The Ship Model Forum

Haruna.

Trying to convert 1945 fit to 1942 Midway.

If impossible, then configuration prior to all of the triple 25mm sprouting on the ship.

You might want to check my Kongo's WIP thread Jojo, hope it helps.

viewtopic.php?f=59&t=39850&start=0


Jose

Patial answer to Haruna:

4 twin 12.7cm mounts. The two mounts on each side of funnel #1 are added later 43-44, probably during hte '44 refit. Ditto on changes to her bridge superstructure. More compartments, AA positions.

Random question... anybody building one of the newer Fujimi 700 Kongos that aren't going to be using the H-1/2/3/4 pieces, AKA the four raised deck platforms for additional 5"/50 DP guns? I'm looking to get my hands on those pieces for another project I have under way, so getting my hands on a set of them would be nice.

Much appreciated!

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After a long absence from the hobby, I am now returning to my stash of kits acquired from 1989-1999. I'm starting with mu old Fujimi/Seaways 1/700 Kongo, which I started years ago and then put back in the box. I've looked around and found a number of detailing accessories out there. Some I'm getting and some not:

Flyhawk Photo etch for Kongo - Simply amazing. I'm defintely getting this.
Flagship Models Photo Etch - Doesn't look like it has anything not already in the Flyhawk
Gold Metal Models Photo Etch - I actually have this, having purchased it years aog. I probably won't be using it though, as the Flyhawk fitting look finer
Hasegawa 13mm Machine Guns - I don't think I need this, since Idon't find any reference that these guns were installed on the Kongo (1944)
Fujimi Photo Etch Details (111780) - Nothing here on top of Flyhawk
Lion Roar 031 25mm AA Set 1 - Looks like something I should have
Lion Roar 037 12.7 cm barrels - Probably not, since the Veteran parts below loo kbetter
Lion Roar 041 14" Gun Barrels - Look like a keeper
Lion Roar 042 25mm AA Set 2 - Probably should get
Clipper CLP 1101 14" Gun Barrels - no, in favor of the Lion Roar Parts
Niko 7004J Triple 25mm AA Guns - Nope, Lion Roar
Niko 7003J Twin AA guns - N, Lion Roar
White Ensign Models PEM 728 IJN Light Weapons - No, Lion Roar
Veteran Models 700001 12.7 cm AA Guns - These look really good, probably should get
Sea Master 700-10 6" Gun Barrels - I haven't really decided on these, but it might be a shame to do everything else and have plastic barrels on these guns

So here is my question to you all out there. Is there anything else I should consider? I realize that the old Fujimi isn't the best base (I hear the new Fujimi is improved to some degree).

I am finding hints of wood decking from Fujimi or Shinsengumi (not sure about spelling there). At 1/700, I don't know whether this is real wood vs. some kind of plastic overlay. I find the Fujimi part (112000) at hlj.com (available), wohld.com (available), and hwjapan.com (out of stock). Taiwan Model Ship Club apparently used to list it but they are closed. I just haven't been able to find out anything else about it.

I'm also wondering about the mushroom vents all over the deck.

Thanks

The Flyhawk set is made to fit the new Fujimi Kongo, which is significantly improved (and thus different) over the older releases. Thus, you might run into some fit problems.

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Yep, I'm plowing through the 1/700 Fujimi and I got the Flyhawk PE for it. (So much better than running all over the world looking for individual bits and pieces of PE like others have posted about).

It is soooo nice to have PE that fits the model exactly. I HATE trying to measure and fit PE that is too large or small for the piece. Fujimi's Kongo isn't that expensive (in comarison to a resin kit) Plus the newer kit has moulding details so fine you may not want to replace some of it with PE. (really) For what it's worth, get the Fujimi kit and the PE for it from Flyhawk and be done with it. Some of the details are so small you can't even see them without magnification.

Thanks for the heads-up on the differences. It's not a big surprise. I think I should avoid the wood deck upgrade if I stick with the old Fujimi. It seems like it would be the most likely thing to go wrong from the corrections, and that would be really ugly. Now that I started this from reopening a kit I aready had, I might just end up replacing the kit!

Honestly, that's probably the best move. Unless you just want to practice.

You all are spot on about the differences between the old and new Fujimis. My Flyhawk PE set arrived today and there is just no way that it's going to fit on the old mold.
This stuff is just amazing BTW. My last foray into modeling was ~20 years ago, when the first sets of GMM PE were just the bee's knees. This new PE is just breathtaking. I may just use my old GMM PE set on the old Kongo to get my fingers back into practice and start hunting for a new Kongo. A side-by-side should be interesting (in about 5 years!).
Cheers,
Dave

According to the Classic Warships book on the Kongos, Kirishima's last two yard periods (both in 1942) were at Kure. Seems to me she'd've been in Kure gray at the time of her sinking, unless they did all their painting during the refits with onboard stocks of Sasebo grey, or the book is mistaken about the yard she visited. Does anyone know the solution to this conundrum?
- Sean F.

