The Ship Model Forum

Good day fellow modellers,

I am in the process of building the battleships Kilkis and Limnos for Hellenic Models - in 1/350 and 1/700 scales. Does anyone know or have access to good sources on these ships? They were former US battleships, USS Mississippi BB-23 and USS Idaho BB-24, which were sold to the Greek Navy in the 1910s.

Thank you for your help!

_________________
We can have all of the resources in the world and still get it wrong. Not out of any incompetence, it's just because of how difficult it is sometimes to implement a physical feature without having seen it with your own two eyes. - the Chieftain

Mississippi (BB-23) http://www.navsource.org/archives/01/23.htm
Idaho (BB-24) http://www.navsource.org/archives/01/24.htm
have a look at this.

Already looked at those, it's a start but if I can get hold of something better, I will happily make use of it.

_________________
We can have all of the resources in the world and still get it wrong. Not out of any incompetence, it's just because of how difficult it is sometimes to implement a physical feature without having seen it with your own two eyes. - the Chieftain

look again as I just added a plan of the Mississippi.

Thanks that's really helpful!

_________________
We can have all of the resources in the world and still get it wrong. Not out of any incompetence, it's just because of how difficult it is sometimes to implement a physical feature without having seen it with your own two eyes. - the Chieftain

you are welcome.

Doesn anyone have access to photos of the base of the funnels for the Mississippi class? I've kind of hit a roadblock and haven't found any good one on navsource or the like. I wouldn't like to have to guess if I have something better to go with.

Thanks

_________________
We can have all of the resources in the world and still get it wrong. Not out of any incompetence, it's just because of how difficult it is sometimes to implement a physical feature without having seen it with your own two eyes. - the Chieftain

take a look at these.
https://catalog.archives.gov/id/45512772
https://catalog.archives.gov/id/45512770
https://catalog.archives.gov/id/45510783
https://catalog.archives.gov/id/31485797

Thanks. Will post some pictures of the model soon

_________________
We can have all of the resources in the world and still get it wrong. Not out of any incompetence, it's just because of how difficult it is sometimes to implement a physical feature without having seen it with your own two eyes. - the Chieftain

I have a copy of this....

warship profile Kilkis
it may or may not be of use to you as its quite old


https://www.islandrarebooks.org.uk/prod ... ek-kilkis/


and this chap built a model of the ship on 1/100 which may be helpful in places

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/2952-k ... ttle-ship/

Hope to help
Jim Baumann

_________________
....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com

Thank you Jim, I too have a copy of that book.

Thanks for the link to the 1/100 model, very helpful!

_________________
We can have all of the resources in the world and still get it wrong. Not out of any incompetence, it's just because of how difficult it is sometimes to implement a physical feature without having seen it with your own two eyes. - the Chieftain

and you will have the challenge of making cage masts that are believable

In 1/700 there are some producers making ' waisted ' cage masts that could be adapted
https://www.3dmodelparts.com/1-700-cage ... ttleships/

this was back 2014--I am sure that then can 3-D print Muuuuch finer nowadays...
http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/mi ... eview.html

In 1,350 I think as well ( model Monkey is in this forum)

https://www.facebook.com/10006326214730 ... 8576/?_rdr

or alternatively--in thin wire....

in 1/350 you could consider this; ( scanned 24 years a go form the PC Coker book Model warships(?)
( Kart Lautenschlager is the author of the Kilkis warship profile booklet.....( so its like a full circle.........!)
good luck
JB

_________________
....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com

Jim, thank you! I believe I've seen these photos somewhere else as well.
The cage masts have already been started actually, I'm giving it a first try and then do modifications if needed after the first test prints (which will take a while anyway). To start with, I've made them 0.4 mm in diameter, which I'd like to push through if they can sustain their own weight because it would make for a very fine and realistic cage mast (to give a perspective look, they should be less than half the thickness of the cage mast in 1/700 you've shown in your link, though in another scale. Just to give some visual reference, I will post pictures once I have some good ones). Though I'm afraid I might need to strengthen those if they show signs of bending or warping after printing, but we will see! The biggest challenge at the moment are the wire floors in between the various levels.

