Reconstruction of hull, Battleship BISMARCK, 1/100 scale

[Ludwig]

hello Phil,

Maybe the tool by MDC is something for you. Google MDC rivetting tool and you will see what I mean.
A rivetting tool for detailling 1/32 scale aircraft , I have something similar than that , once bought at Cammett , seems it is no longer available , it had about a dozen of these pins with different diameters.

regards,

Ludwig

[109]

Bernd,

I have looked at the Scale Hardware rivets. At 1:96 the rivets I need would be about 0.010" (0.25 mm), and there are lots of them! I really don't want to try to hand drill thousands of .010" holes - those tiny drill bits snap very easy (I speak from experience). There isn't any obvious way to position the hull under the milling machine.

One place I really want rivets is at the edge of the main deck - very visible. The hull plating extended above the deck and there was an "L" strip with four rows of rivets to join the deck to the hull plating. The rivets were almost flush on the outside of the hull, but the rivets on this strip in the waterways are very visible in photos. At 1:96 this strip would be 0.05" thick (0.127 mm) and 0.100" (2.5 mm) wide. I have considered photoetching to remove some metal and leave the rivets. Another possibility is creating a multi-row ponce wheel for flat sheet, followed by a bending jig to form the angle.

On the outside of the hull the seams between hull plates above the waterline amidships were covered by exterior backing plates, with five or six rows of rivets. There will be only 2-3 mm wide, and would be excellent candidates for the decal rivets. Since the plates have a sharp edge the decal edges would not be visible. Unfortunately, the decal rivets are too large scale. Again, I may use photoetch or a ponce wheel. These rivets were almost flush and don't show in most photos, so maybe I will leave them off.

I am following your build to see how you do some of these things. Good work so far!

Phil

Hi,

I have basically the same problems with the rivets as you... If you are a detail freak you could also look out for someone who makes parts for the watch maker industry. They have sometimes lathes which turn parts from long rods - just the same machines used to do those miniature scale rivets. It should be no problem for them to leave off the shaft of the rivet. No drilling needed but you need to glue every single rivet head onto the model ... You may want to search thru model railway forums for such an occasion as there are some detail freaks around, too ...

I also have this tool: http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op= ... nt&id=1199

Bye now,

Bernd.

[109]

hello Phil,

Maybe the tool by MDC is something for you. Google MDC rivetting tool and you will see what I mean.
A rivetting tool for detailling 1/32 scale aircraft , I have something similar than that , once bought at Cammett , seems it is no longer available , it had about a dozen of these pins with different diameters.

regards,

Ludwig

Hi,

thanks for that hint! How is your model coming along?? We need an update, please!

Bye.

[109]

Hi,

some time ago I actually started work on Bismarck�s main battery. I will first build a study model of styrene before I commence work on the final model. However, gun barrels are the final results of my research (turned at a friend�s friend lathe). I need to get my on lathe in 2011 - any recommended machines, please?!

Bye!

[109]

And a final pic:

[Capit�o Norbert]

Hi Bernd
fantastic work for main turrets
i like this care with modelling

[109]

Hi,

added circular and oval openings in the hull bottom using a pumpgun .... just kidding!

[JIM BAUMANN]

INCREDIBLY sharp and fine work...

Hoch-achtung!!!



i AM WATCHING THI WITH INTEREST!

Jim Baumann

[Capit�o Norbert]

i agree Jim
really fantastic work on hull

[Dave Wooley]

Hi Bernd Your gun barrel arrangement is excellent .It will be interesting to see how Kiwi Medic installs his as they elevate independently in each turret.
Dave Wooley

[109]

Thank you all for your kind comments!

Dave: my barrels will move just by hand as I do a static model. Just a simple bolt running thru the splinter bulkhead and the gun shield... I also look forward to see kiwimedics progress on his Bismarck!:D

Bye now,

Bernd.

[CNH]

Hi Bernd

Do you know where I can buy a copy of the plan you are using to locate the sea chests, Kingston valves etc?

Thanks
Chris

[109]

Hi Bernd

Do you know where I can buy a copy of the plan you are using to locate the sea chests, Kingston valves etc?

Thanks
Chris

Hi Chris,

I havn�t forgotten you - I am just too busy at the moment (no modeling also). I�ll contact you soon!

Bye now,

Bernd.

[CNH]

Thanks Bernd, look forward to hearing from you.


Chris

[ubekistano]

excelentemente perfecto!!!!!
can you post more pics of hull its amazing

[Richard J OMalley]

Fabulous ! This build has inspired me to get back to work .I do not have AC in my shop and this has been a very hot summer but this week will be twenty degrees cooler.
Your work is fantastic .

[109]

Hi,

thanks for the kind comments above!

I am working on my first PE parts for the grills of the sea chests. I have on foto of a grill and when compared to these pictures:

http://www.randive.com/sea%20chest%20cleaning.htm

I come to my reconstruction (see attached file).

What do you think??

Bye!

PS: does anyone knows a reliable etching service which delivers high quality work?

[ingura]

...

[109]

Thanks for that hint, Peter!

Smallest dimension = thickness of brass sheet - as far as i know that�s the basic rule?

Bye now.

[ingura]

...