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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 11:08 am 
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Location: campbell river.b.c canada
hi all,this is what i decided to do for port holes.i found a buch of small brass circles that are use in making jewelry these fit in the holes in the hull.3 cents each. for the eyebrows i wraped .020 styrene rod around a brass tube that is the right dia. for the holes.i heated it up a bit with a lighter to make it keep its shape.after slipping it of the tube i cut it with sissors,this made a bunch of circles,which where then cut in half.the holes in the hull are done in four passes,#1 poke a small hole with a scribe. #2drill a small hole. #3 drill the correct dia. hole. #4counter sink the hole to fit the brass rings.repeat 387 times, i am now cross eyed :big_grin:


Attachments:
File comment: poking a small hole with a scribe
p2.jpg
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p1.jpg
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File comment: counter sink
p3.jpg
p3.jpg [ 142.47 KiB | Viewed 1186 times ]
File comment: making eyebrow circles
p4.jpg
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File comment: after it is rolled on ,i heat it a bit
p5.jpg
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File comment: circles cut in half
p6.jpg
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File comment: eyebrows on hull,tacked on with white glue ,then i paint on a coat of future acryilic.to realy stick them on
p7.jpg
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File comment: brass inserts,they will not be added untill hull is painted ,i want them to stay brass color
p8.jpg
p8.jpg [ 97.58 KiB | Viewed 1186 times ]
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 11:58 am 
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Thanks for explaining your method Russ, the result is outstanding. :thumbs_up_1: I'm off now to count the number of portholes on my plans.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 1:56 pm 
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Location: Brasil
Hi Russ your hull looks superb!!!! :thumbs_up_1: :wave_1:


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 4:32 pm 
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Location: Mudgeeraba, Qld Australia
Very Very Smart Russ, thank you for sharing. Varyag too has plenty of "scuttles" as we called them in the RAN. :thumbs_up_1:

Andrew
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 6:57 pm 
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Isn't drilling little holes fun . :heh: I make nitrous oxide plates for race cars that requires drilling .020 holes in brass tubes .The portholes look great . :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 5:46 am 
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Location: Liverpool
Hi Russ port holes the bane of my life. I recall that when I last made the eye brows for a 1:128 KM Blucher I used very fine fuse wire or strands of fine copper wire removed from a length of cabling then as you have done folded them around a suitable diameter of tubing . Each to his own but your results look excellent.
Dave Wooley :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :wave_1:


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 3:19 pm 
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Andrew,

I have been wondering about the correct terminology for these small round windows. Although I have called them "port holes" all my life the BuShips blueprints call them "air ports."

In the US Navy "scuttles" are round hatches (typically 18" diameter) in decks or set into larger hatches.

Also, BuShips blueprints refer to the boiler exhaust pipes as "smoke pipes" although almost everyone calls them "funnels" or "stacks." I suspect that if we used the "official" terminology no one would know what we were talking about.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 11:59 pm 
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Yes,

In the RAN, and RN if I am not mistaken, they are called scuttles, and scuttles were ussually fitted with blanking plates on the inside and these were known as "deadlights", so called because they were used to cover the scuttle at night if the ship had been ordered to "Darken Ship", a very common order on the old HMAS Melbourne (Carrier) when we were night flying.

The older RN style ships that we had such as Vampire and Vendetta (Old school Darings), were also fitted with "Escape Scuttles". These were lareger than ordinary scuttles and contained no glass. They could be opened from inside the compartment and used as a form of emergency escape from the compartment. We used to have interesting competitions where, as midshipmen, we would go out through the wardroom escape scuttle, climb on to the upper deck and then run back down into the wardroom. The fastest would win a free beer from each person present in the wardroom :woo_hoo:

But we digress, we(I) should get back on topic :heh:

Sorry Russ :whistle:

Andrew
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 9:25 pm 
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Location: campbell river.b.c canada
thanks for the feedback guys,on the wild west coast of canada we call them portholes :big_grin: bilge keels have always given me fits.i hated cutting long slices in the hull,lot of chance of poping i plank.trying to fit a single piece of styrene or wood involved much cutting and fitting to get it to fit the hull curve.this is what i came up with.i used 3 strips of basswood,starting with a piece 1/8 by 1/8 in. this i glued to the hull in the right place,being a small sqaure strip it can bend in compound curves.after it came i piece 3/32 by 1/8 glued to the first piece,then one 1/16 by 3/32 glued to that one.i then trimed the ends and sanded it down a bit to smoth out the joins and it came out not to bad,and no cutting into the hull :smallsmile: now i have to fiqure out where the thru hull fitting are,so far i can not find any pics,there is one of sheer sunk at the doc but i think the holes one sees are from the salvage crews gaining access.


Attachments:
bk1.jpg
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bk2.jpg
bk2.jpg [ 106.52 KiB | Viewed 1062 times ]
bk3.jpg
bk3.jpg [ 139.82 KiB | Viewed 1062 times ]
bk4.jpg
bk4.jpg [ 118.81 KiB | Viewed 1062 times ]
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 10:45 pm 
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Location: Mudgeeraba, Qld Australia
Hi Russ,

A very nice approach to constructing the bilge keels :thumbs_up_1: I was contemplating the "pins in the bilge keel and drill the hull" method, but I think I like yours better. It certainly makes getting the initial line of the bilge keel correct much easier.

