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 Post subject: model diorama
PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:25 am 
Hey guys,

I have a diecast model of the battleship Yamato and will be getting the light cruiser Yahagi and 3 destroyers and I was just wondering how you would go about making a diorama.

What's the best material to use. I'm assuming I can use a plank of wood but what would be best used to replicate the ocean and the wakes of the ships?

Any advice would greatly be appreciated.



Rick


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 8:52 am 
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Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne, England
For the sea base, there are numerous methods but a lot of people use acrylic gel which is easy to use can be shaped before it sets - you should be able to get it at your local artists supplier.

HTH

John


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 5:53 pm 
I live in a small town and I have yet to see an art store. Would foil paper spray painted in blue work well to replicate the ocean? I think I have a pretty good idea of what to use for the wakes. Perhaps a fine white powder would do the trick.

Anyway, if you have more feedback, it would be great. Thanks!



Rick


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 1:41 am 
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Foil paper can certainly act as a good starting point, in fact, I'm using it on my latest diorama. Heres a pic of what it looks like with the first base coat of blue down:

Image

An alternative to acrylic gel is clear silicon sealer that you use to seal around baths.

HTH

John


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:29 am 
That looks very good indeed. So what did you use for the coat of blue?



Rick


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 10:32 am 
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It's phthalo blue (phthalocyanine) acrylic paint - needs a lot more painting to get the final effect.

If you do decide to go this route, I've found it's best to put down an initial coat of white as a basecoat.

HTH

John


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 2:03 pm 
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Location: Palm Harbor, Florida
The cheapest method is one introduced by Frank Isle. You paint board with acrylic paint and cover it with clear silicone from Home Depot. Here is my Slava on a such base.

Image

Image

Here is his article.
http://www.carrierbuilders.net/articles/20050526_Realistic_Water/20050526_Realistic_Water.htm

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Last edited by 350z on Thu Feb 02, 2006 3:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 2:57 pm 
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Looks great 350z

John


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 3:02 pm 
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I used Frank IlseĀ“s method too and got very pleasing results. This is my first attempt ever at building water:

http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

It is quite easy and quick to build. I keep thanking Frank for his article, which pushed me to do it.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 6:05 pm 
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Location: linz/vienna austria
also only can recommend franks method! easy, cheap and good looking!!


http://photobucket.com/albums/a336/stu_ ... 010118.jpg



http://photobucket.com/albums/a336/stu_ ... 010116.jpg


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 5:59 pm 
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All very nice but I think Tony Bunch does the most realistic water.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 11:16 am 
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coberg1 wrote:
All very nice but I think Tony Bunch does the most realistic water.


This is not a contest for most realistic water.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 11:45 am 
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I have tried a number of different ways to model water, celluclay, sculpey clay, gel medium and I always dislike it and try adding something else or starting over. I was eventually satisfied with the results of my 1/350th Missouri's water base seen in the gallery under my name. I started with a board with a blue base then tried the celluclay which is a form of paper mache, painted the celluclay and wasn't satisfied, it then cracked after drying so I applied gel medium over the celluclay for depth and then dry brushed over the gel medium with a really watered down sea blue and white for white caps. Do whatever you think will look good and just give it your damnedess.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 3:02 pm 
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Apologies for resurecting this thread but, having no acrylic gel to hand I've just tried a slight variation on Franks method and I have to say the results are the best water I've ever managed.

First, I crumpled tin foil into a ball and the flattened it out and stuck it to my base - this leaves plenty wrinkles in the foil to represent waves. Next, I cut out spaces for the ships, then painted as per Frank's method. I then added a coat of gloss acrylic varnish before adding the silicon again, as per Frank's method.

Still got to do the whitecaps and the wakes but it's a simple, effective method that also happens to be a LOT cheaper than acrylic gel.

John


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