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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 11:12 am 
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Location: North Lincolnshire
Looking good Pete........you're motoring now!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 12:57 pm 
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Phoenix673 wrote:
Looking good Pete........you're motoring now!




I was just about to do the next update and saw your comment, so I first say 'Thank you'..:)

Ok guys....I mentioned that I would be doing some soldering which I most certainly have been, took some time but have now done the various fittings which sit under the shelterdeck. I recall noting in another build thread a comment about the Pontos PE being a little delicate, I would concur with this on some of the items..I've barely touched the Pontos kit to date but part number 445 has very weak folds on the ends. One of them was falling apart as I removed it from the etch so beware those who follow. I got over this by carefully folding the end to it's position and quickly soldering it along the fold, I did each side separately before folding the rest of the part. First picture for tonight shows one of each of the parts concerned finished ready for painting.

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And here are all of the fittings required for under the shelterdeck...they were first given a coat of etch primer before having their top coat of 507B, the large bollards seen were later sprayed black.

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Two pictures to show the fittings in after being glued to the deck., first an overall view..

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And finally a close up, sorry about the quality the light was low, if I can remember, I'll try to get a better shot later in daylight.. note that I have made a start on the plimsoll line, a couple of things to note, for '41' the colour changes from white to black above the waterline. Now Pontos include sets of both colours in their kit but they don't go high enough and they have a numeral which doesn't exist...they have 'XXXX' which should be 'XL' so for now I have only done the white and will give some thought to the black numeral's later.

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What's next?...I may finish off the hawser'sand add the metal 'cable' plates to the deck once they are painted which I believe is a 'dark grey' colour. I can also make a start on the framework under the shelterdeck having received my plastruct order yesterday.. Lot's to keep me busy...:)

Thank's for looking in guys...

Pete


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 8:46 am 
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Hi guys

I was going to show these two pictures in next weeks update but decided to show them now as there may be a few for the next update. These pictures concern the supporting pillars under the shelterdeck, I had shown a picture before that covered the inner pillar positions but the light was bad so not very clear...
First picture shows my method of getting the holes in the deck below in their correct positions, I'm lucky here as I have bigger machinery, in this case a mill which allows me to do such things with relative ease but I guess anyone could do the same using a small pillar drill. Before drilling the holes I needed to first glue the 'H' longitudinal beams that the pillars sit under. Having already drilled the holes into the shelterdeck and being happy with their positions I used these holes as reference points for where to position the beams placing them directly over (under) the holes and gluing in place. I'll show this in the update next week once I have fitted all of the 'X' axis 'I' beams. You can see in the picture that after lining the hole up for the mill I carefully drilled through the 'H' beam below and continued down to the forecastle deck underneath, I set the mill so that each hole in said deck only went in a short depth for the pillars to sit in. This is important as I intend to include the white centers on these pillars when painted and need to try and keep this white section uniform throughout. A word of advice for any who wish to do something similar, when drilling in fine plastic use the slowest speed and withdraw to clean the drill bit after going through the first deck before continuing to the next, if you don't you may find the lower holes are too big as plastic melts and may stick to the drill in such circumstances making the lower hole larger.

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The second picture to give some idea of how things are looking, the pillars (brass rod) have deliberately been left over length, I will cover my reasons in a later update probably when the shelterdeck is glued permanently in place.

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More soon

Pete


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 4:34 pm 
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Good evening chaps/chapeses

I have more photo's than usual tonight, there may be another update before the weekend if I get some painting done tomorrow but I'll show what I've done so far this week to safe myself from too much typing in one go..:)

Last update I showed the pillars being drilled and mentioned that I first fitted the 'H' frame girders underneath so that I could drill through them for the pillars to sit under. I have now fitted the 'I' frame cross pieces, I have tried to follow the prototype and give some feel to how things looked under the shelterdeck. The first picture for tonight shows the state of play so far, it took a bit of working out to allow clearance for the superstructures that sit between the two decks. I haven't fitted 'I' beams everywhere as they can't be seen but I have tried to cover those areas that are easily seem. As best as I can tell and going by dimensions given in the AOTS the 'H' and 'I' frames are pretty much to scale, you guys can judge for yourselves in this picture.

