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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2019 6:51 am 
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Hello guys, time to embark on a new build as my 1:700 fleet has grown a lot over last few years but 1:350 is elusive.

I decided to do a super detailed battleship, no clue where this lands me because it looks massively complicated.

Here is the starting set (which is about 350-400 dollars give or take):

1. Tamiya Prince of Wales 1:350 vintage kit
2. Pontos Duke of York set for PoW, ca 1943 (so lots of brass and a wooden deck)
3. 3D printed parts list is as follows:
3.1 Main caliber gun houses
3.2 lifeboats for Duke of York
3.3 Carley floats RN
3.4 Searchlights RN
3.5. Radars for DoY
3.6 Flota nets

I plan to build it in assemblies, guns, hull, superstructures, funnels, etc. Paint is going to be royal navy dark grey for hull and light grey for superstructure. I probably use Tamiya or AK Interactive acryllics over Tamiya toxic, I mean lacquer, primer. There is no need to freak out about paint as multiple layers, weathering and clear coat probably gonna change the starting paint color anyway. The deck staining in grey will be the biggest challenge of course... But that is later.

There is going to be plenty of modeling here as the hull itself needs portholes redone, mounted on pedestals, hull plating lines added, and the deck is gonna see everything scraped off it it seems. Lets see how it all pans out, I have a feeling it will be a long build!.

PS. Duke of York is one of those ships that has a fair good bit of history to its name, be it the convoys, seeing Italian fleet surrender, or duking it out ( :heh: )with Scharnhorst where some of the best naval artillery was displayed by the Royal Navy. I plan to have one 1:350 battleship in my collection, hence the big investment into parts, research and I couldnt have found a more interesting yet less overdone subject. Plus, the KGC class with its quads and queens mansion superstructure, and low free-board reminiscent of earlier British battleships makes it a rather handsome ship to display in full hull.

So with that intro out of the way, on to the progress. Appreciate your comments as always!


Attachments:
large_000000 (16).jpg
large_000000 (16).jpg [ 42.52 KiB | Viewed 960 times ]

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Last edited by pascalemod on Tue Apr 09, 2019 1:18 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2019 7:00 am 
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Turrets is as good a place to start as any. Lots of cleanup on 3D printed parts, but result is there.

They have a ton of cool detail, including various openings for range finders and wiring. I would give them 8/10, as clean up was too much time consuming, and the 50 dollar price is tad steep (considering the base kit was 54).

Issue nr 1: I am not sure how to make barrels workable considering the mechanism employed by Pontos are not usable for 3D printed turrets (despite the description of said parts stating they are for Pontos specifically). Gonna have to solve it with either some blue tac or some stoppers as guns all depress to negative elevation, while a 3 degree elevation minimum is ideal + ability to raise them up. Hard to do with brass!


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IMG_0494.jpg
IMG_0494.jpg [ 307.02 KiB | Viewed 956 times ]
9A5D957A-E93C-4191-9B2F-E3AE24CB80FF.JPG
9A5D957A-E93C-4191-9B2F-E3AE24CB80FF.JPG [ 343.27 KiB | Viewed 956 times ]

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2019 11:38 pm 
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Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Sounds like a nice project - one that ought to keep you out of trouble for quite some time. I don't think I've seen a build of this ship before so it will be interesting to watch the progress.

Good luck - and have fun! :thumbs_up_1:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 4:44 am 
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steinerman wrote:
Sounds like a nice project - one that ought to keep you out of trouble for quite some time. I don't think I've seen a build of this ship before so it will be interesting to watch the progress.

Good luck - and have fun! :thumbs_up_1:


Thanks. I am stuck on figuring out how to make barrels workable. :) Haha, not an easy beginnings here. But Im kinda of heating the idea of barrels being stuck in one position, the whole point of them to me is to move up and down, which is much more cool, given they all moved independently on main caliber. Asking MicroMaster who made the turrets what the solution could be but so far, I can only think of tacky substance kinda holding barrels in place but also moving back and forth if needed... will see.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 12:40 pm 
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Shall watch this with great interest! This class has become a firm favourite of mine, the Duke in particular.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2019 5:47 am 
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Martocticvs wrote:
Shall watch this with great interest! This class has become a firm favourite of mine, the Duke in particular.


