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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 11:03 am 
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Location: La Rochelle, France
Hello Folks! :wave_1:
Here is a project I started in December, 2008 and which is now entering its final phase.

This diorama (40 % resin kits and 60 %scratch) shows the American heavy cruiser Minneapolis (CA 36, New Orleans class) the day after the battle of Tassafaronga, on November 30th, 1942.

I used the Combrig resin kit of her sister ship USS Astoria and the Corsair Armada kit of the tug boat USS Vireo, modified to represent the Submarine Rescue Ship US Ortolan (ASR-5).

A Small Historical Introduction
(for non-US Navy connoisseurs, yes the’re some):
(Sources: S.E.M. Morison and WWW)

On August 8th, 1942 the American expeditionary forces landed to Guadalcanal and to Tulagi in the Solomon Islands (South Pacific). This started a long campaign of conquest, island after island, of this archipelago, the beginning of a conquest of the Pacific.

A long campaign had to follow with short, but very violent night-naval actions inside this long strait which separates both parts of the archipelago: The Slot

The Japanese tried to supply their troops at night ashore and the Americans tried to stop "the Tokyo Express" nearly every night.

These battles mainly involved cruisers and destroyers (except some battleships actions). Guns vs torpedoes, with many losses on both sides.

The strait was soon nicknamed "Ironbottom Sound" because of the large number of wrecks. This long and painful campaign forged many American tactics which deeply transformed the US Navy efficiency.
The main part of the strain and losses was sustained on the American side by these pre-war cruisers of light construction and thin armour.

On November 29th, 1942, Task Force 67 sailed again to intercept the Tokyo Express which tried to supply Guadalcanal. The battle of Tassafaronga, or «4th Battle of Savo» (for the Japanese) or «battle of Lunga Point» (In some US period reports) was going to start.

On the Japanese side, a force of 8 destroyers (Naganami Flag, admiral Raizo Tanaka-Takanami, Kuroshio, Oyashio, Kagero, Suzukaze, Kawakaze and Makinami) among which six with a heavy supply cargo (half fed barrels) intended to be dropped into the sea near the shore. To save weight, these ships had no torpedo refills. No radar, but excellent night fight training.

On the American side, a force of 5 cruisers (Minneapolis, New Orleans, Pensacola, Northampton and Honolulu) and 4 destroyers (Fletcher, Drayton, Maury and Perkins) under command of rear-admiral Wright (Minneapolis) which had just replaced admiral Kinkaid the day before. Warned by intelligence, Task Force 67 had left Espiritu Santo, 900km into the South, on November 29th at midnight and was making 27 knots towards the Slot.

On paper, the Americans had the radar, the advantage of number and power. But the Japanese developed better tactics in night fight and, above all, they had the “Long Lance”, much superior to that of their opponent.

That moonless night, the sea was very quiet. A perfect one for a true "dog fight in a tunnel".

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Both forces came to contact at about 11 pm, on November 30th. The Japanese destroyers detected the American column at 11:16 pm and Tanaka immediately suspended the supply operation.

The Americans got only Takanami on radar screen, the island of Savo masking the rest of the force, but Admiral Wright held the cruisers opening fire, thinking of not being at the optimal distance. As a consequence the US destroyers at the head of the column passed the enemy force and went out of the best bearing for torpedo attack.

The US fleet opened fire at 11:21 pm, concentrating on the heading destroyer, Takanami, which was soon reduced to a burning wreck by Minneapolis shells. The rest of the Japanese squadron had still not been detected: the Japanese destroyers took advantage of this to increase speed and launch a single 44 torpedoes salvo in the direction of the US artillery flashes.

At 11:37 pm the massacre began: Minneapolis took two torpedoes. The first one hit port side just in front of turret A. The entire bow now just hanging by the fo’c’sle, bent downward by 70 °, inducing a rough braking of the cruiser who was at full speed and set panic behind, the column being making 27kts in the moonless dark. The second torpedo hit port, at no2 boiler room, whipping out 3 boilers of the cruiser 4.

