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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2020 11:38 am 
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Great job! Very nice and interesting shapes! :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

Neptune wrote:
The white one is pretty good, sanding goes fast. I do still get some improperly cured spots from time to time. For a model of this size, you only need a very tiny amount of filler, so mixing it at proper proportions isn't too easy.

The trick that works for me when mixing two-part epoxy putties to a 50-50 ratio: I quickly roll both parts into a ball, which makes it easy to visually compare their size (= diameter), and adjust one ball until they look the same size.
I have been doing this for more than 20 years now with grey and white Milliput, Duro (green stuff) and Magic Sculp, and never had any of them cure improperly. Throughly kneading both parts is of course important too.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2020 4:35 pm 
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Hi Marijn,

thanks for the tip. The problem is the Milliput is quite old (opened slightly over a year ago, and I did not keep in separate sealed boxes). It became quite hard and manipulating it is quite hard. Adding water to it during mixing does help.
Same was the case on my last build, with the same uncured spots as a consequence. It's quite easy to fix though.

Carried on with the forward part to create the cover.

Also found some remaining plexi/PETG plates in the cupboard. Originally I wanted the dio to be bigger, but now I do think this is about the right size.
PETG/Vivak is a tough type of plastic, quite rigid and doesn't bend too much, even without the full support. The only problem appears to be gluing it. It's quite unclear with which glue you can actually glue it (apart from construction glue I guess).
Any help on the matter is appreciated!


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File comment: I think this will be the perspective, giving a rather good view on the bow and stern from the sides as well. With the windmill base on portside aft.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2020 7:25 pm 
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Try your tamiya cement or equivalent for the plexi to see if it works. If it doesn’t then what i use is Weldon#4

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TC ... UTF8&psc=1

#4 doesn’t cloud at the joint like #3 can.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2020 7:39 am 
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Maybe you should use small screws to attach the hull halves to the base rather than glue them. No fogging and by putting them in some strategically placed removable hatches you can keep reaching them and remove the hull halves for further detailing or reworking the model.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2020 6:50 am 
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Normal plastic glues (I'm using UHU) don't work on this type of plate (tried that already).

The screws sound very appealing, unfortunately I don't have any waterline plane on either top or bottom half to fix these screws. That said, for a future build I'll go for two waterline planes to match and then I would actually use screws. I love the idea of having it removable.

Currently the plan is to glue the bottom part (with the fixation points going through the plate) when it's finished. It doesn't have much detail, so that should be ok. The top part I can put in place afterwards, since I have those fixation points to position it for test fitting.

Still looking for a gluing method though. Apparently there is something like Dichloromethane that would be able to glue/solve PETG, not sure how to get it though. :heh:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2020 7:04 am 
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I have no idea about glues that will weld the plastics, so I would simply use two-part epoxy. It should also give a strong bond, and you can adjust the position long enough before it starts to cure. Just be carefull not to apply too close to the edges or it will squize out when you press the model down.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2020 6:31 am 
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Hi all,

well the issue is not so much the model itself to the plexi, but since I intend to make a plexi box, I also need to glue the corners in a transparent way. A 2-part epoxy glue will likely not dry colourless…

In the meanwhile I've continued with filling and sanding, preparing the hull for a coat of spray putty.

The starboard side wall has also received the remaining structure, same for the aft superstructures/ventilation trunks. The long side wall has a sloped base since it is a part of the original rock hopper. Initially there was a similar wall on port side.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2020 7:30 am 
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The progress is looking great! :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

Neptune wrote:
well the issue is not so much the model itself to the plexi, but since I intend to make a plexi box, I also need to glue the corners in a transparent way. A 2-part epoxy glue will likely not dry colourless…

That is true! A 'welding' glue would certainly be a better option for that. Maybe retailer's websites offer suggestions?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2020 7:26 am 
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Thanks Marijn,

first coat of spray putty applied now. Some of that will be sanded off again before I glue the windows on. Also on the bow I'll need to make a better cover for the hole before I start spraying again.
As usual with white subject I'll put a grey primer on to get rid of any contrasts.

In the middle on starboard I've been sanding too much on the waterline, creating a bent view. Luckily she actually needs to lose some height in the hull according to the plan, so I'll make an attempt to rectify it by sanding more off forward and aft as well.

Also on the aft underwater hull she needs to lose some weight to better match with the upper hull. At least the broken part was replaced properly.

Read somewhere that MEK would be suitable for the Vivak plate, so I guess I'll be trying that.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2020 6:49 am 
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Small update,

time to focus on the lower hull and get it finished. Main thrusters made. The retractable ones are much smaller and of different shape.
The aft part was also adapted to better fit with the upper part. One disadvantage of the milliput technique is that very often the frames come shining through. By lightly sanding on those frames this effect can be greatly reduced.
And last but not least I added the fins aft.

