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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2020 11:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:02 am
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Location: EG48
A second project I've been working on from time to time when I need a break from my 1/350th USS Salem build is Bronco's recent 1/350th Type 055 Large Destroyer. The class is a very fine looking ship, borrowing heavily from the Arleigh Burke class layout and essentially being a cleaned up, stealthier looking version. I figure if the South China Sea cooks off it will be nice to have a rendition of our adversary in my collection.

Bronco's kit is what I'm calling "win some, lose some." Overall I'm very favorable to it and think it's a great kit for the money. However, there are some areas that counter a solid "A."

Starting off, there is a lot of multiple-piece molding (aka Slide molding) that went in to this kit. Lower hull, upper deck and superstructure, bridge, and central exhaust superstructure and you have probably 90% of the kit in just those five pieces. The first "lose" is the forward hull, where the interior stiffeners they molded in caused slight depressions and sink marks along their length. I used a single layer of Mr Surfacer 1500 black to make this stand out better:

Attachment:
File comment: Starboard bow with Mr Surfacer 1500 black applies and sanded smooth
055 02.jpg
055 02.jpg [ 53.03 KiB | Viewed 578 times ]


In addition to the vertical sink lines, there's a bit of a mold step that parallels the sonar dome joint below it, and the very bottom of the hull between the aft/left most vertical depression and the aft end of the sonar dome was squared off and not faired smooth as the rest of the hull. As I said earlier, it only took one application of the Mr Surfacer to take care of the vertical depressions. Easy fix, maybe 20 minutes total time of work if you subtract the time waiting for it to dry. The fit of the sonar dome halves was pretty decent and there's a solid alignment channel for placement against the hull, but as you can see there was a sizeable gab between the two parts:

Attachment:
File comment: Sonar dome fit to hull
055 03.jpg
055 03.jpg [ 40.26 KiB | Viewed 578 times ]


I initially tried to flood the joint with the same Mr. Surfacer Black 1500 but ran into issues - I don't know if I didn't initially shake it well enough at one of the multiple stages or if I just didn't give it enough time to truly set, but I could never get a good flush fill. Eventually I wiped most of it out with some Mr Color thinner and then used the old tried and true resin ship builders air bubble filler of baking soda flooded and saturated with thin CA glue. I initially packed and rolled mostly smooth and then hit it with the thin CA glue. Here's another shot of all of the lines before I gave up and went back on the joint:

Attachment:
File comment: Lines all over
055 05.jpg
055 05.jpg [ 65.68 KiB | Viewed 578 times ]


By the time I had finished sanding down the CA glue and baking soda, the horizontal mold seam line had been sanded away, so maybe ignore it for a bit if you're going to follow my lead and see if you need to worry about it after concentrating on the joint seam. A bunch of sanding and shaping later and we have what I feel is a good enough and strong enough fill:

Attachment:
File comment: So sleek and smooth!
055 04.jpg
055 04.jpg [ 63.44 KiB | Viewed 578 times ]


For those who haven't used this technique before, a couple of tips. Start with dry baking soda and make sure to saturate all of the granules. If you must use some out of the box you have in the fridge, I'd literally bake it in the oven for a bit to cook the moisture it's soaked up out. I haven't personally seen this, but I have a friend who used this as a filler and did not saturate the soda powder, which began to soak up moisture and a couple of years later started to ooze out something nasty. I have models that I used this technique on 20 years ago with good results and no such growth. Second piece is to work with it within a week or so as it becomes very hard over time and will be more work to sand down and shape. This stuff is tough, so don't be afraid to hit it with some coarse grit to knock it down fast and then clean up with a finer grit.

There's a pretty hefty knocking pin hole in the bottom center of the hull as well. Not difficult to fill and sand smooth. Win some, loose some - I'm not sure if there was net loss or gain in having a single piece hull with separate sonar dome seam versus a two piece hull with a longer seam to fill. For what ever reason, I really like hulls with bulbous sonar domes so I enjoyed working on mine as they molded it.

I haven't done much to the upper hull and superstructure yet but here's a couple of photos - first is the tip of the bow, which on mine was bent. I'm not sure if this was a production flaw (knocking it against a surface before it had cooled and strengthened) or was a result of somewhat cheap packing and a three-month sequester in a Chinese shipping center due to Covid19 hold. REgardless, it's pretty tough and has resisted most efforts to bend it back to shape:

Attachment:
File comment: Raptor nose.
055 01.jpg
055 01.jpg [ 30 KiB | Viewed 578 times ]


Small sink mark on the forward superstructure below the bridge level piece. Single application and sanding of Mr. Surfacer 1500, maybe 5-10 minutes time.

Attachment:
File comment: Bridge
055 06.jpg
055 06.jpg [ 288.65 KiB | Viewed 578 times ]


There was another 1-2mm depression on the port side near the aft corner of the forward superstructure that I did at the same time.

Detail on the doors is a bit soft or maybe "stealth."