I still strongly believe Kirishima was painted in Sasebo grey at the time of her sinking. According to Nihon Kaigun website, Kirishima's last yard period was at Sasebo
"22 April 1942:
Arrives at Sasebo. Maintains standby alert.
11 May 1942:
At Sasebo. Drydocked. 25-mm AA guns Nos. 7 and 8 are relocated from the upper deck to the vicinity of the forward funnel to provide better arcs of fire.
20 May 1942:
Undocked.
21 May 1942:
Departs Sasebo"
She was indeed at Kure between 09july42 and 16august42
"9 July 1942:
Moves to Kure. Maintains standby alert.
14 July 1942:
KIRISHIMA and HIEI (F) are reassigned from the First Fleet to Vice Admiral Nagumo's Third Fleet in Rear Admiral Abe Hiroaki's new BatDiv 11. KIRISHIMA and HIEI's aircraft complement is upgraded: they receive one Aichi E13A1 "Jake" reconnaissance floatplane and two Mitsublishi Type F1M2 "Pete" floatplanes.
16 August 1942:
BatDiv 11's KIRISHIMA and HIEI depart Kure via Yokosuka towards Truk with a task group: CarDiv 1's SHOKAKU, ZUIKAKU, CarDiv 2's light carrier RYUJO, CruDiv 8's CHIKUMA and TONE, DesRon 10's light cruiser NAGARA and 11 destroyers."
There is no indication that she was drydocked during this period. Of course, it is possible she got some paint touch-up but an entire repaint job is IMHO, very unlikely. As her TROM has been revised in 09-2009, I think the CW information is less accurate.

Cheers
Gilbert

My best info says Kiri's last full paint job was at Sasebo.. I always liked the Kure Arsenal Grey better.. But ya gotta go with the correct color, no doubt!!!

As far as touch ups go, remember that the deck crew was responsible for maintenance and upkeep of their designated area's.. That included painting surfaces, and stoning the decks.. The paint would be drawn from ships stores in buckets... And I Guarantee, that no two, of those buckets of heavy lead paint, ever had the same tint, or consistancy of color... That is just the universal, "Murphy's Law" of military life!!!!

As far as the twin 5in40's, 2 were installed prewar, and 2 more were installed before she was sunk.. 6in casemate guns were landed on a 1 for 1 basis... An interesting point about the 5in twin, it was found to be overall superior to the 6in guns during prewar gunnery practice... At equal ranges, the 5in40 could put more steel on target due to higher rate of fire, with a higher % of hits for number of rounds fired...

Tom

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Helly everybody :)
I wanted to ask what exactly period Fujimi's 1/350 and 1/700 Haruna represent(cant be late 1944 or 1945 - luck of single 25mm AA e.t.c.) And what period his pagoda height was lowered as it looks in the Fujimi's kit( both in 1/350 and 1/700), Im asking that cause early in the war her pagoda was higher.

Thanks in advance.

According to the 1:350 kit's box, it's June 1944.

- Sean F.

Correct. Leyte would have had her with only three screws IIRC. The latest Model Art Special has plans of the Leyte Gulf light AA outfit and other detail changes for Haruna..

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Gernot Hassenpflug
Find out how it works, then functionality and limits

A question regarding conning tower decks: In the Aoshima 1:350 Kirishima I'm currently building, many levels of the superstructure have planking grooves molded in (identical to that of the main deck). In the Fujimi 1:350 Haruna kit I built previously, most of the upper levels have linoleum deck ribbing molded in (identical to that in the aircraft handling area). In older kits, and in many builds I've seen, these decks are smooth and painted gray like the rest of the ship. I haven't seen any discussion of this point of detail; can anyone shed some light on which is correct? While I hope I don't have to fill these things in or plate them over with sheet plastic, it does seem a little strange to have wood planking that high up.

- Sean F.

Does anyone have a photo of reconstructed Kirishima in dry dock? I would like to know if the front and back of the underwater portion of the torpedo blister faired completely smoothly and seamlessly into the hull as depicted in Aoshima's kit, or could one easily descern the front and back edge of the torpedo blister against the original contour of the hull.

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A late reply to Sean's question - seems unlikely, the practice was to use linoleum on most upper bridge levels. But, no photos to indicate either way.

Chuck - no pic of Kirishima in drydock but, there is one on Hiei in drydock Nov. 1941. Photo quality nnot great but, very hard to see any edge other than the topside of the blister. OTOH, there is a pic of Kongo is drydock post war being salvaged and, while this photo quality is also terrible, there is a hint of an edge. Best guess - the plating does show, but just barely because the plate is only so thick.

Are you building the 1/350 Aoshima kit?

I am debating between building the Aoshima kit or trying to modify one of the Fujimi kits to represent Kirishima. I prefer IJN warships in early war configuration. I looked inside the Aoshima kit. It's not bad, but not quite up to the standards of latest Hasagawa, Tamiya or dragon kit. The raised plating lines on the hull gives me some pause. There is absolutely no hint of where the blister starts. This can't be possible unless the Japanese replated the hull around the joint. I suppose it is not impossible that the Japanese replated the hull when adding the blisters, but I would doubt it.

Also, are the hull plates of the Kongo class flush with just the joints lapped, or were there clearly alternatibg bands of raised and recessed plates?

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Assessing the impact of new area rug under modeling table.