New Orleans came next, 900m behind. A torpedo hit between A and B turrets. The bow was torn away on starboard with turret A and sank quickly in the dark.
Pensacola followed and just avoided the two leading ships by portside, that is right in the path of torpedoes. She was struck portside below the after mast, setting a gigantic oil fire, the mast acting as torch; her hull took about 3,000t of water (on an 11,000t displacement).
Just behind, Honolulu was lucky to avoid cruisers in passing on the starboard beam and got unscathed.
Finally came Northampton, which also passed on the starboard beam, but without increasing its speed: she was struck by two torpedoes in the aft machine space area. Time was 11:48 pm.

So, in only eleven minutes, the quasi-entire cruiser force had been annihilated.

Its supply mission failed, Tanaka withdrew, leaving Takanami which sank at about 1:30 am.

On the American side this went dramatic: Northampton had soon to be given up and sank at about 3:00 am.
Minneapolis, New Orleans and Pensacola were severely damaged. After a heroic fight of the damage control parties, they were able to crawl by their own power to Tulagi harbor, to get emergency repairs.
Pensacola was seriously damaged: the torpedo had caused such extensive damage aft that the heavy cruiser's stern was barely attached to the rest of the ship and swayed gently with the current. A few frames, some hull plating, and one propeller shaft were practically all that still held the aftermost section to the rest of the ship. He was able to sail to Nouméa on one shaft and was temporarily repaired by Vestal (one of the most outstanding job done by this repair ship during the Campaign) and went back to Mare Island for a six months reconstruction.
The two other cruisers were " patched " with a temporary bow of steel and coconut logs and sailed back later by their own power to Mare Island for reconstruction.

This battle ended as a new tactical victory for the Japanese: however, the supply of Guadalcanal had failed.
Wright got an award for his bravery and some critics later went on Cole, destroyer squadron commander who had failed to launch their torpedo attack in time.
At that time the Americans did not know the exceptional characteristics of the Japanese torpedo “Long Lance” and had not taken in account the great inferiority of their own torpedoes. Furthermore, their artillery used a powder type which generated flashes during firing, immediately revealing their ships position in the dark.
This battle drove a Staff reflection, which soon asked for improvements on these points. The US Navy got later benefits, particularly during the battle of Surigao Strait during the night of October 25th, 1944.

The diorama:
I got the idea of building a diorama when discovering long ago the famous pictures taken the next day in a small bay of the Northeast coast of Tulagi. Many are available on NavSource, the ever-excellent source for USN ships pictures.
Minneapolis is anchored right close to the shore, her damaged bow folded down under him.
She’s down by the bow by a good metre.

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The submarine repair ship USS Ortolan is busy near the bow. Underwater workers are cutting it out.

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Here's USS Widgeon (ASR-1), the lead ship of Ortolan's class with the same 1943 configuration as I want for my dio.
Note the dive bell on fantail.

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This bow is still there, about 19m deep, upside down. Scuba divers often do her a visit:

http://www.michaelmcfadyenscuba.info/vi ... age_id=752

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The cruiser had taken a lot of water: pumps are “spitting” all around.
To lighten the ship the crew is throwing material overboard: searchlights from the midship platform, 5” guns shields…
Finally, the cruiser was covered with camouflage nets with palm trees vegetation to make her almost invisible from air reco.

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Kits selection:
The only 1:700 scale kit Minneapolis (Combrig, resin) shows her in her 1943 post-reconstruction fit, with open bridge, thus wasn’t compatible any more with the 1942 version. I needed a kit of a sister ship with flat sided turrets (the first pair of this class had turrets identical to those of the Northampton because they had been ordered before the project wasn’t deeply improved).
The only possible choice was the kit of USS Astoria (Combrig).
Since the beginning of my project, Trumpeter produced practically all the New Orleans class in injected plastic. I was too much involved in my project and I decided to keep going with the Combrig kit, which is better with thinner details.

