3D pens for making rigging
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- BombMagnet
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- Location: Germany
3D pens for making rigging
Anybody try this yet?
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biggles2
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Re: 3D pens for making rigging
From what I've previously seen, the lines produced from the pen are way too thick for ratlines, rigging, etc. Unless the thickness is adjustable. 
- BombMagnet
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Re: 3D pens for making rigging
Someone was kind enough to lend me their 3D pen (3Doodle, ver.1) and I was able to test it. The results were fantastic! There were two kinds of plastic available (ABS and PLA, not sure exactly what the difference is. Perhaps someone can chime in on that?) I used black ABS plastic and was able to make consistent threads with almost no practice. I started the pen out on a piece of cardboard, created a blob to anchor it, and then pulled up vertically.
The particular pen I used had two speeds, low and high. The high �speed� was obviously a higher, faster output. By choosing a speed option and adjusting the speed at which I pull, I was able to make about three different thicknesses. The high setting combined with pulling up slowly made the thickest lines. The low setting combined with pulling up quickly made the thinned lines. Any other combination made a sort of medium thickness line.
The thick lines have probably no application in shipbuilding (fortunately I have a WWI biplane that needs some struts!), but IMO the medium or thins line would work well. The thinnest line would work at least on 1/350 at least, possibly on 1/700.
I highly recommend this as a possible alternative to stretched sprue, but if you are already using some kind of commercially available thread or line, then that would obviously be easier. For me personally is a great solution since I was never a fan of stretching sprue.
The particular pen I used had two speeds, low and high. The high �speed� was obviously a higher, faster output. By choosing a speed option and adjusting the speed at which I pull, I was able to make about three different thicknesses. The high setting combined with pulling up slowly made the thickest lines. The low setting combined with pulling up quickly made the thinned lines. Any other combination made a sort of medium thickness line.
The thick lines have probably no application in shipbuilding (fortunately I have a WWI biplane that needs some struts!), but IMO the medium or thins line would work well. The thinnest line would work at least on 1/350 at least, possibly on 1/700.
I highly recommend this as a possible alternative to stretched sprue, but if you are already using some kind of commercially available thread or line, then that would obviously be easier. For me personally is a great solution since I was never a fan of stretching sprue.
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biggles2
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Re: 3D pens for making rigging
This definitely looks interesting! I would like to see the results on a ship model. Is it cost-effective? ie; stretched sprue is free! Can you construct the lines directly on a model, or elsewhere then transfer them to the model? What other applications would the 3D pen have besides rigging lines, for model building? 
- wefalck
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Re: 3D pens for making rigging
I can see applications for free-form objects, such as building-up figurines, but don't think it would be suitable for objects that should have a geometrically well-defined form. The latter includes rigging lines for me, btw.
Eberhard
Former chairman Arbeitskreis historischer Schiffbau e.V. (German Association for Shipbuilding History)
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Former chairman Arbeitskreis historischer Schiffbau e.V. (German Association for Shipbuilding History)
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- BombMagnet
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- Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2012 2:05 am
- Location: Germany
Re: 3D pens for making rigging
I totally agree. Free-handing it to make some shapes would be very difficult. This is why 3D pens never really did well on the market. The rigging lines were easy because you can pull it straight up and the tension created automatically made it straight. It truly was quick and easy. As we would say in the Marine Corps, it is "private proof."wefalck wrote:I can see applications for free-form objects, such as building-up figurines, but don't think it would be suitable for objects that should have a geometrically well-defined form. The latter includes rigging lines for me, btw.
I would NOT attempt to do this straight on the model. When the plastic first comes out it does not have the consistency you need. The anchor point on the model would be a small blob. Anchor it first to some cardboard, pull it straight up in the air, remove it from the cardboard, and then then cut it to size. The cost of the plastic is not expensive, but you do need to make the initial investment on the pen. Sprue is free of course!
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MatthewB
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Re: 3D pens for making rigging
The plastic you would want to use for modeling would be ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene). It is the plastic most used for Injection molding, as it responds to most volatiles by melting (thus allowing glues to work better on it).
PLA (Polylactic Acid), tends to be more resistant to solvents (and thus glues). We use it in the lab an awful lot at school. You use PLA plastic when you want something that is going to be subjected to heat and solvents. Microwavable trays are often made of PLA plastic.
The 3D pens do look to be able to make rigging, but would it not be easier to just buy some 36" long x .010" dia. styrene rods?
That would seem to be less expensive than buying a 3D pen.
MB
PLA (Polylactic Acid), tends to be more resistant to solvents (and thus glues). We use it in the lab an awful lot at school. You use PLA plastic when you want something that is going to be subjected to heat and solvents. Microwavable trays are often made of PLA plastic.
The 3D pens do look to be able to make rigging, but would it not be easier to just buy some 36" long x .010" dia. styrene rods?
That would seem to be less expensive than buying a 3D pen.
MB
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Working on:
1/700 (All Fall 1942):
HIJMS Nagara
HIJMS Aoba & Kinugasa
USS San Francisco
USS Helena
USS St. Louis
USS Laffey & Farenholt
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 4 - 7
HIJMS Sub-Chasers No. 13 - 16