The Ship Model Forum

Hi everybody, today I completed the deck edge.



I used styrene strip 0.25 mm x 3.2 mm for this . In a previous step I did the junctions and it turned out they were a little to long and would lift the styrene strip. So I cut out at this section and used putty to fill and smoothen the gap. Masking tape was needed to provide a straight edge. It was removed befored the putty was completly dry. Sanding down after that was easy. You can see it still, but it is smooth and after priming it will be invisible.




Thanks for watching

Hi, the build is taking shape quite nicely, watching with interest,

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Simple but effective.

Thank you Admiral

I'm looking forward to do the mold in a couple days - if my family grants me some time for doing this...

Looks not exactly like fun putting to sea with these tin boxes. I can almost hear the noise coming from the bow...

Looking very nice, keep the updates coming! Makes me want one in 1/350!!

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-Abram
ModelWarships Gallery Page
Joslin Models Facebook Page

Just curious - waterline or full hull in 1/350?

Well, it looks like WEM has a kit that is full hull, but if I didn't get that I'm not sure, most likely full hull though, all of my other ships are full hull.

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-Abram
ModelWarships Gallery Page
Joslin Models Facebook Page

WEM? Yep - saw on their webpage. It is the successor type of what I'm building here. Quality looks suberb!

Interesting that they designate this ship as costal AA escort type F. I'm pretty sure, what they have is a AFP Type D-2. But I don't like nitpicking in this regard.

i really like the unusual always have and always will, great build so far
Have had the WEM kit in my sweaty palm for a quick look over, a few weeks ago, very nice clean and crisp with some good camo schemes.
I think your spot on with the D-2

Roy

Hi everybody - the last weekend was dedicated to the family but today I had some progress with my build.

As you know, I intend to build a silicon mold of the hull including the weatherdeck. On Artillery prams we have no forcastle and the superstructure will spread out from bow to stern. Anyway I have to have a somewhat "false deck" at bow and stern. I decided to built a box into the hull plug. For this I copied the drawing and marked the (almost) correct lines of the inner shape of the hull. It turned out quiet well - the red line shows the upper edge of the box.



I transfered the outlines of the drawings then to 1 mm styrene card and cut it out - one for the port side and another one for the starboard side.





I was then able to glue the sidewalls to the previous attached styrene strips as you can see here. Cutting the front and stern section was easy - I dont think you need an explaination for this.




The next step will be a tough one (for me) - creating a REALLY smooth and flawless surface to avoid afterwork with the casts... Wish me luck.

It is always helpful to have good original photos...

Answering your earlier question about a 1/350 kit, WEM produce a resin kit of what I think is an AFP - it's described as a "F-Lighter". Here's their 1/350 catalogue page, and a review of the kit on MW.com.

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Model Ship Kit Reviews

VERY NICE Peter! Although you fall apart of our beloved imperial vessels, your report is very interesting! But after that please return to those lovely three stack ships and leave those ugly tin-boxes...

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Uli "Torpedo" Setzermann

http://www.marine-forum.de - Das Kaiserliche Marineforum

Currently Building: SM TrpBt B-110, SM TrpBt S-37
Upcoming: SMS Derfflinger

yep torpedo, they are ugly and slow - but with one of these I will not find myself walking into a pond searching for a capsized and sunk model...

Nice to have around here again - will we see some updates for B 110?

The plug for the hull is the subject to painting, drying, sanding, painting....

In the drying time I did something for later - working on detailing the decks. There are several different hatches on deck, all shown in their rough dimension on the drawings I have. The hatch designated with "Pos. 1" was built in 13 times on the original ship. Perfect for molding & casting again. Here is part of the drawing:



I took a suitable piece of resin and used my Proxxon drill as a manual milling machine. By doing this I get an almost ready-to-mold plug of the hatch. Result looks like this.




The holes in the background (diam. 0.4 mm) serve the purpose of glueing the hinges to the plug without spoiling the surface. So they have to go through the complete piece of resin and I can then apply the CA glue from the backside.

For the hinges I used some of my PE parts and manipulated them as shown here:


After bending and cutting them off (which is quite delicate and the reason for having 7 of them prepared) I attached two pieces to the plug.


For better casting results I apply glossy paint to the plug - here you see a close-up after the first coat of paint. At least two additional coats will follow. Surfaces and corners will be sanded a little more. BTW, the hatchcover is 7 x 5 mm.


Thanks for watching guys

You've got whole shipyard at your home!!!

It's interesting to watch building process from keel to the last rivet... nice progress...

Keep on Peter, looks good!
But I doubt YOUR AFP will survive the hit of a battleship on the pond...

Updates on B-110 must follow, but actually I don't get it on. Hope to finish the bridge and install it until Rendsburg 9th June...

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Uli "Torpedo" Setzermann

http://www.marine-forum.de - Das Kaiserliche Marineforum

Currently Building: SM TrpBt B-110, SM TrpBt S-37
Upcoming: SMS Derfflinger

That's first class model building!

Dino

First class modelling is what you do Dino to your HMS BARHAM. My goodness - its 1/350 !!!

I would be happy doing this in 1/100 (which I try here).

Time to mold the hatch.

This is how the plug looks after three coats of paint and sanding in between.


This is what I'm going to use


Filling the silicon into a small steel bucket using a spoon


I have to add 5% hardener. 7.11g x 0.05 = 0.3555 g. Sucking the stuff in...


the amount of hardener added to the silicon


mixing silicon and hardener and applying it into the mold. Sorry for the blurry picture - I was too close, no correct focus...


And this is what I will see for the next 12 hours...


Thanks for watching and if you like it - stay tuned...