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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 6:40 pm 
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Best wishes for your health! Good to see you return, though.

As I'm looking at the ratlines on the main shrouds, I'm struck by the very long horizontal length due to the number and spread of the shrouds. I hate to ask this, but are you sure that the ratlines would have been spread all the way across all the shrouds? I've seen examples on larger Admiralty type ship models where the ratlines only span a portion of the shrouds, typically where three or more are clustered fairly close together.

The forward-most shroud is often unconnected to ratlines and the aft 1/2/3 are sometimes freestanding.

Just wondering.

Love the look!

Regards,
Bob


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 8:32 pm 
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You know, I have some plans for the Columbus that show what you suggest on the main and fore shrouds. I am going to look into this further and see if some of the ratlines can be cut out and then not put them in on the starboard side. Thanks for the feed back!!


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 11:43 pm 
I am shaping the main, fore, and mizzen top gallent and royal yards. Lees book seems to say the t'gallent is sixteen squared but says nothing of the royal in this regard. I am eight squaring all of the other yards. Would it be proper to just eight square the t'gallent and round the royal?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 12:29 am 
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I looked into the ratlines running across all of the shrouds. If I go by photos of the Constitution, The ratlines DO go across every shroud except as they near the platforms, then they skip the last one of two as they draw to close together to bother.

A question on "tying" the ratlines. I am trying to pin the shrouds to a piece of stiff paper, and then tie the ratlines to them. I have been tying a clove hitch to each shroud just like on the real ship, it is difficult to pass the ratline across the back of the shroud and try to tighten the knot down. It is going to take a little experimenting to adjust to this new method. At 1/72 scale would it have been just as well to simply glue each ratline as it passes across the shroud, or even run a threaded needle through the middle of each shroud and glue it down? Did I perhaps get to carried away with "authenticity"?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2013 5:22 am 
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For what it's worth, I tried the methods you mentioned plus a dozen or more others to do the ratlines. I found that the clove hitch method worked the best. Once I got the process down I was able to do a single ratline in 30 sec or so. One nice thing about the clove hitch was that it allowed me to slide the knot up or down the shroud a bit to adjust the height of each individual knot. Once they were set, I applied a drop of thread seizing liquid (from a sewing shop) rather than glue. Other methods, such as the needle through the shroud, were not adjustable and I just couldn't seem to get the knack of perfect positioning. In the end, whatever method works for you is the best one!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 20, 2013 8:16 am 
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I am getting ready to install the studding boom irons on the yards. Question is, and it may seem a dumb one, do the rear irons cant at a 22-1/2 degree angle to match the front ones? I will be silver soldering the shafts to the rings as I wait for an answer to this. I have most of my Columbus bulkheads cut out now, just need to do some final shaping and then I will work on her keel.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 1:15 am 
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I have started Rigging the yards. I have all of them made along with the studding booms. Irons are installed. As you can see, I have the clew-garnet blocks for most of the yards done. Only need six more slightly smaller ones for the royals and top gallants. I am making rope for the horses and stirrups. I am seizing where needed. I need some aluminum hollow rod to make the thimbles for the stirrups. What I have is a little too large or too small. Hopefully Ace has the size I need other wise I am going to have to drill holes in 1/16th round wood stock and carefully saw them to the thickness I need. I am STILL working on the ratlines. It is so tedious and boring that I cannot get myself to sit sown and just do hundreds of knots in a sitting. I just try to do 6 or so each day. Almost done with the Starboard side. Have entire port side left. I figure about 800 clove hitches on the port side alone. Wish me luck! Should I post some photos of the irons? I have all of the bulkheads for my Columbus Cut out They need some final shaping and then I can start to glue them to the keel. This time I am going to frame all of the gun ports before I plank. I hope to use Holly or Swiss pear if I cannot find enough Holly for the planking and only do one layer of planks 1/16th inch thick. I will be cutting all of my own planks on my new Inland mini table saw. I will post photos to my Columbus build tomorrow
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 1:33 am 
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Hello threebs

beautiful work it is very convincing :thumbs_up_1:
cheers
Nicolas

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 9:14 am 
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threebs wrote:
I need some aluminum hollow rod to make the thimbles for the stirrups. What I have is a little too large or too small. Hopefully Ace has the size I need other wise I am going to have to drill holes in 1/16th round wood stock and carefully saw them to the thickness I need.

Great to see more progress. Looking very nice! :thumbs_up_1:

When you say thimbles for the stirrups, I assume you are talking about the thimble (or eye) at the bottom of the vertical ropes that the footropes are lashed to? If so, for the scale you're working in, that is an over-the-top level of detail. A major salute to you!

Have you tried a dummy footrope, yet? I found that getting the vertical support ropes to hang straight down was next to impossible. I tried treating them with glue but that was unconvincing. Never did get a system I really liked. I wound up going with the wire approach where black wire is used in place of the vertical rope. That ensures that it will hang straight and it allows a simple eye to be formed at the bottom. As I said, this was one of those areas I was never really satisfied with. Hopefully, you'll do better and share your secret!

