The Ship Model Forum

Bridge levels


funnel area


rear superstructure


C & D turrets


Stern.

_________________
Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything.
Wyatt Earp

Eduard breakwater. Fiddly but excellent!


Note the Veteran Models signal lamp




What have i learned from this build?
1) The Revell Bismarck, although light years ahead from the Tamiya offering, still has quite a few inaccuracies which are obvious when you do some research. The most glaring is the absence of planking detail in the bow, between the anchor chains (provided as a PE part by Eduard). The walls of the various superstructure levels are also overly simplified.

2) References: The Anatomy book is indispensible, and the Kaiser book is a rather comprehensive photographic reference. I did not like the Classic Warships book, but I guess everything depends on the amount you are prepared to pay for a reference book.

I almost forgot to mention the "Calling All Bismarck Fans" topic on this website. It is a must, and I always look forward to the comments of Olaf Held and Antonio Bonomi in particular, as they always add to my knowledge. Those gentlemen will note that I have indeed attempted to represent the Army 20mm AA and their ammunition boxes!

3) Wooden decks are fine if you build out of the box. If you begin adding accessories and especially if you are making corrections, you might find yourself with unpleasnt surprises, such as un-needed holes that have to be somehow covered. You might also encounter fit problems -at least I did. The KA deck was also noticeably thick, but I have yet to try other brands. I do intend to try a ScaleDecks product in the future, as they are the only company providing un-cut decks for more advanced modelers.

4) The method of building the superstructure in subassemblies has drawbacks. If painting and detailing decks separately, one has to be very careful not to miss any vertical surfaces that are higher than one deck and should appear continuous, or you will be making painful corrections!

5) Veteran Models parts are excellent, but need research when placing them

6) The Orange Models rafts were not a particularly noticeable improvement over the kit parts. PE bottoms. is it worth it?

7) I left the PE sets for last. I will start with the WEM set. Being intended for the Tamiya kit, the majority of the parts are either redundant or unusable on the Revell kit. It does have quite a few lovely fine details, including scuttles, but due to its price its a luxury for the Revell kit. You would be much better off buying the specific Kriegsmarine parts WEM produces, such as doors and scuttles, as they are sold at a much lower price.

I have very mixed feelings about the Eduard set. First of all, I have to confess that I used two sets to complete my build, as I managed to screw up some key parts because of the confusing instructions. It is indeed a very comprehensive set, but has some annoying quirks:the best example is Eduard's insistence of deeper etching of railings at corners. This is supposed to make life easier, but doesn't, as once again if you place them a fraction of a millimeter wrong they don't fit, spoiling the intention, while they are far too delicate and break off if you don't manage to fit them right the first time.. Moreover, I would personally assume that there would have to be a stanchion at the corner... I have never seen the Lionroar set, so I cannot comment. I heard that it has funnel handrails, which should be interesting, even if overcale.

There, I vented! I hope you have enjoyed my journey so far. I intend to take a short break before I start the final lap, but I promise to update this thread whenever I progress.

_________________
Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything.
Wyatt Earp

Great build Anthony!
I am about half-way through my build of this kit and am using almost identical detail sets (less WEM set (but borrowing from other WEM KM sets I have). I am planning to go with the Pontos deck as it is expected to be released next week. Sure wish that ScaleDecks would be ready soon for comparison!
Have already addressed a few of the problems you have encountered (the horizontal line at the fwd 15cm mount casement) and REALLY appreciate your sharing other difficulties, such as the Arado struts. I may try a 1.400 set to see if the height is improved.
I absolutely agree that the weapon barrel replacement and in particular, the Veteran Models sets off HUGE improvements over kit parts. The Veteran Models FlaKvierling C25s represent the correct early KM type used on the Bismarck (not the army type provided by Revell), but are EXTREMELY fiddly, even including minute individual magazines to go into the weapon and storage boxes!
Currently building brass masts for the ship and assembling the secondary armament turrets.
Looking forward to the final installments of your build!

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M. A. DeBacker
Wine Country architect and museum artillery repairs
Special Navy U-Boot Type XXIII 1:72
Revell DKM Bismarck 1:350
Tauro RN Fiume, Pola, Zara, Gorizia 1:400
Heller DKM Admiral Scheer 1:400
Revell DKM Schnellboot S-100 1:72

HI Antony

very good job !
regards
Nicolas

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https://ladiagonaledubosco.blogspot.fr/

Wow....great looking build.