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Now, of course the thickness of the deck is way over scale so this frame work sits lower than it should. However when I test fitted the shelterdeck to see how things were looking I was very happy with the overall impression. The 'I' beam that go between the outer 'H' beam and the outer edge of the deck have been tapered so that they blend in to the decks edge. next picture shows how it's taking shape...

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Next job was to do the various parts that needed to be fitted before I can paint the shelterdeck, now I probably do things different to most in so far as I like to use natural edges for when there's a colour change. What I mean by that is that I try to avoid needing to mask areas where there's a colour change if there are separate pieces that can do the job much better for me. For example the wooden deck and the PE metal deck sections for the shelterdeck, by leaving these off, spraying them before fitting I can achieve the best/neatest paintwork where deck meets splintershield etc. This has one drawback and that's the parts that sit on top of the metal decks, again these are mainly splintershields so for this reason you won't see the shields fitted before the main painting of the shelterdeck, this includes the rear wall with it's incorporated shield around the rear 4" gun as this sits partly over the wooden deck. Such parts as these will be painted independently and fitted later, hope that makes sense. First thing to determine is the exact position of said decks, most line up with various splintershields and thus are easy to position but the wooden deck needs locating properly first. On looking at the deck and the area around it's outer edge I chose to use the metal deck to locate the forward edge and the two brass strips that are glued on at the rear for the 4" shield to both locate and centralise the deck. Picture shows the deck taped down, with it in this position I glued the two brass strips one either side at the rear.

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The next picture shows the two brass strips that I'll use to line up the wooden deck, it also shows a start being made on the rear walls, as you can see I have pre-drilled the portholes and in the process of using one of them to help line up the first brass section. For the vent I cut out a larger hole so that you the thin vent section is seen, in hindsight I could have done this for all of the windows to reduce the thickness, oh well..too late now. BTW the Admiral's windows are best left alone as there's a large step between inner and outer walls, the plastic is pretty close to what's required so best leave as is. I was going to glue these with superglue but soon thought better and did all the brass sections with epoxy due to the amount of handling that is still required.

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I include this picture just to show the first two parts fitted..

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The other side with windows,doors and davit supports fitted, I will leave the accommodation ladders until much later.

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Here we have the boom clasps and swivel bracket fitted, I'm not too happy with Pronto's method of fitting these, they supply a template which is good for positioning the slip eye but not so good for the clasps which I'm assuming are supposed to be fitted using the template for positioning, not very practical. A bigger problem is the fact that the clasps are fitted edge on? not a good method for longevity at such an early stage. They could of course be left till later but I'm not a big fan of gluing parts to a painted surface, I just hope that I can get this sub assembly painted and fitted when it will have relative safety without loosing any of the small parts beforehand....

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One more picture, I show the under section again as I have added some pipework following photo's, I could add more but where do you stop? there's more pipes/wiring, hammock hangers etc, etc that could be fitted if one so wished...

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Tomorrow I hope to get the shelterdeck sprayed and left for a day before gluing in place with epoxy, before I do that I still have the vents to add, which first need modifying, or at least the rear does before fitting.

Thank's for looking in guy's...more soon..:)

Pete


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2018 3:15 pm 
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Cracking job to date Pete.......your work is proving to be a real source of info for when I eventually get around to starting my Hood. Keep posting mate!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2018 6:23 pm 
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Hi guys..

I managed to get what I had planned for today done so will update to finish off the week, in fact I got further than expected and have now fitted the sheldeck after painting, I used 'quick drying thinner which does speed things up a little.
First up was the modified vents, the forward pair I just cut out the embossed grill and fitted some scrap PE from the kit. I did the same to the rear vents but also made them look more like the vent in the first picture.

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It's not easy to see what's going on in that photo, at first I thought the vent had been replaced with the higher dog legged trunking but on closer inspection it looks like this trunking is attached to the original vent sitting slightly behind as seen in the photo. There's certainly two structures clearly seen with the closest looking very much like the vent as supplied in the kit and so I decided to use it and add the trunking behind. I first reduced the height of the kit vent as it wouldn't work if making the trunk look anything like the photo. The reason is that the height between deck and ceiling is much less than the prototype and the reason for that is the deck being so much thicker than scale, naturally the most important measurement for the designer of the kit is the exterior dimension of the deck heights as these are seen from afar, the interior heights are less important and take second place to whats required to actually produce the kit, of course my added frame work only adds to this issue but it was a compromise that I was willing to make..
Next picture shows the vents as I see them before tidying and paint..

