The Ship Model Forum

Hello, and welcome to my first ship build. For a first ship, I was recommended Tamiyas 1/350 Prince of Wales and I was able to get one cheap at a local hobby shop. As this is a first ship, I'll be building OOB with maybe one or two parts replaced. I would have preferred to do the PoW in the configuration during her battle with the Bismarck, but I understand that the model is supposed to be at the time of her demise, but if I finish her (no pun intended) in that camouflage I'll have to see how things go. Enough of my babbling, on to the build.
Up first is the box and hull.


I replaced the prop shafts with brass rod as the plastic parts weren't round, doesn't look not to bad I think, used a bit to much glue though.


Then I did the main guns, and drilled out the barrels. I hope you can see, I'm still learning how to take pics.


Finally a couple of cranes.


Along the hull there are these holes, see pic below, what are they and should I drill them out ??


Next I’ll be adding the ship deck to the hull.

Any advice or comments (good or bad) welcome.
Hope to see you soon, I'll be on holyday next week, so not much progress expected in the coming weeks, but at least I've made a start...

Drilling them out is up to you. They appear to be portholes. Personally, I would lightly drill them (i.e. not all the way through) and then paint the corresponding holes black, to give a better appearance of them being actual portholes. Of course, you could just drill them out, and leave them alone, since they would be black after that any way... Or, you could just paint them black...too many choices, in my opinion.

The work so far looks good.

Just remember to enjoy the process. IMO, the experience of building a model is every bit as important as the outcome.

they are portholes and its up to you if you want to drill them out. personally i do,i used a 1mm bit for my KGV see gallery
regards
leigh

Interesting to see how coarse the propeller shaft glands are even in 1:350!
Here's the real thing!


This is the port outer shaft.

The starboard inner is not so healthy after the Japanese intervention!





Andrew

If you drill out the port holes all the way you might consider adding styrene strips inside the part in order to hide the light coming from the port holes on the other side of the part. This is really useful on the bow and stern area where the two sides are close together and also on superstructures for the same reason.

Hope that helps a bit

Sylvain

_________________
Ventis Secundis

or alternately what i do is drill them then put electricians black insuletion tape behind them, works a treat to keep light out,

leigh

Woohoo, we have a brave man starting first ship model with POW!!!

I have done the same but with other ship so I will be watching your progress with much interest. Wishing you a LOT of inspiration to get this kit into the attractive model

Yevgeniy

Ever think about doing hull plating? It is actually not a very hard process. It is pretty straight forward. Just a little elbow grease.

I'm baa-aack. Before I go any further I'm checking if I have all the right paints. I don't trust the Tamiya names and mixes.
Light grey, medium grey, light grey/green, medium blue, dark grey green, dark ultramarina blue, bottom color. Are these proper names, or are they Tamiya names ??
Is there a "list" with the correct colours, preferably WEM ??


No, it hadn't occured to me, how do you it ?? I suppose I would need some plans or something ??
Could you or someone else provide some more information please ??
David.

I'm using Warship Perspective Vol 4, Colorcoat's Ms 1, B 5, B 6, 507 c, 507A for metal decks. Tam. paint is only slightly similar. Also depends on your time-frame? The deck seams are a beach, you might want to glue the deck together on an under-deck (.30 plastic) & fill seams w/ Tam. surfacing putty(wipe off excess w/ Tam. thinner on Q-tip). Before you attach to hull. Look at the KGV's in the various galleries, almost impossible to hide the seam. Good Luck! jc

Well, I'm back again, hopelfully the next post wont be a year. But with a third almost due, it easily could be.

Ok, a bit more progress on the POW. Decided to drill the portholes, but against adding hull plating, maybe on a future project.
The Hull and deck are primed with Halfords grey primer, the structures with WEM Colourcoats.

The props are attached to the shafts which are not glued in place. Had to slighty reshape the ship to get the rudder to fit.



The deck. Hopefully I'll be able to hide the seam of the rear section of the deck. Managed ok of the front section.


The deck resting on the hull, not a perfect fit at the bow.



A start on the various structures.




Comments, criticism, and suggestions welcome.
David.

Looking good, I built this in 1-700 and killed it by going mad with the weathering, the superstructure joints will have to be filled and carefully filed/sanded so you'll only see the intended straight angle of the structure. The drill bit you're using for the port holes, buy yourself some PVA glue, the same stuff they use for art work, wood work, its cheap and trust me, it will come in very, very handy. Anyway, drill the same holes into a test piece of plastic, the same stuff people these days call styrene, drill into, or drill out it doesn't really matter as this is only going to be a test piece. Once you're happy, using a piece of wire slightly smaller then the drilled hole, pick up a small dab of PVA and carefully place just inside the hole and wipe up as you remove it, you're actually leaving a very small arch of PVA glue, or eyebrow over each porthole, PVA glue will dry clear, not a problem as you're painting the hull anyway.
The best tip anyone can give you, is get yourself a good PE kit.

A small update, fitted the deck to the hull.

Great start

looking forward to more updates, keep up the good work

Si

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Simon Heathwood

Just a quick question, should I use MS 1 Very Dark Grey for the steel decks ??
David.

David
Hopefully this doesn't make life complicated for you but you can build the kit as in the Bismarck chase, in fact the differences were very minor. She had no radar at the time, and also UP launchers on B turret (x 1) and X turret (x 2 side by side), also no oerlikons. You can get UP launchers from White Ensign.

Painting scheme was overall mid grey, steel decks dark grey and wooden decks teak, although there is a little debate over this last point.

Enjoy your modellling!

Mike

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Starling Models

http://www.starling-models.co.uk

David,
one idea to increase the detail is to open up one of the hanger doors and build internal detail, if you decide to do this don't forget to extend the rails into the hanger

Roy

_________________
IPMS Fine Waterline special interest group www.finewaterline.com

Are there any pics of this ??
If there are no oerlikons, was there anything in its place ??


Which parts do I need to leave off ??

If it is that, dare I say it, simple, I might do the modifications. But this does raise another question, what were her colours at that time ??

David.

david
On this page, third one down.

http://www.hmshood.com/ship/aaa.htm

Having looked at again there is a little work required removing all the oerlikon tubs, which would mean a bit of patching up of the deck and superstructure where they currently are on the kit. It kind of depends how much you want to do a Bismarck Chase fit?

Colours are as on my post above

Mike

_________________
Starling Models

http://www.starling-models.co.uk

Hi mike, thats what I thought, and it doesn't seem to be much extra work.
I presume the pompoms on midships would be there.


Would that translate to AP 507B for the mid grey and AP 507A for the steel decks ??
Thanks,
David.