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Martin

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday." John Wayne

Ship Model Gallery

Very good build,

I agree, KA wooden Deck is quite thick. Even its in my stash already I will order the Pontos Deck.
Regarding the Eduard instructions.....they are by far the best....I will use the lionroar set but...only by using the instruction without extensive research you will never be able to build all the parts. The parts themselves no problem, but where to put exactly?????
Its a pity that well researched aftermarket sets suffer from poor instructions. Even the excellent pontos sets have their problems. The one included in the kit are way too small, the one on theit website are no high resolution pictures. I wish they would bring the excellent pictures SHpark made during buildup.
The worst instructions in my opinion are Flyhawk, they prevented me to build MAYA till now.

No more excuses, just build it...

Happy modelling ~ Olaf!

Hi Olaf,

.....unfortunately a lot of excuses. I started building a 1:350 Nagara with a lot of aftermarket things. Additional I´m working on a 1:150 VOC Batavia.You should visit the real thing in Lelystad its absolute outstanding. The main problem, i don´t build at all at the moment, my Dad died in the beginning of November I will move to his house , but it`s a lot to do there , so I build 1:1 scale at the moment. additional to my work and the regular visits at my small daughter. she is 4 and lives in Den Hoorn, Holland after my wife left me. Absolute the nearest way from southern bavaria.I hope I will be able to return to the workbench in summer, I miss it already very much.As soon I finished my current projects , I tend to start Bismarck, I have the kit in my shelf now for 4 years and I think it has to be build. I´m only exited about the coming Pontos kit. If there will be a lot of new things I will use it additional to the Lion Roar set.But these are plans for the future, at the moment I have much bigger problems.

Best regards
Marc

Thank you all for your kind comments. very much appreciated!

Well, I do have some progress to share:


On the main bridge level, after looking at my references one more time, I came to the conclusion that the Eduard PE platforms I had placed in front of the signal lamp were more appropriate for the Tirpitz than the Bismarck, so i removed them. On the left side you will also note a structure made of 20 thousand brass rod which will eventually receive rigging.


I made some rope coils from 0.4 lead wire and placed them strategically on various deck areas in order to cover deck imperfections

_________________
Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything.
Wyatt Earp

To complement all the fine detail provided by Veteran, I scratchbuilt the helm and rudder indicator with plascticard and fine wire. They are right in the middle.


You always miss something when you attempt to use 2 PE sets. In this case I discovered, rather late, that the WEM set provided PE bridge houses, which looked finer than the kit ones I had used, so I took the plastic ones out and replaced them with the PE. Windows were glazed with Krystal Klear. I don't think I mentioned previously that I have glazed all portholes and scuttles.


For a while, I felt there was something wrong with the stern. Looking through the references, I realized what was missing, and was very pleased to discover it in the kit parts, where it formed part of the stern ensign pole assembly. I had not noticed it before, as the Bismarck, at the time frame I am representing, had the ensign poles removed. I just cut the pole off and installed it after a little surgery of the railings.

_________________
Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything.
Wyatt Earp

The following, however, took up most of my week's work: the crew and the masts


A goodly number of L'Arsenal and Goffy figures had to be painted. I felt as if I had to paint ants!!!


From the left, 2 L'Arsenal figures, 2 Goffy figures, a Fujimi plastic figure and a pre-painted Pit Road figure for comparison purposes. The resin ones are undoubtedly finer, but definitely more expensive, as you have wastage with arms and legs breaking off.


I decided that i will not be replacing the whole masts but only their top parts. This is the result of my soldering efforts.

Hopefully I will be able to show you the complete masts next weekend.

_________________
Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything.
Wyatt Earp

Update time again... However, now that I am uploading the pictures, i am afraid this is a rather boring update, as all I have to show you is masts! I spent the past week working on them. As I generally dislike plastic masts, i decided to see what I could do with soldered brass. Since the Bismarck's masts, the lower parts in particular, are of substantial diameter, I concluded that my best bet would be to go for mixed construction: I would replace the (thinner) upper parts of the masts, together with the yardarms, with brass, and keep the thicker plastic lower parts. I used BMK masts and scratchbuilt yardarms from 20 thousand rod. The masts come in various lengths, but, being intended for 1/700 I believe, are a bit thinner than they should be. As I do not own a lathe, no other option was available. In my eyes, they do not look too bad, but you'd be surprised to know the trouble I had photographing them! Hopefully, when the model is completed and photographed in natural light they will be seen better.

So: plastic lower masts, BMK upper masts, brass yardarms and a combination of WEM, Eduard and scratchbuilt details. First, pictures showing them unpainted.


Obviously, the easiest was the small mast over the rear director.


Then, the foremast


..but most of the work was put on the mainmast! As per the Anatomy book, exhausts (diesel???) from plastic rod were added, while I used the WEM rudder indicators (box structure in the picture) instead of the Eduard ones as they were more accurate. Note to fellow builders: neither the WEM nor the Eduard parts fit properly on the Revell plastic box. I used Evergreen strip as spacers to extend the size of the plastic box a little bit so the PE would fit as intended.