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Close up of vents fitted..

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This is the closest that I can get to match the angle of the photo, I have some paintwork to tidy up but it's getting their, next job here will be to paint and fit the pillars.

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Lastly a picture to show the shelterdeck fitted, I dry fitted this a number of times before finally committing to glue making an adjustment here and there, I'm happy with the result, there's a very small gap where the deck angles down the side of the hull to the quarterdeck...I will take care of this and then dust over with some 507B.

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Thanks for looking in guys, more next week...:)

Pete


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2018 5:45 pm 
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You've got a great eye for details. Those supports under the deck are killer and are a great addition. Well done!

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 4:24 pm 
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MartinJQuinn wrote:
You've got a great eye for details. Those supports under the deck are killer and are a great addition. Well done!


thank's Martin..

evening all..

I have been busy over the weekend placing the shelterdeck support pillars and painting/fitting the various metal/wood deck sections, I'm happy with the results and now looking forward to building the sub assemblies and all of the detailed PE.

i have 3 pictures to show, first up is the support pillars which were fitted by placing them through the top hole, a small drop of superglue on the bottom before placing into the lower hole, a sharp tap with a small hammer to ram it home and a larger drop of superglue around the pillar where it poked through the shelterdeck. Once the glue had set the protruding part of the pillar was ground off so it was flush with the deck. This method was used for all but two (one each side) where the pillar comes up within the rear 'UP' splintershields. These were cut to size first and carefully positioned with tweezers. Due to the wide angle lens it looks like the outside pillars are leaning outwards, they aren't, it's just the effect of the wide angle when used in close.

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An overhead view to show the deck layout, the metal deck is made up of 4 main sections, another 4 smaller sections that fit inside the 'UP' shields and lastly the wooden deck section. Care is required to ensure they all line up ( I dry fitted everything first to get a feel of how things fitted) but Pontos have got these spot on, for reference I fitted the two large forward sections first, the two smaller side sections next, the 'UP' sections and lastly the wooden deck, this last part needs extra care as it needs to line up with a number of sections. All metal sections were painted prior to fitting, I painted by hand around the various positioning blocks in the appropriate colour to ensure that no foreign colours showed up around the edge of the decking, as it happens the Pontos fit is so good that this isn't really required, unless of course you don't get the wooden deck spot on, prudence states, paint the surrounds anyway just in case. The other place that needs painting is the area under the 'Admiral's platform', well only if you're modified this part to the correct profile.


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Just for me, I then trimmed the various housings and placed them where they belong, in all a successful few days work.

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It feels like the 'worlds my oyster' now as I can choose from a whole host of parts to do next, I guess that I should get back to the Admiral's platform next although i may fit the 4 stairways that lead down from the shelterdeck first and then the side walls and there supports to finish off the side of the hull......plenty to do...:)

cheers

Pete


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 4:04 pm 
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A little more progress, I have now painted and fitted all of the Bollards, totals are 13 large, 1 mid and 4 small. Next I went back to the admirals platform concentrating on the 4 lowered areas of the side screens along the platform which were there originally for the 'saluting guns' he Hood associations helps greatly here with their various photo's and info about the handrail and it's supports that ran over these lower sections resulting in 4 narrow slots, hope that makes sense.

I started by using tape to mark the lower level of the slots, I left the supports in place although removed a little to allow for the brass rod sitting on top, I also filed down a little more past each slot to give something for the brass rod to sit on. The pictures should show what I'm trying to explain. First shows the slots already for the rails to be fitted, I could have filed down to entire rail and use one piece of brass for the rail, I may still do this if I can't hide the joints.

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And a picture with the brass rod fitted, it still needs cleaning up which I'll do once it has some primer to make things easier to see.

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Lastly a picture to show how the focsle is progressing, I have blended in the joints between hull and hawser openings, I have put the anchors in to check fit but not really visible in this picture, I'll try to show this better later.

