A proper 1/700 Yugumo class DD

[MartinJQuinn]

Unless I keep reworking everything.

That could be a problem...

Regarding the builds, what Devin said.

[Dan K]

Wow, thx to all. Inspiration to actually finish these.

I 'm still wondering if anyone else has had similar issues with the uni caenis line and found a better solution? My Dai RIkki won't last forever.

[Timmy C]

I've never had problems using a combination of white glue and CA for my Caenis.

[Allan McBeath]

Dan the problem your having with the Ceanis is the glue. dont use CA.

David Grifiths is the master of this stuff and writes about it a lot in his book. Not sure if you have it? I think he has a thread about it here too.
Best technique is to get rigging in place and anchor it with blue tac or similar at both ends so it relatively taught and in position.

Glue to use is postal gum.Its stronger and more versatile than white glue.You use less , its less visible and is more soluble than white glue. Paper gum is the water soluble children's gum glue you use gluing paper when you were at primary school. Its normally transparent or slightly brown. You find it in stationers. Dilute some glue put it on the rigging point with a 00 brush. dries fast.A few min? then later you come back and cut all your rigging with a brand new scalpel blade.
Now the glue evaporates and shrinks unlike CA so its less visible. Is plenty strong enough for this job and it dries transparent. For rigging to rigging joins you use varnish as the glue.

All of Davids stuff uses this technique so look up his work and youll see its a pretty good rigging solution. http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

[MartinJQuinn]

I 'm still wondering if anyone else has had similar issues with the uni caenis line and found a better solution? My Dai RIkki won't last forever.

Yes, I've had similar issues try to attach it with CA.

I have the "gum" glue that Allan speaks of, but haven't had the chance (or the "gum"-ption) to use it yet....

[Allan McBeath]

Matin get with the gum!!

[sgtryan13]

I have found that the caenis is slightly resistive, in that I do not get an instant bond. I have found that I need to hold the caenis in place for a couple seconds sometimes for the bond to set, which when doing intricate rigging like yours, trying to hold it in place a couple seconds may as well be an eternity. I have found that I can get a more instant grab if I dampen the end of the caenis line on my tongue right before I attach the line. I think it is the moisture that reacts with the CA glue instantly, kind of like how you have a second or 2 of play on a part you attach with CA, but it bonds your fingers instantly.

Wow, re-reading that I just realized that i use "I have found" way too much, looks like i need to expand my vocabulary.

Beautiful work as always Dan!

[Dan K]

Thank you all for your thoughts on the caenis. I actually attended David Griffith's rigging tutorial at one of the NATS (was it KC?), but never had need for it until now, I guess. I'll try Ryan's approach first, as it seems a bit easier, though Ryan, you are correct about it being challenging in those tight spaces. I'm not grading your vocabulary; I got your point just fine, thank you.

I've already stripped Naganami's rear mast for rework w/o breaking anything. Amazing but nerve-wracking.

[Timmy C]

I have found that I can get a more instant grab if I dampen the end of the caenis line on my tongue right before I attach the line. I think it is the moisture that reacts with the CA glue instantly,

On the same principle, I use my breath as an accelerator - just gently breathe out the same way you would to blow warm air on your hands on a cold day.

[blacman]

I 'm still wondering if anyone else has had similar issues with the uni caenis line and found a better solution? My Dai RIkki won't last forever.

Hi Dan
How about to try playing with wires?. I believe that 0.05mm cuprum or brass wire goes well.
I played with my Takao only with 0.1mm brass wires and it was easy and effective.

[Dan K]

Some last shots. I added oars to the 7m cutters, and almost added aftermarket washbasins from Joe World (located portside, aft the forecastle break ) but, it was too hard to place w/o damaging the surroundign area. At some point, I'll take shots for the gallery. Thx again to everyone for their encouragement. Took much longer than expected.

[Devin]

Beautiful work, as always. Nice!

[Stein Gildberg]

Regarding Caenis and glue: I�ve seen David perform his work with the UNI Caenis thread and was much impressed (he even helped me re-rigging my Tirpitz after some spectators looked to �hard� at an exhibition)!

The way he does it is by securing the thread by sticky gum outside (forward, rear, left and / or right) of the model itself. Imagine: Securing point / sticky gum to mast � to next mast point � to securing point / sticky gum.
Only then does he apply a small amount of rubber glue, and when dry he cut of the surplus thread.
His main objection against CA is that while rubber glue shrinks to �nothing� when drying, CA does not, and if you apply too much CA � it forms lumps of glue.

My problem turned out to be how to get my hands on the gum / gum arabicum, rubber glue etc. I use the hints I got from David, but after lots of searches in the Internet, I was unable to find a supplier of the stuff.

So: I have used Caenis, and the use of Caenis, CA and sticky gum is an acceptable way to go. I still prefer stretch sprue over Caenis though, as the pieces are straight and hence easy to position in tight spots and angle from point to point. And I work hard not to use too much CA!

Stein

[Joe Simon]

Love it Dan. Hope to see it in VB.

[PetrolGator]

Jeez. I'm not sure I'm even worthy to look at these. Wonderful, Dan.

[J. Soca]

Another little jewel there Dan Do you have any plans for an Akizuki class? that is one mean DD I'd like to see done by you!


regards

Jose

[Dan K]

Thx, everybody.

Stein - while familiar with David's technique, I realize that I hadn't considered the rubber glue. Clearly, the CA doesn't work well (enough). OTOH, I do secure the line with low tack tape, which works just as well. More experimentation is needed. Maybe with streched sprue as well.

Jose - plans, yes, Soon, no. I've actually thought about kitbashing the 1/700 Fujimi and PitRoad kits. One day.

[krgf15]

This is mind blowing. Makes it hard to look at my own IJN fleet.

[MartinJQuinn]

Holy Moley, those are nice. Not to mention they look like they are 350th scale in the photos.

I can see much angst for the judges at MosquitoCon next April 5th.

[Dan K]

I can see much angst for the judges at MosquitoCon next April 5th.

I do it out of love, M. At least I'll have something this year to show.