Annealing P/E

Post here for tips on modeling.

Moderator: JIM BAUMANN

Post Reply
7713MC
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2012 11:02 am

Annealing P/E

Post by 7713MC »

Tried this on my FFG-7 on a few small pieces and it worked great. To save some time, would anyone recommend annealing the entire sheet prior to cutting off the individual parts?? I'd appreciate any do/dont's on this idea from all you experts.
Also, what's best for cleaning the soot off the metal if I use a candle??
Thank you!!

Pete
Russ2146
Posts: 2126
Joined: Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:28 pm
Location: Egg Harbor Twp, NJ

Re: Annealing P/E

Post by Russ2146 »

First, don't use a candle, the soot deposit has unburned material in it and the deposit is slightly greasy and you may have to rub to get it off. Rubbing PE tends to bend things. Butane lighters are what I've used, Or, an alcohol burner if you can find one. I'm about to experiment cleaning PE with an Ultrasonic jewelry cleaner they sell at Harbor Freight for $30 or $40. That may work for candle soot if you use alcohol for the liquid.
Guest

Re: Annealing P/E

Post by Guest »

An alcohol burners are cheep and don't leave residue like other methods will. Lighters are not too bad as long as you don't get too close. They can smut the part if you get too close. I haven't tryed a whole sheet yet. Been afraid it would make the part too soft to cut free without damage.

If you smut the peice clean it with a soap and water mixture. Dish washing liquid is best because it will remove oils. Don't use anything with ammonia. It will cause tarnish.

When putting parts in an ultrasonic use a tea strainer to hold the parts. That way you won't have to hunt for them or have to anneal them again. If you part lays on the bottom it will harden and may actually wear through if you forget it. Don't use jewelry cleaner or products with ammonia either. Cleaners made for nobel metals, ,old, silver or platinum may erode your PE parts.
Post Reply

Return to “Tips and Tricks”