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I may continue with the focsle for a while, there's some nice details on this...:)

Pete


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2018 5:26 pm 
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While I could never claim to be achieving the same level of detail as Greenglade, I though I might include a couple of shots of my build which is essentially Trumpeter plus Pontos. The funnels and bridge superstructure aren't glued to the main body yet but every so often I feel the need to dry assemble the components just to reassure myself I'm making progress. The tripod in the bridge superstructure really gave me concern as it didn't look like it was going to fit (which would have been a show stopper) but after several tries I was able to make it all come together. I didn't mount the structure (which is on the table in the foreground) on top of the tripod for the photos as I'm keeping handling of it to a minimum to avoid damage. It does fit and my apologies, having an air force background doesn't offer a wealth of knowledge on things nautical which hopefully excuses my use of "structure". Over in the "Manufacturers and Suppliers" forum I asked about the location of the ship's bells and which lockers should be used by the pompom in the aft bandstand. Builder kindly provided assistance with the bells, however, am still looking for guidance wrt the lockers.Image
Image


Last edited by Grizly on Sun Mar 04, 2018 7:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2018 5:48 pm 
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Evening all....sorry for the lack of updates last week, I've been preoccupied elsewhere...
i stated my intention to continue with the focsle which is what I have been doing, long way to go but I have sorted out the issue with the capstans, or should I say settled on a reasonable compromise. As mentioned I wasn't happy with the capstan on the center-line, or more to the point the metal rubbing strips being equally spaced either side of it's wooden platform which when compared to photo's is wrong..For those who haven't reached this point yet, the two rear capstans , the right hand side is where things begin to go astray, for some reason only known to Trumpeter the right hand capstan is too far to the left, this is easily checked by scaling from the various photo's out there. Now if I had realised this earlier I'd probably have cut off the capstan platform and re-positioned it a few mm further to the right. I printed off all of the photo's available for this area (luckily there are a few) and made a plan of what I was going to do which I'll show here.

Here is the photo that was used mostly for the general layout..note the shape and positions of right-hand capstan bases and the fact that the capstan itself is very much to the right of the base being nearly on it's edge, also there is no gap between the two bases.

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First job was to carefully lift the right hand inner metal plate from it's previously placed wrong position, I then re-shaped the resin capstan base 'RO2 to be more like the photo's for 1941 (this was modified a little more from that seen in this picture), taped the deck to protect it, marked in pencil the new shape for the inner base, cut out the shape with a scalpel and then filled/built up the area with car body filler.

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Here's the next stage after initial shaping and sanding of the capstan base. A tip here, when using car body filler carve the basic shape before the filler has fully cured, this way you can cut through it with a scalpel like butter and get it pretty close to final shape. I did add a little more after this picture to enhance the shape but this is pretty close. I also removed a little from the front fork to match more with the left hand base, it also helped line up the chosen position for the metal plate. I elongated the hole for the capstan and used the kit piece to get an idea of positioning for the various parts.

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And here is where I have got so far, I may add a little more filler to the resin base as it looks odd in this picture, strange how things look when enlarged, it looks fine on the model...:) Anyway, for the center capstan I added a thin piece of plastic to raise it a little, I also reduced the size of the square as it looked too big when compared with photo's, this entailed positioning the 4 pins (for want of a better word) closer in to the centre...I think in all it looks much closer than Trumpeter/Pontos had it. The unpainted parts are only laid in place to check the overall look, I'll glue then once painted.

Image

I'll probably stay with this area for a while, there's a fair bit to do and should keep me occupied for a while...:)

Thanks for looking guys

Pete


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2018 5:56 pm 
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Very nice work Grizly....you threw me for a second, we must have crossed during posts and when I uploaded mine I was confused when seeing your pictures...:) Your Hood is looking ace sir, I wouldn't say mine is any better, yours looks superb... Regarding the bell...I have been trying to find an image which I record seeing some years ago yet for the life of me can't find it, I'm sure that I had seen a picture of 'Hoods' bell suspended at the end of the shelterdeck superstructure in some sort of frame, not the frame in the Pontos kit, this was fixed to the rear wall below the rear 4" gun although the photo may have been from an era before said gun was fitted. If I find anything I will of course pass it on

