Scratchbuilding USCGC DUANE 1943

Fully Documented builds that have been completed and moved from the Online Scratchbuild section.

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Reid
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Post by Reid »

Ron are you going to pannel her like the Moffett for are u going to try somehting new??
Reid, PIO of the 48th Fleet
http://www.48thfleet.com
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J. Soca
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Location: About 50 miles away from the Gulf of Mexico ( traveling W is you do so :)

Post by J. Soca »

Superb Job!!! :thumbs_up_1:
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ARH
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Post by ARH »

Thanks guys, this stage of the build is not always pritty, but she is beginning to take shape, you have to have the ruff before the smooth, :jump_1: :jump_1:
Simple but effective.
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ARH
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Post by ARH »

Reid wrote:Ron are you going to pannel her like the Moffett for are u going to try somehting new??

YES and YES, :wave_1: :wave_1: :thumbs_up_1:
Simple but effective.
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JWintjes
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Location: turning into a power-hungry Yamato-models-munching monster... buahahahaha...

Post by JWintjes »

Looking already very ship-like, Admiral! :thumbs_up_1:

And I really like the way you do the rudder - I have to remember that.

Jorit
Image
TommyL
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Post by TommyL »

JWintjes wrote:Looking already very ship-like, Admiral! :thumbs_up_1:

And I really like the way you do the rudder - I have to remember that.

Jorit
That neat trick of the rudder stuffing box was done on the Iron Duke. None the less its still a good point to hammer into peoples minds. Nice going admiral.

TommyL.
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Reid
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Post by Reid »

Ron you "yes and yes" so you are going to do the litho plate but a different way!!! I can't wait to see. :thumbs_up_1:
Reid, PIO of the 48th Fleet
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ARH
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Post by ARH »

Hi Guys, Before I put the deck on, just a few little things to do. This is the size of the battery I will be using, so we need to know if we can get it in and out of the model through the hole for the superstructure.



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I have added 2 sections of timber that is the same width as the superstructure.


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I have shaped it for the camber of the deck, also the shear of the hull.


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Next was to fit a servo for the rudder and a linkage arm.



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A bit of a close up, make sure the servo arm and the tiller arm are parallel to each other.

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Simple but effective.
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Dave Wooley
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Post by Dave Wooley »

Hi Ron Great to see the rudder and rudder servo in place, next step the deck ?
:thumbs_up_1: :wave_1:
Dave Wooley
H.A. Baker

Scratchbuilding USCGC Duane 1943

Post by H.A. Baker »

Good day to the Squire Ron,

Tell me you haven't. You haven't stuck your rudder servo in with filler have you? Apart from that, you're certainly cracking on with this one. She'll be ready for the September meeting at this rate.....Yes?

Keep it up Ron Lad, you're an inspiration to all of us scratchbuilders. Where did I put that flea powder?

HAB
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ARH
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Post by ARH »

Morning Howie, I always do , never have a problem with servo,s coming loose, I will be able to get at it if need be because its under the rear gun implacement which will be removeable. :wave_1: :wave_1: :thumbs_up_1:
Simple but effective.
middle_watch
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Location: S Yorks, England

Post by middle_watch »

The clamps look useful for setting the mid-point, are they purpose bought or ripped out of chocolate block? they look a bit like the chocolate block inserts but I cannot figure how they could then be fitted to the arms and be free to rotate. All my model shop offer are some awful plastic snap on devices, work fine the first time, but you need to take them off to adjust the length and then they won't lock back into place and have to be replaced. I had been thinking of taking the pins out of 13 amp plugs and cutting off the blade, it leaves a short round shaft that I thought could be cut with a thread or perhaps rivetted over to form what you have there, the wire capture screw being used to hold a rod.
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Laurent
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Post by Laurent »

Hi Admiral ,

I'm just reading a wonderful book , "Lives of the liners" , written by a Franck O. Braynard , back in 1947 , telling some stories about the most known ( and some unknown ) liners during WW2 .

I quote ( he tells a story about the liner "Oriente" , renamed "Thomas H. Barry" while commissioned by the USN ):

"As the Barry , the Oriente experienced one other newsworthy event in her Army career . Early in 1946 , while approaching New-York , one of the war brides she was carrying was stricken with respiratory paralysis.

An Army plane flew an iron lung from Halloran General Hospital , New-York , to Argentia , Newfoundland , where it was transferred to the Coast Guard cutter Duane . This speedy little vessel , a veteran of many U-boat battles and the Allied landing on the Southern Coast of France , delivered the lung to the Barry , a hundred miles at sea .

The bride , it might be added , recovered ..."

end of quote

I'm pretty sure you didn't know about that ...

Another part of Duane's history ...

Regards ,

laurent
Scared of Nothing , Always Thirsty

Just call me the "Cereals Box Killer" , I guess :big_grin:
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ARH
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Post by ARH »

Thanks , very interesting :wave_1: :thumbs_up_1:
Simple but effective.
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Reid
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Post by Reid »

what was cool. What a nice suprize!!!
Reid, PIO of the 48th Fleet
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ARH
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Post by ARH »

Hi Guys, I have marked out the deck and positions for superstructure and guns and forward anchore winches on my 1/32 ply wood deck.




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A second overhead shot, the deck is not fastened down yet, there is still work to do inside.

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I have cut out for the access under the superstructure.


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Depending were you take a photo,from the bow the stern looks shorter , from the stern it looks larger.


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This is the cut out to gain access to the rudder sevo, above it will be a 5 inch 51 gun.



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enjoy, ARH :wave_1: :wave_1: :thumbs_up_1:
Simple but effective.
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Jefgte
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Post by Jefgte »

:wave_1:

Did you add planking on the deck or varnish plywood?

Nice ARHtist work

:thumbs_up_1: :lol_spit_1: :wave_1:


Jef :lol_spit_1:
Current 1/700 WL
HMS Repulse
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ARH
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Post by ARH »

Jef, The deck will be planked, and metal near the bow. :thumbs_up_1:
Simple but effective.
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ARH
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Post by ARH »

Hi Guys, This is how I make my running gear.

I purchase 2 sets of 14 inch shafts, and the shortest set for the bushes I need for the suport A frame near the prop, altogether they cost �24-00 or $48.00.


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I take out the shaft and the bush and cut down to size the outer cassing. I then put back the bush in the cut down outer shaft and replace the long inner shaft ,leaving off the washer and nut for the time being.


Image


enjoy, ARH :wave_1: :wave_1: :thumbs_up_1:
Simple but effective.
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ARH
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Post by ARH »

middle_watch wrote:The clamps look useful for setting the mid-point, are they purpose bought or ripped out of chocolate block? they look a bit like the chocolate block inserts but I cannot figure how they could then be fitted to the arms and be free to rotate. All my model shop offer are some awful plastic snap on devices, work fine the first time, but you need to take them off to adjust the length and then they won't lock back into place and have to be replaced. I had been thinking of taking the pins out of 13 amp plugs and cutting off the blade, it leaves a short round shaft that I thought could be cut with a thread or perhaps rivetted over to form what you have there, the wire capture screw being used to hold a rod.


This is what I use Middle watch,


Image



enjoy, ARH :wave_1: :wave_1: :thumbs_up_1:
Simple but effective.
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