_________________
Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything.
Wyatt Earp

Another picture of the lower mainmast from a different angle


Top part of the mainmast. This was retractable in real life, and a "sheath" covers the lower part of the BMK brass part. This was made by filing plastic tube of the nearest correct diameter I could find. Just below it, the plastic supports of the platform were filed away and replaced by Lion Roar structural parts covered with filler to make the holes disappear


Another angle. Note scratchbuilt mast lights near the top. Reinforcing rings near the top part were made from Tamiya tape.

_________________
Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything.
Wyatt Earp

One of the few pictures that turned out well!


Same parts after painting:
Director

Foremast

_________________
Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything.
Wyatt Earp

...and painted mainmast from various angles




Next: crewing the ship, making a few more corrections, rigging and trying to improve the sea base a bit...

Another note to fellow builders: once you have added the PE, the top of starboard crane will not fit on its cradle. I think that the Eduard boat cradles on top of the forward hangars are a bit too tall, making a taller structure which prevents the crane from "sitting" properly. Port crane does sit properly though, so it may just be my clumsiness.A similar problem may occur when you try to fit the mainmast, especially if you add the exhausts like I did. Boats again!

_________________
Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything.
Wyatt Earp

Great progress so far on all of it! Nice paint, alignment (especially on those masts!) . Very tiring and tedious working on all those figures, but the results are certainly worth the effort!

_________________
Enlisted men are stupid, but very cunning and deceitful and bear considerable watching." - Marine Corps Officers Manual, 1894

http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

Nice work on the masts Anthony.
Regards
Richard

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SI VIS PACEM,
PARA BELLUM

My apologies for the delay in this final update of my Bismarck build. For some reason, real life obligations have kept interfering with my personal priorities!
So, what have I done since my last update?

First, apart from general cleaning up and straightening bent PE, I made a couple of corrections.

The Bismarck, at the time i am depicting her, did not have a bow flagstaff. This made me wonder how the railings should end at the bow, if not tensioned/supported by either the flagstaff or a stanchion at the curve of the bow. I concluded it would be more realistic to finish them by having a diagonal chain/cable from the last stanchion to the deck.


I also did not like the way the railings looked at the stern, so I replaced them with scrap which was in line with the op of the rest of the railings.


I then rigged and placed the cranes. Fellow Bismarck builders should note two problems: a) with the Eduard railing and boat cradle PE for the front hangars, the starboard crane will not sit on its cradle. I opted to show the crane in movement and put a couple of crew figures at the controls. b) I was not able to fully rig the cranes, as the Revell plastic part has solid moulding at its narrow part, thus preventing rigging underneath it, while the WEM PE crane, while properly designed, does not fit on the Revell base (cab) of the crane (remember, it is designed for the Tamiya kit). As a result, I only rigged the top 4 wires, which actually do not look too bad. Stretched sprue was used.


I then crewed the ship. This is a picture of the bridge as an example.


As I was not happy with the sea, I played with oils, and gave the water near the ship a greenish tinge. I am still not happy, but it is an improvement.

_________________
Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything.
Wyatt Earp

Then the masts were mounted and rigging began. Again, fellow builders should note that the foremast, when fitted in the hole provided by Eduard on the PE walkway between the funnel and the bridge does not sit straight and should be adjusted.

I used the stretched sprue method for the rigging. Mr Baumann is correct: it works and it looks better than anything else. On the other hand, it is delicate and needs a lot of practice to get it right. Being clumsy does not help! Over the span of two weeks, I had to dismount the masts twice in order to clean them up and re-did the rigging about 4 times till I was satisfied with it...

Another note: Mr Baumann recommends contact cement, and I wondered whether it would work with the brass masts. i does work with no problems (I used Revell Contacta) and leaves substantially fewer residues than white glue.


The flags were sourced from the new Hawk Graphics Kriegsmarine flag set. The decals were placed on lead(?) foil from a wine bottle to they could be bent to simulate fluttering in the wind.


A custom namepate was added to the base


And in rough terms that was it. A very enjoyable but also stressfull build. Aren't they all?


I will post pictures of the completed model on the "completed builds section". Thank you all for following this build. I hope you enjoyed it.

_________________
Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything.
Wyatt Earp

Anthony,

I really enjoyed reading about your build - it is inspirational! I am getting research materials together to start a 1/200 build of the Trumpeter Bismarck. One reference I'm really trying to get a copy of is Josef Kaiser's Bismarck books - if you know of any sources I'd be very grateful!

Again, beautiful build!

John
jlbishop@wideopenwest.com