cheers

Pete


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 12:46 pm 
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Greenglade. Read your comments over in "Manufacturers and Suppliers". WRT the chain lines for the anchor cables, I agree that once separated from the casting blocks they are very fragile. I had a couple break but was able to salvage them with cyano glue. Other issues that I've encountered relate mostly with extremely small and often fragile etch parts. I completely messed up the three pompom sights (part 939) and have my fingers crossed that I can purchase a replacement sheet from Pontos. Then there are the various assemblies on page 13 of the instructions which I'm sure will only be complicated by my shaky right hand and bi-focals - those parts are small. These comments aside, I extremely impressed with the engineering and precision of all the parts. The online instructions that can be magnified have also proven to be extremely beneficial.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 2:51 pm 
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Grizly wrote:
Greenglade. Read your comments over in "Manufacturers and Suppliers". WRT the chain lines for the anchor cables, I agree that once separated from the casting blocks they are very fragile. I had a couple break but was able to salvage them with cyano glue. Other issues that I've encountered relate mostly with extremely small and often fragile etch parts. I completely messed up the three pompom sights (part 939) and have my fingers crossed that I can purchase a replacement sheet from Pontos. Then there are the various assemblies on page 13 of the instructions which I'm sure will only be complicated by my shaky right hand and bi-focals - those parts are small. These comments aside, I extremely impressed with the engineering and precision of all the parts. The online instructions that can be magnified have also proven to be extremely beneficial.



yes...I've not touched the chain lines yet but one has already detached itself from the sprue in pieces, these parts along with many others that are resin really cry out to be cast in white metal. I fear that some may not survive the long build of this model, it's so easy to knock something already placed while trying to attach something else close by, add 'frafile item' to the mix begs for disaster.

Anyway, I have done a little more, basically getting paint on the parts shown last time and fixing to the focsle. I have also added the fairleads (quarterdeck too) , capstans, chain guards,grille over the disused hawser and the empty chain line mounts for said hawser, plus the four pins around the central capstan. Some of the paint needs tidying but that can wait for now.

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that's all to show for tonight, back to grandfather duties for the next couple of days but will try to do a little more before the weekend... I will probably get the soldering iron out again and sort out the various brass fittings for this area, I did look at assembling the fairways but gave up after doing one which then fell apart when gripping with the tweezers...I really hate using glue on PE...:)

More soon guys..

Pete


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 3:51 pm 
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I must be getting old as these small parts take me forever to do..I have added some more detail to the focsle and quarterdeck... cat hooks, wild cats, fire valve, skylight/hatch, hawser fairways for the focsle and the capstan and steering access hatch for the quarterdeck.
Here's the focsle, took me some time to solder up the fairways and their associated support triangular brackets and as for the tiny eyelets on the rectangular hatch which are no more than 0.75mm wide, well getting them soldered on and all running in line was a little taxing on the old eyes and nerves. I must get myself some 'helping hands and a decent set of fine point tweezers. My tweezers on these parts is like using a sledgehammer on a panel pin...lol I can't fit the anchors until I can get some prototypical chain, I'll also than be able to fit the chain lines, if they don't disintegrate any further that is...:)

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Quarterdeck is still pretty bare but I'll show how things are coming on....

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As mentioned before, the camera shows up things that I just can't see with the naked eye or even with the magnifying lens, I may resit certain parts to remove any marks or lumps in the paint, I'll leave this till much later as many things can be hidden with as we call in in the film/tv industry, 'dressing' in this case that will be ropes/cables etc.

cheers

Pete


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 8:07 am 
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Hi Pete!
Just found Your build thread and caught up ,great progress with a monster project! :eyebrows:

Building one Myself at the moment,with the Pontos set as well,I'm a little way behind You at the moment,which is great because I can gather tips (AKA Pinch!) some of Yours, which will be very helpful on My build! (Hope You don't mind? :wave_1: )

I've already started a build log on Britmodeller in the 'Maritime Modelling - Work in Progress' section if You want to see what a hash I'm making of Mine!
(Mods:- I don't know if I'm allowed to post a link to it?...........)

Onward with Your great build and.....

Keep Sticking! Cheers, morty_3333, .........also a Pete!!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 9:05 am 
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morty_3333 wrote:
Hi Pete!
Just found Your build thread and caught up ,great progress with a monster project! :eyebrows:

Building one Myself at the moment,with the Pontos set as well,I'm a little way behind You at the moment,which is great because I can gather tips (AKA Pinch!) some of Yours, which will be very helpful on My build! (Hope You don't mind? :wave_1: )

I've already started a build log on Britmodeller in the 'Maritime Modelling - Work in Progress' section if You want to see what a hash I'm making of Mine!
(Mods:- I don't know if I'm allowed to post a link to it?...........)

