Waterlining

[madmike]

New to ship models.Can someone explain Waterlining,I believe it entails cutting the entire ship hull.Thx

[Timmy C]

Waterlining means to cut the hull off so as to portray only the portion of the ship that one would see above the surface of the water. In practice, this means that the model will not have a "lower hull", which is usually the red part.

[Rob-UK]

For a large 1:350 ship model with full hull, is there a recomended way of doing this?

I think marking the line clearly first would be important, and I expect the best way is to position the hull level and firmly on a table or similar and mount a marker pen on a block of a set height to suit the waterline position then just run it around the hull at the fixed height to mark a very even line right round the waterline. But what is the best way to actually cut through along the whole length of the marked waterline? Any suggestions and experience would be welcome.

[Timmy C]

Resin or regular plastic?

[Rob-UK]

Regular plastic (Tamiya in this case).

I also wondered if the cut was careful and stright, if the lower half can be retained and completed, so the option remains to lift the model off the sea base so it can be placed on the lower half to keep a full hull display option. Has anyone done this before?

Thanks
Rob

[RNfanDan]

Many seem to think you must butcher the hull to achieve a waterlined model.

>>>>>NOT TRUE!<<<<<

You can simply build a recessed base board and place the model in it, building your seascape on top. This can be done with a thin wood or fibreboard base (masonite, etc.), upon which is glued a styrofoam or other thickening medium to cover the lower hull.

I have seen this technique done several times, and favor it over hacking the hull off. It also saves the problems of bracing, reinforcing, etc., of the upper hull to avoid distortions, and preserves the model for later display choices if desired. Why destroy one's options?

Some of the more interesting displays I have seen recently, in a style which seems to be gaining popularity, is securing a full-hull model into a slightly too-shallow recessed base, then heeling the model over in a turn so that the partly-exposed lower hull shows on the lee side. This was an idea that I want to try on a planned frigate model (perhaps depth-charging a sub?). The impressive wake and foam pattern of the water base of a high-speed turn however, is a challenge that I might not be up to. But it did look fantastic!

Some ideas to consider, in lieu of a hatchet-job...

[NukeMM]

Regular plastic (Tamiya in this case).

I also wondered if the cut was careful and stright, if the lower half can be retained and completed, so the option remains to lift the model off the sea base so it can be placed on the lower half to keep a full hull display option. Has anyone done this before?

Thanks
Rob

Rob,

I would think that some of the plastic material would be lost equal to the width of the blade of the device that you use. So, when trying to match up the upper and lower hulls, the height of the entire hull wouldn't be the same as before cutting it.

[NukeMM]

I got lucky with the resin hull of the ISW USS Mackinac AVP-13 kit. The top of the hull piece is mostly flat and with pour hole indentations in the same place on each kit's hull.

I made a wooden jig angled to the right angle and height of the waterline. I just screw the hull piece to the jig at the pour hole indentations and slide the jig through the band saw. I've done this twice to two models.

Just make sure the screws aren't too, long and get in the way of the blade on the saw.

[JIM BAUMANN]

With plastic ships... the method that works well and reliably is to apply tape to chosen point of cut, and score with knife until you have a deep( guide) groove--and then penetrate--and use a razor saw.

Alternatively--if the vessel will be set in a seabase with some waves--you can simply hack off with adremel circular saw blade--my preferred method!! quick!

In my view attempting to marry a cut upper plastic hull and ( discarded) lower hull is unlikely to be successful....

If you wish to retain the possibilty of a lower hull display....

take inspiration from Wolfgang Kring

article in German at Modellmarine
http://www.modellmarine.de/index.php?op ... g&Itemid=1




For resin hulls--and lacking a bandsaw...( good work nukemm!!)

I use this faithful and successful-- if messy! method:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=18213

Good luck

JIM B

[Felix C]

Any other recommendations for waterlining a plastic hull, as in a 1/400 Heller which has bracing, other than a razor saw? Does not look like I can get a smooth cut across the waterline to later display on glass.

Well, I have no tried it as you know, once you cut it is done

[Ted Bunn]

Hi Felix,

I recently did a couple of articles in Fine Scale Modeler over the last year that addresses watrlining Heller hulls. In this case, the Graf Spee and Dunkerque. In short, the cut for the waterline on Heller hulls is made below the braces, so you don't need to worry about them. I cut mine before I glued the hull halves together. Don't worry if they are a little uneven after you join the hull halves, you are going to sand them even anyway. I also make a "waterline plate" made from .030 Evergreen sheet shaped to the hull bottom for strength and stability. If you want to see pics, just let me know.

Ted

[Felix C]

thanks. Will try. Need a few whiskies to steady my hands before amputating.

[Ted Bunn]

Put some Dymo label tape just below the waterline to use for a guide. Get a scriber and make a few passes along the tape until a groove is formed. Finish the cut off with a hand saw.

Heller hulls are easy to waterline. You'll be fine.

Good luck !

[DYMOSupport]

Put some Dymo label tape just below the waterline to use for a guide. Get a scriber and make a few passes along the tape until a groove is formed. Finish the cut off with a hand saw.

Heller hulls are easy to waterline. You'll be fine.

Good luck !

Hiya Ted,

Just wanted to pop in to thank you for sharing this great tip!
As someone who has always enjoyed tinkering with ship modeling during my spare time and not been able to figure out something to make this process easier, I have to say that this tip is great. It is so easy and a very unique way to make use of Dymo tape.

Big thank you once again for sharing and I hope many will find it useful.

With best regards,
Jesper K
DYMOSupport