Trick for supergluing PE parts

[MatthewB]

I thought I might share this, after adding some of my first PE details to a kit (generic details - railings, and de-gaussing cables), since I have seen others who have had difficulties with PE parts.

When applying superglue, there is a need to get enough for a stable and strong joint, and a danger of applying too much, and flooding the model.

I have two tips for this:

1) An applicator:

Most people say "Use a needle or piece of wire."

Well, this is hard to get enough superglue with one go, and requires a lot of dipping, applying, dipping, applying, scraping hardened glue off the applicator, dipping, applying.....

So, I thought of a tool used in old-school drafting for drawing lines, or inking with a compass. It is essentially two pointed pieces of metal, with a gap between them, which come to a point that is JUST separate (the two pieces do not touch).

So, I got two pieces of brass rod (about .020 inch in diameter and about 11/16" long each - a little longer than 5/8"; between 1/2" and 3/4"), and sharpened both with a file, and then flattened one side of them each. Then I took a piece of styrene rod (1/32"), and I flattened two opposing sides of the end, to reduce the gap to about 3/128" (a little bit wider than half the width of the 1/32" rod).

I think took the two sharpened brass rods, and leveled their tips to each other by placing the tips on the table surface, while holding both upright with their flat surfaces facing each other, and then using Tamiya Masking tape to tape them together (at the tip). This is important in being able to control the flow of the superglue at the precise location (if you get the hang of it, you can make tools like this with the tips unequal so as to apply superglue to strangely angled locations, but it requires a lot of skill to get it right).

Then, pull the far ends slightly apart and superglue them to the flat surfaces on the end of the 1/32" styrene rod. Cut the styrene rod down to an inch or so in length, and drill a hole in an old paintbrush handle, and then insert (and glue) the styrene rod into the paintbrush handle, and then remove the masking take from the tips (you may have to clean some superglue from the tips, if you were not careful in gluing them.

Now, using a pair of needle-nose pliers, slightly open the tips by about 1/128" (only slightly apart).

Then, when you dip the tip into superglue, capillary action will pull superglue up into the gap.

Now, onto how to control how much glue you have in that gap.

2) Controlling excess superglue (either on the tool, or on the model).

Get a sheet of manilla paper, or other slightly thick, but absorbent paper.

Paper does not readily stick to superglue until it has been saturated by superglue.

Until then, it acts as a sponge for superglue.

So, when you think you have too much glue in your new "nib" (that is what the part is called, described in the first part), you touch it quickly to this paper (in an area that has NOT been touched before), and it will draw out some (or all, if you are not careful) of the glue.

Also, if you get too much superglue on your model, have several paper q-tip rods (with the cotton pulled off, and then as much of the end cut off as possible to eliminate the glue where the cotton was attached (this glue WILL ADHERE TO SUPERGLUE - but the paper rod will not) which can then be used to wick-up the excess superglue on the model. Use a very light touch, and quick touch. You can use the tip roughly two or three times before it will start to adhere, and then you can cut off about 1/16" of the rod to continue using it.

Using these new tools, I may switch to using superglue to assemble my models now, given the speed with which it dries to a workable consistency compared to liquid styrene glue.

MB

[hawkeye3d]

You came pretty close to describing Voyager Models TEZ042 stainless steel super glue applicators. Just google that and you can find pictures as well as several suppliers. For myself I've been using them and love um


Bob

[MatthewB]

You came pretty close to describing Voyager Models TEZ042 stainless steel super glue applicators. Just google that and you can find pictures as well as several suppliers. For myself I've been using them and love um


Bob

Good to know that I have re-invented the wheel. . .


Oh well....


MB

[scottj]

I'm cheap so when my wife's sewing machine needles get dull I take them. Just clip the point off in the eye and you get a nifty little super-glue applicator. You can choose how deep to make the U by where you cut and her needles even have a channel to wick up more glue if I want. When it gets clogged I just take it to the stove and burn away the gunk.

[MatthewB]

I'm cheap so when my wife's sewing machine needles get dull I take them. Just clip the point off in the eye and you get a nifty little super-glue applicator. You can choose how deep to make the U by where you cut and her needles even have a channel to wick up more glue if I want. When it gets clogged I just take it to the stove and burn away the gunk.

I had thought about using sewing needles, and cutting off the tip of the eye.

But I didn't have any needles, and I did have brass rods.

The needle trick would work as well, but will not hold as much glue as the other tool. But that isn't always a good thing.

MB