The Ship Model Forum

Working on a 1/96 scale CV-2 Lexington . She will be 110" long overall . It will be a plug to make a mold . She will be with the narrow flight deck forward .



Used piano wire to define the knuckle at the stern .



Made the bow and stern sections first .


Good view of the knuckle .



Prop shaft angle drawn on table .





Plans are a copy of the orignial Bethlehem Shipbuilding faired lines .There are 47 bulkheads to cut out .

Have 39 of the 47 bulkheads cut out for CV-2 Lexington in 1/96 scale .110" overall length . Can't wait to get her laid out on my 10 ft work table .

I now have all 47 bulkheads cut out .Can't wait to get this baby laid out on the 10ft table .



I clamp the bulkheads together with a 1/4X1/4 strip in the notches that were cut out when I cut out each bulkhead .The top one will fit into a 1/4X1/4 strip glued to the table .The bottom one is were the keel will go .I put a layer of bondo on them all then sand it down .That makes them all nice and even [ flat ]. On the sides are notches cut into them for stringers . The two top ones are for the deck line or sheer line .

Looks like a great start Richard - will you be doing a WIP for the build?

_________________
Tracy White -Researcher@Large

"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
-Barbara Tuchman

Yes Tracy , I will keep posting progress. I will show making the fiberglass hull, then work making the RC model. One builder is already working on the island. Thanks for your interest.

110 inclkes loa...

wow- that will be a biggie!!

JB

_________________
....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
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This baby will be done this summer .

Wow - she's a monster!

_________________
Martin

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday." John Wayne

Ship Model Gallery

Hi Martin
Yes and I have started two more monsters that need the table space so as soon as I finish Kongo Lady Lex will be the next one down the ways . That is the only ten foot table I have and I am tied between 1/96 HMS Vanguard and 1/96 Akagi .




As soon as I get a layer of mat on it I can release it from the table . Each frame is hot glued to the table with the small wooden blocks . There is a 1/4 X 1/4 notch cut in each frame that fits over a 1/4 X 1/4 basswood strip hot glued to the table CL . That is what keeps is straight until the mat has been installed .

Doesn't fiberglass resin cause foam to melt?
Or are you using a specific type of polyester?

Yes the polyester resin will eat Styrofoam as you watch in horror . I go dumpster diving for Styrofoam so there is no expense in that . I use it to fill in between frames but stay away from the edge . Then I use a spray polyester foam on the outside edge as the Polyester resin wont melt it . You can buy Polyester foam in large blocks but it is expensive . It can also be purchased as a powder that is mixed with water the expands . If you had a factory making plugs than that is the way to go . I find it more cost effective to use the spray can " gap filler " stuff you can get just about any were .

Styrofoam is plenty here and few bucks for a square meter. I used it, put layers of acrylic putty for protection then used car filler over it but still damaged it. So you think if there is a thin layer between foam and polyester this will protect it? I have found a special polyester resin for brushing over foam but haven't tried it yet.

Have you tried filling with polyurethane in can?

Yes the polyester resin will eat Styrofoam as you watch in horror . I go dumpster diving for Styrofoam so there is no expense in that . I use it to fill in between frames but stay away from the edge . Then I use a spray polyester foam on the outside edge as the Polyester resin wont melt it . You can buy Polyester foam in large blocks but it is expensive . It can also be purchased as a powder that is mixed with water the expands . If you had a factory making plugs than that is the way to go . I find it more cost effective to use the spray can " gap filler " stuff you can get just about any were .[/quote]
Styrofoam is plenty here and few bucks for a square meter. I used it, put layers of acrylic putty for protection then used car filler over it but still damaged it. So you think if there is a thin layer between foam and polyester this will protect it? I have found a special polyester resin for brushing over foam but haven't tried it yet.

I have used drywall plaster to cover the Styrofoam but needs to be at least 1/8" thick . I still use it to fill in holes in the Polyester foam .

Have you tried filling with polyurethane in can?[/quote]