Keep up the great work!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 8:54 am 
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Here is my first attempt at Horses and Stirrups. I think it came out quite well. Doubling around the thimble and seizing, then super gluing made the stirrups quite stiff and they seem to hang down very well. The stirrups are about 3/8th inch long, making them about 24 inches in real life. That puts the yard right at your mid thighs to lower belly. Judging from drawings I have in "The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor" by Darcy Lever That should be about right? The stirrup thimbles are cut from 2mm hollow tube brass I got at my local hardware store. It takes a little filing to get them the correct thickness.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 10:12 am 
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Looks good. I'll have to try that technique myself! Thanks for sharing.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 1:43 pm 
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That is looking very nice indeed! :thumbs_up_1:

I am happy to see the model progressing so well with such attention to detail.

I am watching!

JimB :wave_1:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 11:26 pm 
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OK. I am now making blocks and seizing them to appropriate strops for installing on the yards. I have been wrestling with not putting the smaller 12" blocks that are used for the bunt and leech lines as they are only used to furl and unfurl the sails. If I out the blocks on, people are going to see them and wonder and ask why they are there and not being used. So, could I get a few opinions from some of you if it would still be authentic enough to do without those particular blocks? I am not afraid to do the work, but so many blocks only 5/32nds in size would be a HUGE chore. I am really torn here, I want this to be a accurate as I am capable of doing. Hand shaping even the 3/16 and 1/4 inch single double and triples take scores of hours as it is. personally I think I can do without them, but, if the consensus is that it would be more authentic with them in place, i will do the work and be glad of it if you guys think it should be done. Perhaps this is one of those "personal" preferences that model builder make, but, sometimes you have to do something that will make the work better even if it is not your private choice.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 9:37 am 
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Above all, do it whatever way gives you the most enjoyment both during the build and after!

That said, I include sheets, tacks, and clewlines since those can be fully rigged even without sails and still convey the function. I omit bunt and leech lines since I've never come up with a way to rig them in the absence of the sails. You might check and see what Hahn does - I can't remember, off hand.

Good luck!


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 7:08 pm 
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What you say is exactly what I have in mind. No bunt or leech lines, virtually everything else though.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 1:24 pm 
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Checking in. Had a Hard drive crash. Fixing that with a new hard drive and OS was time consuming to say the least. I have had back and neck problems again. A good friend and his wife are doing poorly and I have been spending a lot of time helping them out around the house and driving one of them around to do errands and go to therapy sessions. I cut off all of my ratlines so far done, (on the starboard side), over a thousand knots. The 4.5 mm spacing (13 inches in real life) just looked too busy. Found some photos of the Constitution with Marines clinging to the rat lines, They go from the sole of their boot to just below the knee cap. Taking for granted that the Marine in 5'8" to 5'10", measured on me, (5'10") that works out to around 16 inches or about 5.5mm I am doing the port side at 5.5 mm and the overall effect is much more pleasing. I know that 1mm does not seem like much, but it is definitely noticeable.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2014 3:01 pm 
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By the way, has anyone noticed the Model Ship World site is up and running again? Seems they had a catastrophic hard drive crash and ALL data was lost, So, they are sort of starting from scratch. One thing I like is the size of uploads is much greater than here. Not complaining, just sayin'. :huh: Or should I not be mentioning potential competition here? I find I like both sites. So far, I have noticed more of an International flare in MSW, and it is nice to see builds from Turkey and Romania for instance?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2014 6:29 pm 
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Some parts of the world are more prolific in wood/sail-modelling, and the countries you mentioned are some of them, so it makes sense they're seen more often on MSW, a wood/sail-centric site. We have no problems with them, unlike another site that shares the same acronym that has stolen pictures from our reviews without permission.

On the issue of upload sizes: I don't know how long MSW has been around, nor how many threads it has, but the longer/more there are, the more space the uploads will take up on the server. To keep costs down, we have to also limit upload sizes, given all of the threads that have kept over the years. The 200kb here and there add up very quickly!

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2014 3:57 pm 
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Just a quick update. I FINALLY finished the rat lines. OMG what a chore! I am finising the stirrups and foot ropes on the yards now, then I will put all the relavent blocks and studding booms on them. I need to study the slings and pendents. This ship had the pendent strops sized to the cross trees somewhere. I am somewhat confused by the nautical terms in Lee's book as to exatctly how they were attached. This ship's rigging took place when alot of "improvements" were being used. I will have to read more closely just where parrels were used and where pendents took there place or not. I do not know if I have to be quite so accurate in this area, as I am sure that different Captains also had a say in how the ship was rigged? I am pretty sure the Navy at that time was not the slave to every ship being an exact dupicate of another to make maintenance easier like it is today.



Also, the 1830's version of cross trees on the top mast(?) is a bow shaped thing I I am not certain how the sailors accessed the royal yard to work the sail there with no obvious way to attach shrouds form the bow plat form to the cross trees at the very top of the mast? There are foot ropes on royal yard, how did the climb to them with no ratlines or shrouds to get there? Nothing in Lee's book to tell me, and no other books I have deal with this period or situation.



I am going to start the ship's boats as well. Have one launch form done. not the best, but, the only plans I really have are from Chappel's book and they do not blow up ver clearly. I will send a photo of the form I have so you can tell me if I am on the right track with this. My only experience with ship boats is with the Victory model from Mantua I built over 25 years ago. NOBODY'S memory is THAT good.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2014 4:21 pm 
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Here are a couple shots of my launch.


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