About the USS Ortolan, a quick search on NavSource told me she was modified version of an older Lapwing class minesweeper of 1918 and luckily enough, of the same class as the famous Pearl Harbor tug USS Vireo.
I thus got the Corsair Armada kit of Vireo and kit bashed her easily from Navsource pictures.

« Custom » improvements:
I designed and my own photo etched sets for both ships.
About Minneapolis: she had off-loaded her planes two days before and I wanted to have her hangar opened used as temporary repair workshop showing the internal structure. The Combrig kit being a little brief in this way, I designed the whole hangar from the official plans of Tuscaloosa (CA 37).

Original kit parts:

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Tuscaloosa plan:

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.. And my custom photo etched sheet:

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To be continued... :wave_1: :thumbs_up_1:
_Bruno

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Last edited by bgire on Mon Aug 02, 2010 10:24 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 11:15 am 
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Great to see you work again!

Guido

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 11:23 am 
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This has to be the creme de la creme of WIP's! :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :woo_hoo:






Bob Pink. :wave_1:


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 11:35 am 
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Continued... :wave_1:

Building the underwater body:

The main part of the job on both ships was to make them as full hulls. According to web diving sites, the water around Tulagi is transparent down to 8-10m and I wanted to show the bent and plunging bow of the cruiser.

For Vireo/Ortolan, no problem: NavSource shows a photo of a grounded sister ship, USS Pigeon. The hull was made from a longitudinal profile in PE taken in sandwich between two pieces of prototyping board, the whole sanded to shape.

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This gives in 1 :700 scale:

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I added the two wooden belts on each side. Those were added to the minesweepers when converted to heavy duty (repair) ships and are missing on the Vireo.

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For Minneapolis, I planned first to do the entire underwater body, then sawing the hull towards the break and finally adding “torn” sheet of plating around the breach. Also, it was necessary to dig a big hole port of boiler room nr2, then to make up the opening with crushed sheet plating.
During my working I was guided by those fantastic drawings annexed to the official damage report drafted for every ship and about which I shall speak later.

To build the hull of Minneapolis, here is my usual way which allows a very good precision of shape (less than .05mm) “without taking any checking measurement”.

First of all, using vector drawing software, I "traced" the couples from a USN official plan.

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Then I scanned the kit hull to make sure hull matches perfectly with the sections. Here, I’d to suppose the kit isn’t exactly following the official plans and show some slight variations in shape and dimensions. In that case, I’ll have to take the kit in account, rather than the “true shape”.

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From those drawing and picture I designed and etched a mini PE set out of .2mm brass.

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Now comes the assembly. First the resin hull is carefully packed with masking tape to protect it from unexpected violence…

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I start bow first. The brass sections are glued in place and the intervals are filled with slices of prototyping board, roughly cut a little oversize. I use cyano glue.
Prototyping board is a bonded polyurethane material, sold as boards of various thickness's, which is used to make professional mould template (in the automotive and other industries).
It gives all the good properties of soft wood, without the bad side (no fibrous structure). It is extremely stable, waterproof and can be very easily cut, sawn, carved, sanded, polished, painted and glued.

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Some steps farther with section 11:

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Detailing a step:
Reading the interval dimension, to be filled by slices of board:

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Scribing the « slices » on pre cut boards (I made a set of board 2 to 4mm thick):

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Rough cutting:

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And gluing.

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Ok, here we go to the end:

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And to the end of the end:

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A preliminary rough sanding gives us the shape.
Here comes the big advantage of this method. The board filling, although rigid, is softer than the brass sections. I just work with “blind sanding” (i.e. without checking for shape). When the sanding paper goes in contact with brass, this produces a specific “rattle sound”, along with a particular sensation in the finger tips. This warns me to stop sanding.
… And without any measurement checking I get a beautiful hull, less than .05mm from scale dimensions. What else?

