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 Post subject: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 4:45 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 19, 2006 3:00 am
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Location: Greece
Just finished the hull, only thing that needs to be done is the armor plating which is totally absent from the kit.I did it by masking it with tamiya tape and then applying a rather think layer of humbrol matt 64 (tends to be one of the thickest in their range).


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3.jpg
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File comment: rear end
2.jpg
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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:02 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 7:46 am
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Location: Paradise Newfoundland
Your decks are a work of art as per usual, good job!

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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:28 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2005 9:41 am
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Location: Monson, MA.
I agree. Your decks are remarkable. :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:




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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 10:27 am 
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Thanks.I do hate it when i have to paint the deck with a camo scheme.I love painting the natural wood, makes the whole model look even more realistic at the end.

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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 10:55 am 
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Location: In the hills of North Jersey
Nice work (as usual). Does anyone make a PE set that covers the 1931 version of the ship?

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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 11:20 am 
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Location: Greece
GMM'S british warships generic fret has everything u might need including repulse's cranes.

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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 4:06 pm 
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Added the water as well again using clear resin (this is one way trip) if you mess it up you might as well kiss the model goodbye.


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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 8:37 am 
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Location: Queen City of the South - Cebu City, Philippines
Nice Little hood angeleyes! :thumbs_up_1:
Where did you get the clear resin?

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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:29 am 
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Location: Greece
model shop for architects

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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2008 1:16 am 
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Location: Augsburg Bavaria Germany Europe Earth
Nice weathering an Hull Detail! Inspiriting! :thumbs_up_1:

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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 5:25 am 
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A small update on a bunch of tugs i will be adding around Hood.Still in the process of adding small details to make them look as lively as possible.


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ss.jpg
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ss2.jpg
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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 9:03 am 
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Location: Northants, UK
nice job thus far. wouldn't mind seeing a step by step on the clear resin water.


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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 4:10 am 
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A small update thus far.I just finished the painting of the tugs and added the booms in the extended position.I am thinking of having the plane hoisted at the back too.That will be a very busy scene indeed.


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te3.jpg
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te4.jpg
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te2.jpg
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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 5:23 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 12, 2005 3:28 am
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Location: alton hampshire uk
hi
very nice lots of stuff going on love Both QE's
gary

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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 6:07 am 
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Hi,

great ship, you are building. I didnt start my up to now, because I am not sure about the hull color.

Did you change the hull color during the building process?? On the first pictures it looks lighter, than in your last ones.


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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 6:22 am 
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its just the lighting.In fact is the same or slightly darker now due to a few more washes that i have applied since then

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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 8:02 am 
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Ohh, I forgot a question. How did you paint the deck, it looks very nice, can you explain your method please??


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 Post subject: Re: HOOD '31
PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 9:20 am 
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Ok regarding the deck is very simple.Basically paint each plank or a very big number of them to a different color then apply oil washes.The trick is to get the right color or shade if you like.Not too bright ,not to dark.The water is clear resin.A quick guide:
resin as it goes is not cheap but i have found it to be ideal in realism when i represent calm waters.I paint the bottom of my base with a dark blue/green color (acrylic) and once it dries well enough i apply the resin on top.The resin comes separate with a very small bottle of what is called a catalyst.It basically controls the rate of reaction so if you pour too much the resin gets hard too quickly and vice versa.I think my type of clear resin is recommended a couple of drops on something like half a pint of resin (again different types of resins different guidelines)-mine is casting clear resin for those who want to know-,which i have found too slow(days!!).Besides when it takes so long to hardened the resin, you have a bigger chance of the resin reacting with the painted base and destroying it.It literally pulls apart whatever it is underneath it ,paint, glue, varnish.So i found that by pouring too much catalyst i accelerate the reaction so much that the resin gets hardened within 10-15 min so it doesn't get sufficient time to react with whatever is underneath it ,plus it saves me time on the model itself.Now resin will spread in a uniform manner and it will create an almost perfect glass-like surface.That is not a calm sea exactly, the sea should still have very subtle riddles so(and thats the trickiest part of all) depending how much catalyst and how fast your mix is getting hard ,take a hair drier and once is like a gel start blowing hot air on it.There are ,depending which way the waves go etc, different approaches to this but generally just to create few riddles keep the hair drier directly above for a few seconds at about 10 cm away and with slow motion move around the surface of the base and once you create the riddles take it off. Repeat every few minutes until you are happy with the effect.After that the resin will never go back to the glass like state, the riddles will subside once you take the hair drier off but they will not disappear ,and depending how much you repeat this process the riddles will be more and more frequent and defined.Word of caution:when you put the hair drier for the first time above the resin do it so by approaching slowly from a safe distance while blowing until the resin starts to shake.If you put the hair drier and start blowing from too close from the start you risking pushing/spilling the resin off the base since you don't know how solid or liquid it still is. When the base is hard apply a bit of resin underneath your model and glue it on the water.Do NOT touch the resin with your fingers as even after days it gets hardened it will still be soft enough and with the heat generated from your finger to leave a very clear fingertip mark.Good luck.

I forgot to say that if you are planning to do this is vital that you will be able to cover the entire base with something to prevent dust slowly but surely settling on it(you want be able to remove it afterwards ).So either a case or a box is necessary beforehand.

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