The Ship Model Forum

Extremely nice detailing work - and the planked wood deck is amazing! (I can't even get the deck planking lined up straight on a 1/48 model )

_________________
Model Ship Kit Reviews

Wanted! Detail photo this device ...

_________________
Max

my last works:

_________________
Max

_________________
Max

Отличная работа, Максим.

У меня несколько вопросов, если ни возражаешь:

Я умею паить радио-компоненты достаточно хорошо, но я пробовал паить детали из меди, как у тебя, и нормальное олово конечно не прилипает. Можешь что-нибудь посоветовать?
И еще, очень впечатляющее у тебя палуба. Сколько времени это взяло?

Спасибо. Буду наблюдать твою работу. Может быть и формы свои делать научусь у тебя... а то инжинер по професии и как-то стыдно что не умею.

_________________
thelastperiscope.com

1. для пайки я использую "кислоту паяльную" -ZnCl, продается у нас в магазинах радиотовоаров. перед пайкой надо залудить обе детали и оставить на них минимум олова. потом просто соеденить и нагреть.
2. на палубу ушло 2 недели (но это не первая палуба )

1. for soldering I use "acid soldering" -ZnCl, is sold beside us in radio shops. before soldering to is necessary cover to salve "acid" both detail and cover their tin/(Sn-Stannum). to is necessary leave minimum of tin on them.. afterwards simply combine/pack and warm.
2. on deck has left 2 weeks (but this not first deck

_________________
Max

I'm not sure, but maybe you mean the flux, which can be a liquid and is acid for silver soldering?

Tinning is the process of putting a fine coating of solder onto an object, this can be achieved by heating, applying solder and wiping off the excess. I do this to my soldering iron tips every time I use them.

If this is the case, then, tin the post, place the ladders on, dab on flux(acid), heat and the flux will draw a tiny amount of solder from the post onto each ladder rung.

Does this sound like what you are doing?

_________________
Darren (Admiral Hawk)
In the not so tropical climate of the Great White North.

yes all faithfully! beside me with english not much... so I can not so tell as you.

_________________
Max

I'm trying to understand it all, as this technique allows for much more durable parts than styrene, especially the mast. So

1) You add a very thin layer of solder to the base part. Note sure if wiping off is that easy?
2) The ladder rung is placed and a bit of flux is added around the ladder rung
3) Heat and done. I wonder, heat locally? Or won't the other parts loosen and fall off?

If this is the process, do you need special tin? I have tins used for soldering PCBs (circuit boards) but that doesn't flow very well and I'm sure wiping if off is difficult. That tin is also very weak, resulting in pretty poor bonds.

I've tried brazing, but that doesn't work at all for small parts. Also, the torch keeps blowing most parts away or evaporates the metal.

But: nice progress!

Foeth

Hi Foeth,

Wiping off is easy with a desoldering wick, but I'm not sure if he is doing that.

The flux would probably hold the rung because he has added feet. Even though I understand the process and am a pretty good solderer, the size and light weight of these rungs would make the process very challenging.

It looks like he is using the metal ruler to hold them all in place and heating the rod with a small butane torch (as he says, from far away, so it won't blow them away), sealing them all in place at the same time with very little heat. No chance for error!

It would be an extremely weak joint, but then you shouldn't need much strength for these small parts. The paint will probably be a stronger hold over them!

Impressive work.

_________________
Darren (Admiral Hawk)
In the not so tropical climate of the Great White North.

1) You add a very thin layer of solder to the base part. Note sure if wiping off is that easy? - add soldering pen, wipe fabrics/rag unless shines - signifies overdid

2) The ladder rung is placed and a bit of flux is added around the ladder rung - around = between

3) Heat and done. I wonder, heat locally? Or won't the other parts loosen and fall off? - not terribly, only did not fall!

If this is the process, do you need special tin? - no, usual for soldering the electronic details.
I've tried brazing, but that doesn't work at all for small parts. Also, the torch keeps blowing most parts away or evaporates the metal - try begin from afar, trays neatly, briliance of tin will show the result.

_________________
Max

last time I concern with pipes, nothing interesting, except "spiders":



solder the gas burner on tin and acid.

_________________
Max

I cut spider of paw and has putted/deliver on place



kit for chains on pipes

_________________
Max

Nice work

thank you! I there is to that strive!

_________________
Max

puzzle for HACS Mk IV director

_________________
Max

Good to see you back!!!!

Interesting machining of Perpex(?) parts-- an you tell us more?

Best Wishes

Jim Baumann

_________________
....I buy them at three times the speed I build 'em.... will I live long enough to empty my stash...?
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

IPMS UK SIG (special interest group) www.finewaterline.com

Hi Maximus,

your work on POW is really nice and intersting to follow Very very nice!

_________________
Cheers,
Christian
_________________
AKA "Painter"
VMF'06 - German Gamblers
Veritable Modelling Friends 2006, Germany

- forgive me, I did not understand a speech about what details?

_________________
Max

ready picture

_________________
Max