_________________
We can have all of the resources in the world and still get it wrong. Not out of any incompetence, it's just because of how difficult it is sometimes to implement a physical feature without having seen it with your own two eyes. - the Chieftain

maybe split the cagemast into 2 levels with 1 having the wire floors?

It's not that easy. Because it's not an external platform like the one for the rangefinders, it's inside the mast (the photo is older than the period I'm referring to, but contemporary - 1940s - photographs of the ship show the cage masts had not been tinkered with after installation three decades previously):

This is what the work I've done so far looks like:

The square mesh of the platform is supposed to go all the way through, it doesn't show very well due to the angle of the picture (also it looks a bit strange because of the perspective). The mesh wire is 0.6 mm in thickness and so are the holes created (squares of 0.6 mm).
Overall this is what the 1/350 and 1/200 foremast of Kilkis will look like, the 1/600 & 1/700 will obviously have slightly chunkier wires, but we try to push as thin as we can get away with against the printer.

_________________
We can have all of the resources in the world and still get it wrong. Not out of any incompetence, it's just because of how difficult it is sometimes to implement a physical feature without having seen it with your own two eyes. - the Chieftain

In 1/700 these platforms have been done by Toms modelworks

like this




if you bought some suitable generic sized 'grating' PE- from any source

cut the circles appropriate seize and drop them in from underneath-

( as the masts taper from large base to flared tip )
secure/glue at correct level
( you could print some very narrow ' nibs' to locate the brass platforms at correct intersection to the rings of the mast

move and adjust with mast off ship --with a ' stick' woth tiny bit of Blu-tak attached

If you are drawing these masts yourself for 3D printing--you can measure quite accurately the diameter
of the required circles,

and then attach some experimental / sacrificial one to a ' stick' and feed them down the mast from underneath to see if they need a bit of filing ?


HTH
JB

_________________
....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com

Jim, I think that's a great idea, the only issue I would have with that is: how can you fit the platform inside the mast? It's not like you can easily drop them in place from the top or bottom, and sliding them in from the side I don't see how they could fit. Maybe the largest one at the bottom, but there's no way you could fit the upper ones inside.

I could make the platform meshes even thinner than 0.6 mm and probably still get away with it, I'm gonna give it a try.

_________________
We can have all of the resources in the world and still get it wrong. Not out of any incompetence, it's just because of how difficult it is sometimes to implement a physical feature without having seen it with your own two eyes. - the Chieftain

looking at your photos...


Because the mast has its minimum in diameter at around 7/8 to the top--

the top platform is still below the narrowest part of the cage mast taper

I cannot see or understand.....( at this stage! )

why one could not put the smallest platform in -from ' below 'first'
then do the next on --still from below- and then the next--until you reach the lower one

-(you are effectively dropping circles into a funnel)

see image below and my description below
=======================================================

your 3-D print mast will be open at the lower/wide end

1) support the mast safely on its narrow top end

2) lower/ drop the top platform into mast first from below
adjust and install with a touch of matt varnish ( slightly tacky )-
-once stable back it up with droplets
of CA glue on the end of a 0.05 copper wire held in a pin-chuck ==> that steadies you and gives control

3)then the next-- from below --and secure as described above

4... and the next--all from below -and secure as described above

_________________
....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com

I had thought about it, it just seemed complicated because removing the base of the mast would leave the wire ends susceptible to damage. But then it occcurred to me that I could leave a ring on the outside and still have the base open for exactly what you described. Don't know why I haven't thought about it before, thanks for the suggestion

_________________
We can have all of the resources in the world and still get it wrong. Not out of any incompetence, it's just because of how difficult it is sometimes to implement a physical feature without having seen it with your own two eyes. - the Chieftain

take a look at this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxcTcmda6-w