The Ship Model Forum

Finished the plating







Then I will glue up the rest of the pannels.

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If you are not living on the edge then you are taking up to much space

the plates looks so very well done.
with the painting the appearence will be very very good. i like it

Thanks I primed it with Poly Auto primer .After she is dry I will sand the welds down .The white glue will show up well with the gray backround .





That is Bismarck's little brother Admiral Hipper also in the photo.

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If you are not living on the edge then you are taking up to much space

The primer has dried so the next step is to sand it down and reduce the welds .

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If you are not living on the edge then you are taking up to much space

I have rough sanded the hull ..







Now its time to install the armor that was riveted to the sides .

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If you are not living on the edge then you are taking up to much space

Watching with interest. Love the detail you're putting into this, Richard.

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"China is a sleeping giant. Let her sleep, for when she wakes she will shake the world." ~ Napoleon Bonaparte

Thank you Herrmill,now if I can do those rivits

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If you are not living on the edge then you are taking up to much space

Hi All
There are three armor plates riveted to each side .The top view shows the armored deck .The deck armor will lift off to get at the RC stuff .I have never built a RC boat so Don at Loyalhanna will help me out in that department .



The plates were cut out of the plans .The middle one and rear one are the same size and have the same rivit pattern .

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If you are not living on the edge then you are taking up to much space

Are you going to do those rivets yourself or go the easier route using Archer Transfers?

Speaking of Don, be sure to ask him what became of the large scale BK1124/1125 kit he was planning to do. He certainly has enough info to start on it.

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"China is a sleeping giant. Let her sleep, for when she wakes she will shake the world." ~ Napoleon Bonaparte

Years ago I made the USS Monitor turret from a steel pipe .I turned it on my lath then put it on the milling machine fixed in a indexing attachment .I then drilled all the rivet holes then drove in piano wire .I then put it back in the lathe and cut down all the wire to just a few thousands above the turret .
That is what I was going to do on the armor plate but it can all be done on the mill .Then I saw Bob's CSS Jackson build were he used styrne rod for rivets so I will try it .
I want to match the rivet pattern exactly as it is so I will use the photo copy as a guide .
I didn't know he had a 1124/1125 kit in the works .They would require two different hulls as they are not alike .

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If you are not living on the edge then you are taking up to much space

Richard, hi!

May I ask how did you measure the plates length using the plans? To explain myself a little bit - ship hull has certain curvature so that when one measures e.g. plate length using side-view on the plan he does not get into account 'correct length' of a plate which shall be greater for the plate to take (curved) shape of the hull and coincide with its place (marks) on side-view.

In your case the difference may be very insignificant (if any) due to "bronekater" (armour-boat) comparatively straight hull lines at the middle but would increase proportionately to increase of hull curvature (torpedo boats, destroyed, etc or at stem and stern).

Personally I solve this issue using paper models of ships I try to scratchbuild - paper models are designed in 3d so that they take into account curvature and provide correct dimensions of plates for example (if they show plates at their models). But someday I have to get to 'raw drawings' and not wishing to do any 3d modeling I wonder how to do it "by hand" so to say.

Cheers,

Yevgeniy

Hi Yevgenity
Yes you are right any curviture of the hull will distort the plates .It takes a shell expantion plan to see the shape of plates laid out flat .However the 1124 sides were the add on armor goes is flat and straight so I can get away with it on them only .
Good idea using 3-D card models .I will have to remember that one .

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If you are not living on the edge then you are taking up to much space

I want to thank you for this tip too

Cheers,

Yevgeniy

Hi All
This will be as much fun as watching paint dry but somebody has to do it . I cut out four pieces of styrene and stuck them together with rubber cement .I then cemented them to a piece of wood so I could use it to fasten down .



This is when disaster struck .This little mill has been sitting around for years and the dogs had knocked it over bending the bracket that holds the motor .Any way the belt kept fying off .Good thing I have it's big brother .

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If you are not living on the edge then you are taking up to much space

IS a goog technic to puncture in te same place in one time...
i glue my plates with double face.....
very good Richard

Thanks Capitao
I am going to do it different now .I don't think the plates are thick enough to hold the rivets so I will have to drill the hull also .What I will do is glue the plates to the hull with a photy copy on each one .Then clamp the hull to the big mill and drill each one going into the hull at the same time .

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If you are not living on the edge then you are taking up to much space

Hi Richard, All these new idea,s, you will be teaching me soon, looking good.

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Simple but effective.

Hi, all

As to riveting which would be also my fate with bigger RC boat projet I have in mind - did anyone try a method of making rivets by hot soldering iron which I have read from aviation modeling. To keep it short this presumes drilling a small hole in iron tip for a syringe needle with cut-off tip/small tube (with diameter corresponding to that of a rivet), inserting the needle into the iron tip (it shall sit firm in such a hole), priming the hull with automotive primer or liquid putty, letting it dry and making rivets with 'hot syringe needle' over the primer/putty. Read about it but did not try yet - sounds easier then drilling holes and making individual rivets...But as I said I did not try so can recommend using over a spare piece of plastic which I will do.

Cheers,

Yevgeniy

Thanks Yevgeniy
That is a good idea .I willl have to try it .At first I thought it would just leave a hole but then realized the hole in the needle should make a rivet head .
What RC boat project are you thinking about ?

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If you are not living on the edge then you are taking up to much space

Hi, Richard,

Yes the hole at the needle is supposed to leave a rivet. However the needle shall be large enough for big rivets (may be some tube of larger diameter) and one has to control that the 'inside' of the needle is clean and not clogged after each rivet. If you try it could you please describe your experience as I said I have not tried it yet.

My dream boat is G-5 First I thought about it in 1/35 (scratch or wait for some modeling company to do it - there were rumour it is under construction) but watching youtube RC videos I understood that even 1/20 is too small for my liking So I think about it in 1:16. Have to make some more simple things before it to build up skills - in order not to loose guts at the middle of big and complex project.

Cheers,

Yevgeniy