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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 11:46 am 
Hi Guys,

Just getting into ship modeling and already trying to resolve some fairly big kit issues. I am determined to get the Trumpeter 1/350 South Carolina built (beautiful ship) but I find myself unwilling to accept some hull shape problems. I haven't heard anyone comment on this issue when building this kit. However, many many photos of the real thing and detailed cross sectional plans show the sides of the hull above the water line to be vertical and not sloped outward as on the Trumpeter kit. To be more exact, the plating is actually vertical from about the middle of the superfiring turret at the front of the ship to the aft end of the superstructure. At first, I thought this was nearly unfixable but on reflection and with experimentation I realized I could fix it. Since I will be trying to do hull plating anyway with thin plastic sheet, I figured I could lay this over some ribbing to get the hull curve right. Using evergreen sheet also helps in getting gradual curves without a lot of sanding, as long as I can keep the bracing symmetrical. Here are a few pics of how it looks so far - note the differences between the Trumpeter shape on the starboard side and the adjusted port side. As you can see, I have attached a 1.5 x 2 mm rectangular rod, canted horizontal with a thin piece of rod at the base to support the new plating.I will have to build up the torpedo bulge plate above the water line to match the new shape but it all looks doable. I may also have to beef up the under water torpedo bulge to get everything aligned again. All of this is doable with evergreen sheet and a minimum of putty (I think). In the pics, I have just attached things with masking tape for now as I figure out the contours.

As I said, I am new to ships so maybe I am biting off more than I can chew. I hope not because I have a lot of investment in this project and would hate to stop now. Meanwhile, I am also working on an Aoshima Takao in 1/350 that is much less problematic (lovely kit, actually). So, if I run aground on this I can always take a break on an easier project.

I would appreciate input from guys who have worked on this kit or anyone who does these sorts of fixes. I am curious why this shape issue doesn't come up on the Net when it looks so obvious to me. Looking forward to comments

Colin

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 12:58 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 2:12 pm
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if the areas is flat then use bigger pieces but if the areas are curved then use narrower strips. in this link viewtopic.php?f=59&t=165105 that is how I was able to correct the concave hull of the stern using Revell's 1/429 scale Arizona to do all the OBB's from the Wyoming class to the Colorado class during ww2. did the same for the anti-torpedo bulges on these models that are actually hollow especially the modernized California & currently worked on West Virginia. I usually use 5mm wide .75mm thick plastic strips when working on curvey parts of the hull & wider 1mm thick strips for the flat areas.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 7:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2008 10:22 pm
Posts: 458
Don't forget the bulb at the forefoot. Needs a bit of widening.

Keith


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