The Ship Model Forum

On the above pic there is a molded-on detail near the top of the funnel - in line with the second foot-rail from the top. Is that a poorly defined and molded on steam pipe, or a platform requiring railing?

Drasticplastic, You are right, it is a platform and there is railing for it in the Aoshima photoetch set. I missed it. I don't think that I will go back and add it as I have a bit of hand shake and avoid reaching over any in-place photo etch or detail. Something to add if I build a second Exeter. Thanks.

Added a couple of funnel support wires, should have used two for each funnel. Not trying to replicate the actual funnel support arrangement on the ship, just trying to get the effect. As a friend once told me, “we are building models not replicas.” I try to hide the deck holes for the wires by putting them behind something on the model or adding a random ammo or storage locker in front of them. Also, an aircraft wing hides the poorly repaired broken seam on the aft funnel.

Rigged the mast supports before installing the masts, unhappy with the kit plastic parts so next time I will use bronze rod. Used photo etch for the anchor chain, surprisingly easy but tiny! Shown in the third picture is my method for maintaining tension on the UNI-Caenis thread during rigging. Finally, the rigging and flag are done, but I don’t like the look of the flag so I think that I will redo it with a smaller flag. The kit flag decals are not useable so I went to the spares box. I also have a spare flag from a Flyhawk kit. All the photo etch has been added and the end is in sight.

How do you clip off the ends of the rigging so neat and close to the yard arms? I always get annoying little nubs sticking up! When I use stretched sprue, a drop of liquid glue will eventually melt through (with a bit of encouragement!) and leave a flush surface.

Really nice, clean work.

Hi Drasticplastic, I use a razor blade to cut the rigging, which is under a little tension during the cut.

Aoshima photo etch radars attached to bronze rods and then the bronze rods were inserted into the mast tubes. 4.5 inch guns have been glued in place, the brass barrels are from Model Master and worked perfectly. I will add the 8 inch turrets once the model has been attached to the display base as I move the model with a finger or thumb on the turret bases and bottom of ship. Flag has been replace with a smaller one, leftover from a previous Flyhawk build.

Very sharp, clean build!

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Martin

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday." John Wayne

Ship Model Gallery

Lovely build!

Note though, that if you want to be truely historically faithfull for 1942 then there were no 20mm's in tubs atop either B turret or the aft (X?) turret. If this has been already mentioned, my apologies.

Below pic taken on Exeter at funeral service after Walrus crashed in India Ocean when on way to Singapore late 41 (And both tubs were found empty on her wreck.)

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“We are off to look for trouble. I expect we shall find it.” Capt. Tennant, HMS Repulse. 8 December 1941
“A review of the situation at about 1100 was not encouraging.” Capt. Gordon, HMS Exeter. 1 March 1942

To start with, I understand that Exeter likely did not have the 20mm guns in place at time of loss, but I elected not to leave empty holes. The 20mm guns are from the FineMolds Nano Dread series. UNI-Caenis is used for all rigging. For simplicity, I used Tamiya’s Ocean Effects Plate cut to size on a table saw, and then glued to an oak base. The underside of the plate is sprayed with 4 coats of Golden Phthalo Blue and then Tamiya Sky Gray. I gloss coated the top the top of the plate. I always gloss coat my ships to even out the various sheens before I dull coat. The gloss coat also tends to hide a few finishing sins. My gloss coat of choice is Mr. Color UV Cut GX diluted with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. It dries fast and provides a rock-hard coat. If you spay too much, too fast it will lift the paint, so some care is required. I dull coated with Vallejo Satin mixed with a little Vallejo Matte three times over 3 days. The model is attached to the plate using silicon adhesive. This is an easy kit to build and the Aoshima photo etch is easy to work with. From my Navy days, FINEX.

She came out great. I can move this over to the completed forum, if you'd like.

_________________
Martin

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday." John Wayne

Ship Model Gallery

Yes Martin, please move. Thanks!

Very nice and clean. Well done!

Agreed, BEAUTIFUL build!!

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“We are off to look for trouble. I expect we shall find it.” Capt. Tennant, HMS Repulse. 8 December 1941
“A review of the situation at about 1100 was not encouraging.” Capt. Gordon, HMS Exeter. 1 March 1942

Wow, exquisitely clean and crisp. That's really nice, Rich.

Really nice job on this one!

A long-overdue question: If I wanted to build a 1939, Battle of Plate, were there many structural changes? Probably less AA to start with.

Many changes, only pole masts (not tripods), no HACS, single instead of twin 4", etc, and the list goes on. Much better / easier to start with a 1939 version of the model than try to back-fit a post Plate modification model.

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“We are off to look for trouble. I expect we shall find it.” Capt. Tennant, HMS Repulse. 8 December 1941
“A review of the situation at about 1100 was not encouraging.” Capt. Gordon, HMS Exeter. 1 March 1942

Is there a decent plastic 1939 version of Exeter? Would like to pair one with Flyhawk Ajax.