modeling water
Moderator: JIM BAUMANN
-
David Phillips
modeling water
Could you give me some direction, hints, or links where I could find out how to "model" or sculpt water in rivers or oceans.
- Filipe Ramires
- Posts: 1185
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 5:56 pm
- Location: Lisbon, Portugal
Hi David,
Well depends of the type of water and sea you wish. I personally use Acrylic Gloss Medium Gel from Liquitex. It works fine (doesn't attack the paint) and you can shape it fairly when it's drying. Check my Oberon photos on the Picture Post section...that sea was made with that gel. You get the idea. Anyway, I am sure that many others here will share their experiences with you.
Good luck,
Filipe
Well depends of the type of water and sea you wish. I personally use Acrylic Gloss Medium Gel from Liquitex. It works fine (doesn't attack the paint) and you can shape it fairly when it's drying. Check my Oberon photos on the Picture Post section...that sea was made with that gel. You get the idea. Anyway, I am sure that many others here will share their experiences with you.
Good luck,
Filipe
"Build few and build fast,
Each one better than the last"
John Fisher
Each one better than the last"
John Fisher
- JIM BAUMANN
- Posts: 5689
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 5:30 pm
- Location: Nr Southampton England
Here is a link to an article that Jeff Herne did--right here at MW.com..!
http://www.modelwarships.com/features/h ... _water.htm
Rusty Whirte of Flagship models has a step by step photo CD available on making water
http://www.flagshipmodels.com/flagship/HowTo_CDs.html at $ 9.95( cheap!)
or you can make the water as I do...
In 1/700 scale I use Artists Watercolour paper which has a regular indented texture(try Winsor & Newton); firstly I cut the waterline profile out of the paper 0.5mm larger,this is done by placing the hull on paper and drawing round the hull with a sharp pencil ( before I even think about building the ship) then I stick to the base with eiter white glue or doublesided sticky tape. Build ship to the stage at which you are no longer happy to handle the ship,I ususally nount the ship in her sea before put on funnels or masts or photoetch. The ship is placed in the prepared cutout and screwed thru the base so that if it is a resin ship it prevents her warping. I then paint the sea in chosen base colour I add ships wake and bow-wave for (slow speed ) from white/PVA glue and build it up in stages. For medium speed I use Artists Acrylic gel/texture agent and shape it as it is drying. For a ship at high speed I use autobodyfiller for big wake and waves because it sets quickly (30-45 minutes!) so that I can carry on modelling!
In 1/350 scale if the ship is being shown in bigger waves I again use all the above techniques but glue the paper over bits of scrap wood to give the shape of the waves (remember to keep the wood bits clear of where the ship will go....) when the ship is finished ready for varnishing then I paint and drybrush the wakes and bow-waves, this is best left till last as the handling of the base will otherwise make the white go yellow....
I have also used succesfully white toothpaste(!) to really highlight white wavetops etc. cotton wool can be sued but do not use too much or the ship will look as if she is on a cloud....
Good luck
Jim Baumann
http://www.modelwarships.com/features/h ... _water.htm
Rusty Whirte of Flagship models has a step by step photo CD available on making water
http://www.flagshipmodels.com/flagship/HowTo_CDs.html at $ 9.95( cheap!)
or you can make the water as I do...
In 1/700 scale I use Artists Watercolour paper which has a regular indented texture(try Winsor & Newton); firstly I cut the waterline profile out of the paper 0.5mm larger,this is done by placing the hull on paper and drawing round the hull with a sharp pencil ( before I even think about building the ship) then I stick to the base with eiter white glue or doublesided sticky tape. Build ship to the stage at which you are no longer happy to handle the ship,I ususally nount the ship in her sea before put on funnels or masts or photoetch. The ship is placed in the prepared cutout and screwed thru the base so that if it is a resin ship it prevents her warping. I then paint the sea in chosen base colour I add ships wake and bow-wave for (slow speed ) from white/PVA glue and build it up in stages. For medium speed I use Artists Acrylic gel/texture agent and shape it as it is drying. For a ship at high speed I use autobodyfiller for big wake and waves because it sets quickly (30-45 minutes!) so that I can carry on modelling!
In 1/350 scale if the ship is being shown in bigger waves I again use all the above techniques but glue the paper over bits of scrap wood to give the shape of the waves (remember to keep the wood bits clear of where the ship will go....) when the ship is finished ready for varnishing then I paint and drybrush the wakes and bow-waves, this is best left till last as the handling of the base will otherwise make the white go yellow....
I have also used succesfully white toothpaste(!) to really highlight white wavetops etc. cotton wool can be sued but do not use too much or the ship will look as if she is on a cloud....
Good luck
Jim Baumann
....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html
IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html
IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com
- Francisco P. de Nanclares
- Posts: 306
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2005 5:30 am
- Location: Spain
OR....you can use good ol�silicone
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html
I will miss you Werner. Fair winds and following seas.- David Yarnell
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 3:39 pm
- Location: Philadelphia, PA
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You didn't say what scale you were working in but for 1/700 this is a pretty good article.
Its a little involved but the results are well worth the trouble in my opinion.
Best of luck...and as with anything else, practice, practice and then practice some more .
http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/%7Emokei/e-bui ... orce01.htm
David
Its a little involved but the results are well worth the trouble in my opinion.
Best of luck...and as with anything else, practice, practice and then practice some more .
http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/%7Emokei/e-bui ... orce01.htm
David
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