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Now I do a wet polishing to reveal the hull beauty:

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Some Tamiya putty and another final polishing:

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Now I add the shafts, rudder and bilge keels. Propellers will be added later (reshaped spare parts from a Trumpeter USS Baltimore).
The 5" main belt is added on both sides of the hull.

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A coat of grey Resin primer to check again for defects...

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:wave_1: :thumbs_up_1:
To be continued next week-end...

_Bruno

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Last edited by bgire on Mon Aug 02, 2010 1:16 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 6:57 pm 
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:faint: is my first response and then when I come too, I commence this action :worship_1: As always fantastic work, wish I could do that in 1/350.

Matt

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 10:20 am 
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Wonderful work. I've got a Classic Warships New Orleans cruiser in 1/350th scale that I've kept aside for this exact diorama project. I look forward to your progress.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 10:44 am 
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Awesome!

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 11:31 am 
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Fantastic Bruno!!!!!!!

Another great grand project to follow with much interest!
Cheers,
Rui

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 06, 2010 9:45 am 
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Great to see you back Bruno! Again, I love seeing the dioramas that are challenging to do being done! Very interesting subject, seeing that this so far is the second diorama of the ship broken up. You never really get to enjoy modelling until you try a challenging and rare subject done...

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 4:08 pm 
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Continued... :wave_1: :thumbs_up_1:

Painting the hull:

I decided to paint the hull at that stage. I use airbrushing and it was easier to paint first and do the damages later.
Masking is done using Parafilm, my favourite masking material.

Minneapolis was painted overall Navy Blue when torpedoed. This is a little annoying as this mid dark blue grey shade, when used on a scale model, is too dark and will mask nearly everything: you’ll get a “dark-blue-block”.

The original paint had some reflective effect: period pictures often show a lighter shade under South Pacific sun.

Trying to correct this I decided to go for scale effect by adding white to lighten the paint.

My favourite « rule of thumb » (I don’t know about its origin and its « scientific » meaning… I just found it on some modelling forums years ago) is:
« Add a percentage of pure white equal to the square root of the scale denominator »
For 1:700 scale, square root of 700 gives about 26, so I added about 25-26% of pure white.
Back in 2004 I experienced scale effect in real, by simultaneously photographing four plates sprayed with the same colour and arranged at intervals of 1, 10 and 50m from my digital camera under sunlight conditions in the country. Computing with the YRB components of the pictures, I was able to draw an “approximate” toning down curb and I extrapolated to smaller scales. This gave me about 23% with a 5% error margin for 1:700, sooo I didn’t fell short of the other method!

Before painting, I did the hull strakes with automotive type primer (Mr Surfacer 1000).
I masked half the strakes, sprayed two coats of primer, took-off the masking tape immediately and let it dry overnight. I finished with a very slight polishing... et voila!

Image

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Painting of the hull: WEM toned down paint for red, my own Tamiya acrylics mix for Navy Blue. Big weathering followed (Tamiya weathering sets), as the cruiser had been in those warm waters for months since her last dry docking.

Masking with Parafilm. This film is transparent so it allows you to see where the waterline must be traced with a pen is.

Image

[IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y205/bgire/Diorama-Minneapolis-Tulagi/USSMinneapolis-27.jpg[/IMG

One coat of (WEM) Norfolk anti fouling:

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Upper hull: my Tamiya acrylics own mix of Navy Blue with scale effect.
Painting:

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Boot topping:
Masking:
To get true parallel cuts I use two blades fitted together with proper spacing:

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Same with Deck Blue on… decks!

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Hull weathering:

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Et voila!

Image

Now the hull is ready… to be torpedoed!
To be continued next week...

_Bruno

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:31 am 
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:thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:






Bob Pink. :wave_1:


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 4:00 pm 
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Nice :thumbs_up_1:

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 2:32 pm 
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Continued...

