Minor progress on the SSG Grayback last night:
1) All white-metal parts sanded to eliminate molding lines, and prop guards thinned in thickness. Been examining photos of the Grayback/Growler sails (although they were different heights) for other indications of antennas and scope/radar details.
Any suggestions for what best to use to prime these white metal parts for painting with acrylics?
2) Ordered alternative props and propeller shafts and bracing from YMW via Freetime Hobbies. The kit requires scratchbuilding of the prop-shaft bracing as it does not include parts for such (although does give dimensions in the instructions. The YMW parts will serve as templates for scratchbuilding or direct replacements. I'll be interested to compare the propeller shaft dimensions between the kit parts (wire that must be cut to length) and the YMW parts.
3) Sanded the bow and stern fins to prepare for priming. With the missile on deck, archival photos show the bow planes always stowed in the raised position. Most full hull displays show submerged submarines.
Do I get cute and display one side of the model plane up, the other plane down? I'm leaning toward planes up. One of the resin planes has a small ding in it, now puttied and drying for sanding to form.
4) Measured the hull for mounting lamp risers for a pedestal mount display. I still need to secure two lamp risers and prep a base for display.
5) Continued to treat the molding line on the top deck and the pour stub line on the hull bottom. Both have now received two coats of Mr. Surfacer 1000, heavily thinned, with fine grit sanding in between. It is an odd place to find a mold line, and given the other details on deck, has required some patience to address:
A note on the above - I bought Mr. Surfacer 1000 liquid putty with high hopes, and have not really figured out how best to use it until this build. It requires a great deal of thinner to really spread and cover; unthinned, it spreads some but not absolutely flat, and hardens to a glossy sheen that is difficult to sand smooth. I apply it with a brush over the seams on this build, let dry a minute, and then hit and smooth with multiple coats of thinner. Seems to finally be working as I expected. I'd welcome any other users thoughts on best way to apply...
6) Made plans to reattach the rudder to the hull - identifying the best way to clamp and brace while drying. The rudder is molded in place - I had thinned out some of the lines and shape as part of my initial sanding of the model. A chipmunk that found its way into my basement was spied and eviscerated by our cat, but not before the chase made hash out of my modeling area - a cascade of model boxes had been pushed down from storage above the model bench, knocking the sub hull to the floor, and snapping the rudder. Relatively clean break, but I'd like the repair to be as strong as possible.
7) Finished assembly of the Regulus II missile. There's a small piece of piano wire that extends through the missile body and provides stronger mounts for the wings than the resin - resin pin to hole connection provided by Waveline:
7) Thinking ahead to paint schemes, since that stage is not too far off. My visit to the Growler documents one option, intriguing for its black on classic gray on the work deck, as well as some black closer to the waterline on the pressure hull bulge. But here's an alternative scheme that will most likely win the day, notable for the black cut line on the stern and the soft edging between black and gray on missile deck bulge and the work decks (Photo is from NavSource.org):
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