The Ship Model Forum

Hi to everyone. I'm new here. Hope have not missed any step before posting this topic.

I'm from Italy so sorry for my not english maybe not all correct. I'll try to do my best.

I'm a ship modeller since I was 10/15 years old, but 25 years ago I was not very able to do everything showed in the instructions and I didn't have all the instruments I've now.

So I decide to redo all my tamiya 1/350 ships, not in hurry.
For removing the dust, I made the Trumpeter Roma 1/350 this summer/fall.
Now I've decide to do a modern warship I've always wanted to do since I was young.
An Arleigh Burke class.
I bought the trumpeter DDG-98 Forrest Sherman plus the Pontos expansion and I'll do the DDG-111 Spruance.



I say a thing before: I',m not an expert so be patience with me. I've never made a wathering effect and this model will be the first one on whitch I'll try to do the wathering.
Let's start with the first steps with the hull




I'd like to spray a primer on the pontos sheet (above all for the decals to add on the surface deck of the ship)



I used the Vallejo primer for the last ship but it took off when I removed the tape after painting. And I'd like a grey color instead black. Any suggestion?



Let's begin to remove all the extrusions on the plastic parts

I wouldn't use a Vallejo or other water-based primer - I've never read anything good about them, and they seem not much better than simply applying an extra coat of the top coat to serve as the base.

If you're thinking of using the primer for mainly the Pontos pieces, there are dedicated metal primers that have more bite. Examples include Mr Metal Primer from Mr Hobby and Tamiya Metal Primer.

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De quoi s'agit-il?

Thank you for your suggest. Di you think I can use the primer you've indicated with airbrush?

The Tamiya one's description says it can be airbrushed, though it also comes with a brush in the cap for application on smaller areas.

Mr. Metal Primer does not mention airbrushing, but does not come with a brush in the cap, so I imagine that's how you'd have to use it (or use your own brush).

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De quoi s'agit-il?

for shiny metal parts best is epoxy primer used on automobile industry.
But this is in spray can be used with caution as may block tiny holes like rails etc

I use a normal grey Tamiya paint as primer on PE and tape does't cause any problem. Of course any touching with metal objects is to be avoided.

well, thanks for the adivices.
The shop dealer has suggested me this one. Hope havingo not made a mistake. I'll try before on the hull to learn the pressure for avoiding too much quantity sprayed



In the meanwhile let's do the holes on the sides of the hull




I've noticed a not perfect line up between the two parts of the hull.
I think I've to use the putty tamiya to align the two parts.
It's the first time also for this! Finger crossed!!!

Intresting job. The Pontos set is very good, it sure results in a good build.
There's an interesting Koppalakki construction here that might give you some guidance.

viewtopic.php?f=60&t=166129&hilit=Burke

In my gallery there are also two Burkes, the Momsen and the Mustin but they do not have specific photo-etched sets. I am currently with another build, the Uss Laboon.
I will follow your progress with interest.

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On workbench:
Uss Missouri 1/350 Tamiya
Russian SSBN Borei Class - K-550 Alexander Nevskiy




My Galery:
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html
Instagram: Tamboshipsmodels

Wow that topic is fantastic, but that user is unhuman!!!!
I'm not so able in the wathering like him!!!
Thanks for the link
I'll take as example in what I can do

I'm most definetly a human!

Good luck on your build and if you have questions I gladly try to help!

Hi Koppalakki, you're incredible. I've seen some of your models' and they are very very very beautiful.

Sure I'll take your work as example!

Tamiya primer in pray can is fine, I primarily use this primer for anything (plastic, resin, PE structures). Good cleaning, especially for resin, is always a good thing.

Try to build up thin layers, keep the can moving whilst spraying. Better some extra layers than too thick. It it is too thick, let it dray and sand it back. After priming I sand the larger/flat areas with 2000 to remove any loose paint particles. It will result in a little smoother surface.

Following with interest, good luck with the build!

- Bas

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In progress:
1/350 HNLMS Friesland D-812
1/350 USS San Francisco CA-38 1944 diorama

Finished:
My gallery

Thanks for the advice Bas. I've ended with the putty Tamiya. Sanded the hull.
Now I've thought to use the primer. I paint outside, not indoor. Do you think the temperature is quite good for spraying? Here during lunch time the temperature reaches 15°C
Or maybe have I to wait for a warmer climate?

Thanks

Here an upgrade
I've sprayed the hull with the primer.
I've continued with the main structure
It's not easy to bend the PE with the right angle.
I've put the windows without glue to see if it matches. I'm thinking about when I'll paint the wipers


I've a question if anyone knows: the red and blue lines means anything in particular?
For example first bend along red line, then the blue one or red line bends on the right and blue on the left.....


Because for the doors, bending the doors it's easy, but the third piece, on what side have I to bend?


last question: does anyone know if for numerous pieces there are some more (for example doors o handles) or are they numerically accurate?

Thanks a lot

They're just telling you it's to be bent in opposite directions - away versus towards you (in paper modeling terms, "valley fold" versus "mountain fold"). But they can't tell you that it's towards or away from you because they don't know which side you're putting as "up".

For the hatch, you're to fold them back-to-back in order to form one hatch with etched detailing on both sides. Then you can display the hatch as open or closed, with the frame on the bulkhead.

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De quoi s'agit-il?

Thanks Timmy.
For the hatch what's the inside face and outside one?
Or does't matter?

It's all meant to be one piece, so just fold along where they connect so that it's flat side to flat side. The "door frame" goes on the ship's bulkhead, the panel next to the frame would face the inside of the ship if depicted closed, and the panel farthest to the right is the one facing outwards if closed.

See example below showing one hatch open while its counterpart on the other side of the ship is closed:

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De quoi s'agit-il?

You're right.
I did a search but I didn't foundd anything!
As always, thanks a lot

Hi guys.
Here with an update of my topic.
Work and family take 99% of my time, so my model work proceeds, slowly, but proceeds.
I've ended with the hull panel. Hope having done a good job. When I'll cover with the colour, I'll discover.




In the meanwhile I've made some progress with the superstructure


Now I'm beginning to think to glue the main deck.
I've tried all the colors indicated in the instructions to find the differences between the colours, and I've found that they are very different.
So I ask for a suggest.
What colour do you think is close to the real one?



For me it's the Mr. Hobby nr. 305, and for you?

I'd vote for Mr Hobby No305 as well. Quite a difference wiyh the other colours indeed!

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The merchant shipyard