Getting timber the right size AND flexibility might be a challenge at 1/72 scale on a big ship - we will see.

Andrew
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(Dedicated scuttle supporter :cool_2: )

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 5:58 pm 
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Location: campbell river.b.c canada
hi andrew,laminating many small strips allows the wood to be bent and twisted fairly easy mine are three piece once they are glued on they are pretty tough i sanded mine pretty hard and they did not fall off. having built a few 1/192,1/200 ships i find it hard to get used to a bigger scale my brain seems to have 1/16" to the ft'. embeded in it .heres some progress on the rudder and prop struts.


Attachments:
File comment: 1/16" balsa skined with styrene
r1.jpg
r1.jpg [ 107.12 KiB | Viewed 1004 times ]
File comment: this is a ponce wheel they come in many differant spacings for making rivets
r2.jpg
r2.jpg [ 104.92 KiB | Viewed 1004 times ]
File comment: have to make sure which side the rivets will be on ,or you will have holes instead of bumps
r3.jpg
r3.jpg [ 140.66 KiB | Viewed 1004 times ]
r4.jpg
r4.jpg [ 100.95 KiB | Viewed 1004 times ]
File comment: i used to make my struts out of brass, but seeing my ship are static styrene does very nicely
s3.jpg
s3.jpg [ 107.3 KiB | Viewed 1004 times ]
File comment: after a little filling with bondo putty
ps3.jpg
ps3.jpg [ 137.03 KiB | Viewed 1004 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:16 pm 
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Looking geat , rudder is neet . :woo_hoo: Were did you get the ponce wheel ?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:27 pm 
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Location: campbell river.b.c canada
hi richard the pounce wheel is from floating drydock. it is in the much,much more stuff under tools.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 9:48 am 
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wonderfull job on shaft attachments
superb superb :woo_hoo:


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 6:36 pm 
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Location: campbell river.b.c canada
thanks every one for your comments.after the sub deck was glued on i took my sander and beveled the outer sides down by 1/16" this will give a little camber,i do not think it will be noticable ,but it is there.to get the decking to fit i had to build the rough assembly of the deck housing.it is balsa that will be skinned with styrene latter.the decking where it butts to each other worked out well as the seam will be under the widest part of the deck house.i will use contact cement to glue the deck on,this is tricky as if you make a mistake ,big problem.i will lay a sheet of paper down first then start at the bow and work back.


Attachments:
File comment: piece on top is to keep it sqaure
d1.jpg
d1.jpg [ 107.31 KiB | Viewed 922 times ]
d2.jpg
d2.jpg [ 124.89 KiB | Viewed 922 times ]
File comment: a look at the under side
d3.jpg
d3.jpg [ 131.04 KiB | Viewed 922 times ]
File comment: all the first decks
d4.jpg
d4.jpg [ 106.05 KiB | Viewed 922 times ]
File comment: this is the join in the decking
d5.jpg
d5.jpg [ 137.02 KiB | Viewed 922 times ]
File comment: the seam is now not visable,there are no plank lines yet and the decking is not glued down or trimed
d6.jpg
d6.jpg [ 138.52 KiB | Viewed 922 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 8:04 pm 
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Going really well Russ, and quickly too, well done. :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

Andrew
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 7:48 am 
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very fast job and precise Russ :wave_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 7:49 pm 
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Location: campbell river.b.c canada
hi all scratch builders,deck is installed ,still have to make plank length lines,i tried my very fine micron pen,it works great on my other decking ,but the stuff i am using this time has very faint glue lines ,almost a dark grey,i tried a lead pencil it seems to be close the the glue lines.i will try it on a piece of scrape later and see what ever one thinks before doing the deck.


Attachments:
File comment: there are no visable joins anywhere to be seen,makes me a happy camper
d1.jpg
d1.jpg [ 116.01 KiB | Viewed 861 times ]
d2.jpg
d2.jpg [ 134.76 KiB | Viewed 861 times ]
File comment: a piece of half round styrene,this matchs the rolled sides of sheer pretty close
d3.jpg
d3.jpg [ 95.68 KiB | Viewed 861 times ]
dd1.jpg
dd1.jpg [ 133.52 KiB | Viewed 861 times ]
File comment: this decking is from blue jacket shipcrafters as close to real planks i have seen i little pricey thou.
dd2.jpg
dd2.jpg [ 119.28 KiB | Viewed 861 times ]
dd4.jpg
dd4.jpg [ 123.27 KiB | Viewed 861 times ]
dd5.jpg
dd5.jpg [ 131.66 KiB | Viewed 861 times ]
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 9:06 pm 
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Location: Mudgeeraba, Qld Australia
Wow Russ, those planks look really good :thumbs_up_1:

It must have been a painstaking task to secure each individual plank and to keep the lines straight, well done.

Andrew
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 12:26 am 
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Location: campbell river.b.c canada
hi andrew, i can not take credit for indivdual planks it comes in a glued up sheet 3"by 22" about 1/16" thick.i have tried planking before cutting my own planks but it is not my forte.i have the great'st admiration for the guys who lay there own decking,it is a very time consuming finicky process.


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