Also did the bridge. Often I make it from one or two solid pieces of 1.5 and 1mm, but on this vessel the bridge (and its windows) are very high. Therefore I want for a normal "box" build-up. The actual roof with slanted edges is still missing here. It's only a dry fit, since I will paint it separately.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2020 1:32 pm 
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What a wonderful idea and outstanding rendering. I so love watching your built :wave_1: :woo_hoo:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2020 6:34 am 
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Thanks Chloé,

In the meantime I finished the underwater body apart from propeller blades (that's going to be a pain).

The props are in a realistic scenario. From time to time, with very low external loads, they can be biased to create a higher load and keep the direction of the props more steady.

The grating on the moonpool was cut from an Ikea cooking pot splash shield, very fine, very strong and extremely cheap!

In the meantime I also received the MEK and ran some tests. It is indeed invisible and does work on the clear polyester Vivak sheets. It also glues polystyrene to the Vivak plates. Even painted surfaces can glue quite well with this product, without completely destroying the paint.
I tested the last part since the inner lower hull was also sprayed in "anti-fouling". This to avoid a visual effect of the 1mm sheet going through the ship. I was afraid the white from inside the lower hull would be visible through the transparent sheet...
I'm currently testing some colours to get the "Deme green" right and some testing for an acrylic gel cover of the "sea surface".


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2020 6:58 am 
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Not much to report this time. As you can see in following pics, I've been adding the windows/portholes to the accommodation and bridge.

I've been concentrating a little on the dio itself. Here is the dry-fit concept. First I need to find a decent way to cover the top "water surface" before gluing the bottom hull to it.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2020 7:49 am 
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That looks really interesting with the hull below and above the water plate! :thumbs_up_1:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2020 7:52 am 
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Nice windows and lower hull. And even better to see that Baillien has survived as a model shop.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2020 7:28 am 
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Thanks for the comments.

Baillien is indeed surviving and I must admit, with the webshop they have, I'm kind of ordering more as well. While I would get stuck on projects due to a shortage of some material and collecting larger orders to travel there once a year (or 2), now I'm simply ordering it and I throw in things I don't really need to get free shipping :heh:
The webshop isn't entirely easy to work with, but it's fine. They do have a huge stock of materials, which does make for a very fast delivery.

Continuing on various areas. The seabed has now received the sand. I used extremely fine sand from children's sandboxes. The circle around the windmill will be filled with a more coarse grain, since those are rocks in reality.

You can also see the monopile (brown thing) that is first put in the seabed and the transition piece (which is the yellow thing sticking out above the surface). The transition piece will also be cut so the whole pile serves as a support for the plexi plate.

The sand is actually a mixture of water, heavy acrylic gel and sand. Dries pretty hard and seems to stick better than sanding paper. I could shape the seabed with more of this mixture if I need to, but I'm ok with it for the time being.

The ship itself I'm preparing for the light green coat, currently adding the "bulwark" plating around the vessel. Crane and excavator pedestal are also in progress, but will be painted separately and are just dry fitted for now.

I know the vivak plates on the sides are cracked, this happened during the cutting process. Lesson learned: don't cut it like plexi glass. If you just scribe it and try to snap it, it'll crack... No matter how deep the initial cut was. The only way to do it properly seems to be cutting it first and then go through it with a small sanding disc. I'll redo the cracked sides.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 6:39 am 
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First of all, Best Wishes for 2021!

Small update, sorry for the crappy pics. I made some progress on the painting, which was necessary at this point to make more progress.

Had a small disaster with the yellow-green outside coat. At first I mixed some Revell colours to achieve the correct colour, but the mixture involved a very large amount of luminous yellow. This is a rather transparent paint and made the resulting green also very transparent. Additionally the green was becoming luminous as well... After an airbrush coat of this colour, it looked disastrous.
It was eventually fixed by Motip spray can, with a very accurate colour (pity I didn't check that before). It's glossy, so I will have to put a transparent matt coat over it.

Now there is still an anti-fouling part to be added on the lower area involving the bulbous bow.

I have lots of parts that can be built and added now, I think I'll first detail the helicopter deck and attach it to the bridge top. Secondly I suppose I'll fabricate a big ventilation casing that is located just aft of the bridge.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2021 8:11 am 
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She looks very elegant with that painting!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2021 3:06 pm 
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Yeah I've noticed as well. The trick I believe is the small white triangle on the top level forward. From certain angles it blends in with the forward upper bulkhead, making the forward part look more sleek than she actually is.

Continued with the heli deck. An oversized and very heavy version for this vessel. It can take the heaviest of offshore helicopters.
Made a small Jim Baumann here (not the skills, but the habit of starting off with something "simple and quick" and ending up detailing it as far as you can :heh: :heh: )

Around the helo deck is a walkway that acts as an escape having stairs both forward and aft of the actual landing area.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2021 4:22 pm 
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Looks pretty nice. How did you keep the structure straight?


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