter I hope to have more time to devote to this project... guess we'll see how it goes! :wave_1:



You have been very busy indeed!

That's a big deck.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 10:57 pm 
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Hi You'll,
I've had a problem with wooden decks lifting in the past, not just Pontos, but MK, and not just on Trumpeter kits either, I do think the idea of sanding down the ridges on the formed deck is possibly the way to, and it makes sense, but rather than filling the deck with whatever medium is your choice, I think I am just going to go with the option of sanding the decks flat.

I'm doing this for a couple of reasons.... One the adhesion properties, and Two thinning out the deck, because just sitting the wooden deck on top of the existing deck means it's going to be raised a little. Now considering this is 1/200 it would mean the deck height is going to be slightly out of scale, please dont take this as me being a rivet counter, but it's something that has bugged me in the past with my 1/600 ships and some of my 1/350 ships.

Once I've finished the Hood (9 months away at least), I'm going to tackle a couple of other 1/200 ships... which one, I'm not sure at this stage, but I am learning a heck of a lot on this build, and I have to say hats off to Mr Pontos, the etch set is Very good, I don't know what MK detail set are like, BUT! the deck sets for my 1/600 fleet are really good.

I love the solution for the funnels, and think its an awesome and simple, however scalewarships have a kit for the replacement rear funnel, I think its about 20 Quid (I don't have the pound sign on my keyboard).

I'm going to be following very closely mind the hawser solution, as I'd like to be able to follow this as well, bit surprised that Trumpeter and Pontos did not do more with this...

anyway, that my 2c worth, got some etch to bend and paint..

Cheer and all the best

Big Build

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 2:41 am 
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Bravo Channel for your fortitude in continuing on so effectively with this behemoth of a ship build! :thumbs_up_1:

But ist soooo big ! need a biiig glass case...

best wishes

JIM B :wave_1:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 12:49 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2009 12:57 am
Posts: 351
OK gents, have been very busy with my own project, just taking note of all the comments. I decided to start my
own build by constructing as many of the individual parts as separate builds. I have now completed all the guns,
range finders, radar, plus most of the deck structures and found most went together really well. However, (Pontos
take note) i found with some of the smaller and delicate parts, the brass was very soft and had a tendency to break
or snap off. With a large collection of stash and leftovers i was able to scratch build myself out of trouble. Having said
that, i must congratulate Pontos for the excellent design of this upgrade. With regard to the wood deck, i sanded the
entire deck to rough it up a bit and then painted it with a sealer. Using off cuts to practice, i found that the deck stuck
like the proverbial to a blanket. A chisel blade was unable to lift it.
Tim.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 8:51 am 
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hmm.... thanks Tim, what kind of sealer? just a regular enamel/acrylic varnish so you had a nice flat surface or did you leave the kit deck plank grooves in? Regards Pete


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 8:56 am 
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I am going the other way on mine, getting the hull done first. Do the big long chore early while my enthusiasm for the project is very high! lol. Then the smaller interesting details will keep the mojo going for the rest of the project, as I see this taking a couple of years to do.


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