The Ship Model Forum

I use Gunzes without any clear, I do thin them about 2 part thinner to 1 part paint making them really thin and translucent.

For the linoleum I used cocoa brown H17 as base then a H17 mixed with H66 sandy brown about 50/50. Then the afromentioned tints for the different panels.

Although I used Gunze paints before on a wingy build of mine, I didn't seem to remember they dried so glossy. Not quite the same as my Tammis which are dead flat. Well, nice to know ^^ What are you going to use for the grey?

They are pretty much semigloss to gloss, but with enough thinner they get even more "glossier".
There are 3 different lines of them if I'm correct, 2 acrylic lines and 1 laqouer. The latter is the best one but stinks like hell and harder to clean.
I myself use the Mr Hobby Aqueous line.

For the gray I'm using H69 base color then H69 mixed with H325 Gray FS26440 for the highlights.

And the hull red is complete!

Last layer was painted with insignia red H327. My weapon of choice was a cut piece of paper for mask. I laid it horizontally starting from the bow.
First I airbrushed the decremation line, then more into the middle of the panels. After everything I went through the whole hull overspraying and making the effect more subtle.





And a nice closeup for the effect!



Now it's time for it to wait a few days just to be sure it cures nicely. Even though the paint is dry to touch, the masking tape can leave a glue residue on the paint and getting smudges and fingerprints.
By the end of the weekend I'm sure we have the hull painting completed. Then on to the weathering...

I like the way you have made the panel lines. I am waiting for weathering.

Jorge

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Beautiful Girls in your city

Hi,

The effect is spot on! However, to me the pattern looks too uniform i.e. all the hull plates have buckled in the same manner. Perhaps some filters to tone down the effect in some parts of the hull bottom to make it more natural? Weathering effects that I suspect you are going to apply in any case will probably do the trick as well. Excellent job in any case!

Jari

Hey Jari thanks for the comments.

On the picture above they do seem fairly uniform, even though that wasn't my intention at all. And yes it's gonna recieve a lot of filters washes and all kinds of garbage thrown at it for sure!

All of us could go "hey that's not right" seeing the early pics. Just wait til the end and you will see what he gets!
Can't wait to see the finished hull pics!
Aur

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On the way:
1/350 Tamiya DKM Tirpitz Nov 1944

1/350 scratch-build HMS Lion never built battleship (1938)

Completed build:
1/350 AFV Club Japanese Submarine I-58

And our artworks!

Great build. An education in weathering, not to mention inspiring as well...


Cheers,

Rob

Action stations!

Aaah, this should be fun

Tonights operation.

Once again, first preshaded with black.





And base gray between panels and overspray.







Then a lighter shade.







Then finally even lighter and with a sheet of paper as a mask.

I only managed to do one side, the job itself is time consuming and tedious. I also kept stuff random, placing the mask horizontally and picking hard edges randomly.





It's way too stark for my taste at the moment and will recieve overspray for toning it down.

And the missing tone downed pictures

Fantastic, fastidious work and very effective.

However, I would say that the panels are too small and secondly, would the alternate rows not be staggered as in a brick wall, otherwise this would introduce weakness in the hull?

Cheers, Jabb

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HMS Hood, the big one!

I used to be indecisive, now I'm not so sure.

In fact they should be even more tinier. It's an effect called bulging or oil canning. It's hard to say what size they'd be as she lays in the bottom of the ocean with only photos from the 40s that quite don't
have the sharpness to show it. You probably could make a better guess if you had the plans showing the ribbing inside so you could make deductions how they'd appear.
Also I'm fairly certain the ribs go from bottom to top as it would compromise integrity if they did not go.

I'm just trying to simulate a more "intresting" surface on such "empty" space.

Here's a photo showing them on a modern ship. They range from tiny to not so tiny



A bit small image but you'll get the idea.

Great paintwork!
That should provide a great base for further painting/weathering.
Thanks for the step-by-steps!

Cheers,

Marijn

And here's the finished port side.





Weathering begins tomorrow!

Just looked it up in the Anatomy series, the side plates were 6m x 3.6m equating to a scale size of roughly 170mm x 100mm so not that far out!

Cheers, Jabb.

PS. Can't wait to see your weathering technique!

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HMS Hood, the big one!

I used to be indecisive, now I'm not so sure.

Wow, that is a very impressive effect.

Some weathering progress.

First I applied 2 filters. One neutral gray on the upper hull parts and a 2nd one using raw sienna to the lower parts.
After that a wash using Wash for nato tanks was applied to all the details (port holes, degaussing cable etc).
I kept it really light.







After this some chipping was created with a sponge technique. First some light gray , concentrating on all raised details and hard edges.
Then a second pass with hull red to show rust. I kept this to minimum as at that point she'd have not got much rust to speak of.





After that I did some streaking on the lower hull under waterline using AKs streaking grime.





Then some salt build up on the waterline. Brushed AKs salt streaks straight into the waterline.
Added some green grime for random places aswell.



Then I took a brush and damped it with thinner and started dapping the brush going through the salt line.
Let it dry for a few minutes then repeated the process.





Then the upper hull got some streaking aswell. First with the salt streaks.
Then with streaking grime. I kept the salt ones random and blended them in more.
Grime ones concentrated on details.





Lastly some rust streaks from the few parts that got rust.

That looks too nice! AKs sets are indeed must-haves for weathering ships! O Money, please come to me!

Aop

_________________
On the way:
--1/350 Tamiya DKM Tirpitz Nov 1944

--1/350 scratch-build HMS Lion never built battleship (1938)

And our artworks!

Great job!!
Be careful when you get to the screws (propellers) installment. Pontos instruction could get their brass screws positions wrong. The Tamiya is correct as I recall, so follow it closely. LH turns counter-clockwise, RH clockwise!

Cheers,
Aop

_________________
On the way:
1/350 Tamiya DKM Tirpitz Nov 1944

1/350 scratch-build HMS Lion never built battleship (1938)

Completed build:
1/350 AFV Club Japanese Submarine I-58

And our artworks!