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"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 11:52 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 2:12 pm
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the real thing.
http://i.imgur.com/Asds5rp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/bv79Urd.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JYjORaT.jpg
https://www.sinodefenceforum.com/t/type ... 0/page-410
https://www.sinodefenceforum.com/t/type ... read.6480/


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2020 7:43 am 
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Location: USA
Great subject, nice work!

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Catalog of over 2500 products for scale modelers - https://www.model-monkey.com/


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 11:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:02 am
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Location: EG48
A little bit of progress - two steps forward one back style.

My preferred method for mounting plastic ship models is to put a little bit of resin in the lower hull that I can drill and tap for a lamp shade riser. It also gives the hull a bit of heft I just find a touch more appealing. The Type 055 has both bilge keels and active stabilizers, so four attachment points per side with holes through the hull. They are low enough that I couldn't get a ton of resin in without overflowing and having a mess to clean up. This is fairly easy to deal with and a bit of an economy to the resin (mine usually goes bad before I use it all up anyway so this is less of a concern to me). I just pour in two phases with a cofferdam built up around each hole. As you can see in the first photo, the resin is *just* about to the bottom of one of the openings. The resin in place has been drilled and tapped and one of the risers screwed loosely in. A triangular cofferdam was cut up that's just a bit taller than the post top (less pieces and the hull is narrow enough here that it fits better). Wipe the threads down a touch with petroleum jelly and pour the second layer and I don't have to worry about drilling and tapping any more:

Attachment:
File comment: Forward post
055 07.jpg
055 07.jpg [ 106.57 KiB | Viewed 422 times ]


Or so one might think - I somehow tapped the aft hole at an angle and there ain't no shimming that I want to do that will look good or overcome. So, this one is going to have tape over the bottom of the hole when I pour the second layer in and will be re-drilled and tapped:

Attachment:
File comment: Aft post
055 08.jpg
055 08.jpg [ 113.51 KiB | Viewed 422 times ]


I scuff the top surface a bit before the second layer just 'cause, but there's really no need as the threads are going to pull down and put both layers in a compression load. I've never had to seal the bottom, I can just lay the pieces in place and pour in and the resin I use isn't so thin that it leaks out. I'm helping a friend with his first ship model and we'll be pouring his resin and this one this coming Tuesday

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Tracy White -Researcher@Large

"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
-Barbara Tuchman


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2020 8:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 10, 2018 9:28 am
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Location: Cincinnati
Excellent work so far and thanks for including all the details on your mounts. Embarrassed I’d forgotten about the petroleum jelly trick lol
I have a Type 051 1/200 scale in my stash. This may just be the inspiration for me to start it :thumbs_up_1:


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2020 9:31 pm 
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Themongoose, which 1 as I have about 6 different 1/166 scale type 51's waiting to be built?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2020 11:29 pm 
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Glad you enjoyed it - got a short bit of time over the weekend to work on the weapons but my plans to pour the additional resin this week got blown out by a client emergency. So, next Tuesday now. If I can I'll take pics and post thoughts on the armament tomorrow, but I do need to get back to my Salem build.

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"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
-Barbara Tuchman


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 5:43 am 
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Great to see this one come together. Excellent job on the seams!! :thumbs_up_1:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 7:18 am 
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Wow! I will be following this one closely! Keep the good work up, Tracy!

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2020 6:53 am 
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Interesting to see that one built!

I have an eight times smaller one started (DreamModels).

Which helicopter will you use?

A friend used a Z-9 by Trumpeter for his Type 055:
Image
http://www.modellmarine.de/index.php/modelle/531-ingmar-stoehr/5904-zerstoerer-nanchang

I found also only photos with a Z-9 on board. DreamModels included a Harbin Z-20, at least according to this video the Z-20J is already in service with PLAN:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjuarheAt_8

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2020 10:34 pm 
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I'm waiting to see and decide on the helo. I would like to do her as she is operationally, and the Helo should be pretty easy to add. Bronco Z-9's are still fairly easy to get.

Work's been busy the last few weeks so no model building time (I've joined the IPMS Seattle weekly zoom builds on Thursdays but just to hang out while I continue to work). I did complete assembly on the forward weapons at least, however the plastic for the 130mm gun is thin and soft enough that I bent it near to the point of breaking it free and my attempts to re-glue it at the proper angle weren't up to my standards. I had already purchased the Big Blue Boy PE railing set and felt that would be enough, but when I wasn't able to find just a gun barrel, I decided to throw in on their appropriately numbered set "35055" PLAN Type 055 Destroyer detail set.

We'll see if the barrels that come with it are easily retrofitted to an already-assembled mount or not. It's not due to arrive for a couple of weeks though so I'll spend my time fixing one of the pedestal holes and hopefully joining the upper and lower hull halves.

Here's a shot of the weapons so far. The H/PJ-11 CIWS looks decent enough but the mounting post was curved, leading to a tilt when test fitted. I intend to cut it off on my next session and if that doesn't look right I might use that as an excuse to try out the upcoming Snowman Model mount:

Attachment:
055 09.jpg
055 09.jpg [ 84.96 KiB | Viewed 86 times ]


More hopefully next weekend!

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"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
-Barbara Tuchman


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