1/350 Kirov (Trumpeter Modified)

[carr]

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[ozpirate]

I've been working on mine also and it's almost ready for water trials.

[carr]

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[Sauragnmon]

I don't know if it ever got fully resolved, Bob, but here's a quick shakedown of the deck colours:

Black - Antiskid topping, used primarily on the weather deck - this is why most ship shots only show the bottom deck is black.

Red/Brown/Orange - Main deck paint, potentially lightening with weathering. Note how most of the darker deck shots show a very fresh looking coat of paint.

Green - commonly seen as a primer coat, or used on helicopter pads. Could be used, potentially, for improved visibility with NV, since NV operates in the green spectrum of light, and the red decks would probably show up almost as black as the water.

[carr]

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[JimRussell]

Bob,

Glad to see that all combustibles have been incinerated and you are at it again, accumulating a new batch. Could not resist the temptation to check the date on page 1 (June 2009), after almost 4 years you are entitled. A tip of the hat to your persistence and quality.

[Admhawk]

Bob, glad to see you back at it! Excellent work as usual!

One thing, I think the blades are the same width. If you look at the photos of the two different sides, the narrower blade is always closest to the camera. This makes me think it is a perspective issue and not a physical difference.

Cheers!
Darren

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[GTDEATH13]

Why no detail at the back of the dish?

Good to see you back at the build Bob

[carr]

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[Niall]

On the blades at the rear of the radar, I think they are balancing weights so that the mounting can be stabalised to compensate for the ship's roll.

[carr]

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[ozpirate]

Looks great mate. Just hope I can get similar detail on my 1/72 model of the Frunze. My deck goes on soon.

[carr]

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[LE BOSCO]

Hello Bob

it is always a pleasure to see your progress,great precision work

Cheers
nicolas

[ozpirate]

ozpirate, I envy you being able to work in that large scale. The amount of detail that could be added is staggering. Unfortunately, I have no space big enough to accomodate a monster like that! I'm looking forward to seeing more of it.
Here's an odd question. Do you find you put more detail into that large scale or less detail because it's meant for RC and has to be rugged enough to handle? I could see it going either way. Just curious.

Hmm well I guess it depends on what it is and where it's located. and how I feel on the day (Most important) I'll do my best but in the end being a RC model will make the difference in the end. Last thing I need is to be repairing every time she goes out.

[navydavesof]

Bob, again great work! She is going to look so good assembled.

[prowler0000]

I turn my back for 2 minutes (4 months....), & look what you did!!


May i ask, whats left to do now?

[Christian M.]

Hello what brand and colors of paint are you using?

Thanks for stopping by! Unfortunately, you're not going to like my answer. I don't worry much about colors and trying to match to "correct" colors. My view (many, many modellers would disagree!) is that the effects of scale distance, weathering, and other factors render the attempt to match paint a pointless exercise. So, I just eyeball match an approximate color, lighten it about 20%, and call it good enough. With the accuracy bar set that low, I just use whatever colors and brands I happen to have on hand and mix my own shades as needed. I don't even record my own mixes. If I have to make another batch and it happens to be a bit different in shade, that's fine. Real ships are not uniform unless they're fresh from drydock.

The best I can offer is that for this build, FS36320 has been the base of my grays and I tend to use Model Master Acryl paint more often than not.

Sorry! I know that's not the answer you were hoping for.

Regards,
Bob

Hi Bob,
out of 25 years experience in modelling -most of it with 1/35 military, since 1.5 years shifted to ships- I totally agree with your comment and point of view!
No offence against anyone using correct RAL/RLM, FS or whatever standard colour ... but if not building a clean model without any weathering, rust streaks etc., my opinion was and is always that the so called scale effect (as smaller the model, as more lighten is the original colour) and the weathering effect too are an important point in painting.
So out of this I work same way as you with mixing my colours and rarely using the named standard colour only. Every 1 colour shade is also at least made of 3 - 4 different colours to match these effects + lightning and darkening effect by dry brushing and using oil colours.

So good to read and see that someone has same opinions as I have