Now comes the diorama.

I use to build all my 1:700 scale kits screwed on a thick, 28mm oak board with a « sea » above.
This gives a better look, counter act the bending often found with resin kits and add safety when handling these delicate models.
I wanted to keep the same “thick board” design, so I made a corresponding box from oak, 32x14x2.8cm.
This will host a 15mm deep “sea” made from transparent resin, the type used by rail road makers.

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As for the shore, I searched through scuba diving websites for the exact location, as I learned the bow wreck is now a favourite diving target.
I zoomed in Google Earth (by chance, this area has been recently updated to a higher resolution) on this little creek, about 8km SE from Port Tulagi, Solomon Islands.

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Unfortunately for my building, civilization has developed since 1942: more buildings, less vegetation. I’ll only keep the shore geometry and rely on period pictures for trees…

I noted the scuba-diving site told of muddy bottom under the bow with plenty of WW2 litter and trash… I’ll keep that for a later use when detailing and painting.

Relief is done with a mixture of Gesso (painter’s acrylic primer) and small gravels (cat litter - mine was OK to give some). When dry the shore was covered with another smoothing layer of Gesso, then glued and spread with sand and grass flocking.

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The sea bottom is now painted in ochre (mud). I used a darker shade to enhance the deep effect. I used Polly scale Concrete and Aged concrete acrylics for a convincing result.
The diorama wooden box then was filled with plenty of resin layers from this brand:
http://www.unrealdetails.com/index.php? ... 2&Itemid=2
After lengthy and unsatisfactory trials with other « water like » resins, I finally found this brand which has two huge advantages:
- It cures in 24 hours per layer, so doesn’t raise in temperature (heat will damage the models)
- When cured, it remains somewhat elastic, like hard rubber: this prevent visible shrinkage which could have made such a large amount of resin go off the diorama box and would have compressed and crushed the enclosed models.

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I add some litter and trash (PE spare) according to the scuba diving website (see above)

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To give a « depth » effect and make this « sea » deeper than it is, the resin layers (2-3mm each) are first heavily tainted (blue-green), then the amount of colouring decreases in the next layer up, until the last four which go untainted.
Another challenge was to give the illusion of deep water on the “open sea” side of the diorama box.
I poured a first layer (strongly coloured with some drops of Humbrol enamel) and gave the box a 45° inclination during the curing, so the layer would “mask” the wooden side.

Here the red line is the planned limit of water :

Image

Image


To be continued... :wave_1:

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Last edited by bgire on Tue Oct 26, 2010 4:42 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 6:51 am 
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...to be followed!
:wave_1:

Cheers,
Rui

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:05 am 
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Location: turning into a power-hungry Yamato-models-munching monster... buahahahaha...
That looks already fantastic, even without the ships! Thanks for sharing.

Jorit

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:54 am 
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Very intruiging!!!! :woo_hoo:




Bob Pink. :wave_1:


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 3:01 pm 
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Thank God! I was wondering what had happened to Bruno Shipyards!

Personally, I love the beach. I've been experimenting on different mixes of standard brown liquid, water soluble paint, because I don't have an airbrush, so I'm using an average spray bottle. The foliage is also outstanding! Nice work!!! :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 5:54 pm 
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Question: Is the Prototyping board possibly what we in the States call Butter Board or some other name? I've done a Google search and the only prototyping boards I can find online or locally (in NYC) is the plastic sheets used for building test electrical circuits.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:06 am 
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Devin wrote:
Question: Is the Prototyping board possibly what we in the States call Butter Board or some other name?


I did a Google search and I found it is called "tooling board" in English.
I use polyurethane tooling board.
When machining, sanding or sawing this product must be wetted or used under a light water flow to avoid dust which is very irritating.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 7:00 am 
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Impressive stuff !! :thumbs_up_1:

Is the Mare Island dio on hold ...?

Intrigued...


JIM B

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