Onward with Your great build and.....

Keep Sticking! Cheers, morty_3333, .........also a Pete!!



Hi Pete

Thanks for the kind words, I managed to find your build, very impressive sir...I love the idea for the dust cover, I had planned to get a case by now but not managed it yet, too many other things that need my cash just now, classic car being the biggest culprit. I noticed you are keeping the kit props, I can see why, not so much an issue for me as I plan to build as a 'shipwrights' model so nice lumps of brass fit. I was pleasantly reassured in seeing your 'steam winch' assembly, I hadn't paid these much attention yet, not realising that there was brass/etched parts to add, I'm still not a fan of Pontos using resin for these parts though, far too delicate.
Keep up the good work, she looks great..:)

Pete


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 11:35 am 
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Hi Pete!
Thanks for Your reply,I agree with You about the resin,I've got some damage on the anchor cable stoppers already,should be able to fix,all so had problems with the fire valve,resin valve bodies vanished after assembly,taking the PE handwheels with them! :mad_2:
As for PE assembly, I'm pretty new to it Myself,but also don't like using Cyano.
But I've taken the plunge and bought some solder paint to try,I'd put off getting some because of the cost(HOW MUCH?!!!!),but it should go a long way and be easier to add in tight spots. Not tried it yet,I'm going to practice on some spare etch out of the kit,and I might use it for the breakwaters (last job on the deck fittings list).
I'm making the case with mahogany strips slotted to take the glass,not sure how to go on this,a table for My router is quite an outlay for the amount of use it will get,it might be cheaper to have it done by one of the moulding suppliers online.
Look forward to seeing more progress on Your build!

Keep Sticking! Cheers, Pete


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 5:44 pm 
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morty_3333 wrote:
Hi Pete!
Thanks for Your reply,I agree with You about the resin,I've got some damage on the anchor cable stoppers already,should be able to fix,all so had problems with the fire valve,resin valve bodies vanished after assembly,taking the PE handwheels with them! :mad_2:
As for PE assembly, I'm pretty new to it Myself,but also don't like using Cyano.
But I've taken the plunge and bought some solder paint to try,I'd put off getting some because of the cost(HOW MUCH?!!!!),but it should go a long way and be easier to add in tight spots. Not tried it yet,I'm going to practice on some spare etch out of the kit,and I might use it for the breakwaters (last job on the deck fittings list).
I'm making the case with mahogany strips slotted to take the glass,not sure how to go on this,a table for My router is quite an outlay for the amount of use it will get,it might be cheaper to have it done by one of the moulding suppliers online.
Look forward to seeing more progress on Your build!

Keep Sticking! Cheers, Pete



i lost those two hand-wheels as well, the resin valves survived, I used two PE hand-wheels from the kit to replace those that went flying. Solder paint can be good, I prefer fine 180c electrical solder, if you use 'Bakers Fluid' on the surface that's to be bonded first the solder will flow much easier. As it happens I soldered the center of the front breakwater up this afternoon, looks good, the plastic kit housings fit it very well making it a strong part ready for gluing in place. Tomorrow I'll add the details and then make a start on the two outer sections. I have been quoted for the glass to be cut to size for my case which is very reasonable, I've not decided on base material yet but currently thinking of 25mm MDF, route a lip around the edge, fit suitable wood mouldings around the base and right angle mouldings for the glass corners, then stain to finish, not decided on colour yet. Once I have the model on it's proper base I'll be much more relaxed as the base will then be much larger than the model itself giving some protection, I can fit the screws then too...:)

Pete


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 6:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 12:25 pm
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Here's a tip for when you get to assembling the five unrotating projectile (UP) rocket launcher. When it comes to wrapping Pontos part 857 around the Trumpeter parts F21 -F-23 you run a high probability of messing it up as 857 exceeds the circumference of the combined five Trumpeter parts. I did (messed up 857, that is) and had to revert to using the equivalent Trumpeter etch part PE D-16 which is much the same as the Pontos part 857. If you add 20 thou strips that are slightly narrower than the width of the tubes top and bottom (to allow for the 45 degree corners) you will find (at least I did) that 857 or Trumpeter's part PE D-16 will fit nicely.


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