Glad to oblige. I quickly realized that I better settle on my color scheme asap considering that the painting needs to start very soon. I am choosing between AK 507C and XF19 Tamiya for upper works - they both seem close enough on a first glance but perhaps lighter is better still. PLus the deck needs to be painted soon aslo, given it was dark grey... and I am losing most of texture on it as a result, which is not that great. :S To add insult to injury a wooden deck is a great time saver when it comes to masking and painting, but again here there is nothing to mask, as whole deck is basically added BEFORE any ventilators go on it.

I get the feeling I should have picked something simpler for my first 1/350 battleship. :)

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2019 12:02 pm 
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Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Duke of York's paint scheme for the North Cape (I presume that's your subject matter?) would have been G45 upper works (same as 507C), and G5 hull and horizontal surfaces.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2019 12:58 pm 
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Martocticvs wrote:
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Duke of York's paint scheme for the North Cape (I presume that's your subject matter?) would have been G45 upper works (same as 507C), and G5 hull and horizontal surfaces.


From recent research, basically dark grey hull and light grey upper works, so a more modern iteration of the 507C and 507A. I think hull was G10, not G5 but could be off.

Ive figured out that whatever Tamiya out of the bottle I planned to use for upper works - I wont. It is not good enough. I am going to try Royal Navy set from AK Interactive. The 507C they have seems to brush fairly well. Which is good for all these deck touchups. For the hull I think Im going with some XF77 or 507A. It will be a close enough tone, but I will weather it so much that whatever is left will be very diverse in appearance anyway. Duke of York had a lot of medium grey paint showing through it seems based on photos on the bows, so I will go for that look. :)

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2019 1:15 pm 
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Yes, taking Sovereign Hobbies research, G45 upper, G10 hull, G5 horizontal surfaces. That seems better. G5 is very dark.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2019 4:13 pm 
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Martocticvs wrote:
Yes, taking Sovereign Hobbies research, G45 upper, G10 hull, G5 horizontal surfaces. That seems better. G5 is very dark.


Id use their paints - but they are not for sale in EU, only in UK. So Im SoL and have to use existing stuff.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2019 6:14 am 
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So back to project, I have been studying the plans more and ... not doing anything. It is just so much! And I also need to order good scuttles in 1/350 , doors and vertical ladders - does anyone know where?

As for pics, I am on to the deck here as I am still experimenting with paints for turrets.

Duke of York had a grey deck and I assume before repainting it was quite weathered. So I started weathering the deck - first making it more grey, and then adding dark grey. So far it is only the mid stage done where I am still trying to find the happy medium. Im going for a well worn deck. May be I have overdone it on the catapult area - what do you guys think? Im not good yet figuring out the traffic patterns on the ship, just assuming areas around the fixtures will be darker and near the place where traffic and water is a lot - lighter or worn off completely. I think the effect will be much nicer once there are many fixtures installed.

Materials: the deck was covered in laquer varnish, then it of course peeled a little, but I got it back. then some acrylic chipping fluid and tamiya acrylic paint on top, with water. Given there is superglue under the sticker there is extra stability from that...


Attachments:
File comment: Focsle before the breakwater . mostly worn and wont be touched much.
IMG_0836.jpg
IMG_0836.jpg [ 322.98 KiB | Viewed 560 times ]
File comment: Virgin deck sticker...
IMG_0840.jpg
IMG_0840.jpg [ 208.35 KiB | Viewed 560 times ]
File comment: All greyish hue, worn out
IMG_0866.jpg
IMG_0866.jpg [ 140.28 KiB | Viewed 560 times ]
File comment: First layer applied
IMG_0871.jpg
IMG_0871.jpg [ 155.64 KiB | Viewed 560 times ]
File comment: first layer of chipping
IMG_0873.jpg
IMG_0873.jpg [ 197.2 KiB | Viewed 560 times ]
File comment: And more or less the final cut. I still plan to spray here and there more paint but the effect is done. If i deem this too much, I will just paint over it. :) Easy.
IMG_0879.jpg
IMG_0879.jpg [ 241.46 KiB | Viewed 560 times ]

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