For many of us, 3D printed parts are a new technology for model ship building. Preparing and painting these parts is a bit different than the techniques we use for injection-molded polystyrene plastic. And finding products is difficult if using Shapeways' search engine.
So here's a thread for those with some experience and advice to post their thoughts.
Tip #1. Finding Products. Shapeways search engine is awful. Don't use it. Instead, go to Google (or Yahoo, or whatever your favorite search engine is) and type in something like "1:700 Shapeways Bofors". Works much better.
Tip #2. Cleaning and painting.Painting 3D-printed parts by Shapeways is not the same as painting polystyrene plastic kit parts. But worry not, dear reader!
First, clean your parts thoroughly. Clean your new parts with a mild, water-based detergent like "Dawn". "Fairy" or "Simple Green" in water. Let your parts soak for a few hours to remove any wax.
Do NOT use acetone, Goo Gone or mineral spirits. They can dissolve the plastic.
Place your "Frosted Detail" parts in direct sunlight or under an ultra-violet light (UV) lamp for several hours (more is better) to fully harden the resin. "Frosted Detail" plastics are made from from liquid acrylic chemically cured to a solid by exposure to ultraviolet "UV" light. UV light breaks down an inhibitor in the resin permitting the liquid resin to harden. Sometimes, microscopic bits of liquid resin remain uncured within the part. It's true: some paints, notably
enamels, simply will not cure on "Frosted Detail" plastics if any of the resin remains uncured. There is a simple solution:
let your parts sit in direct sunlight for a few hours before painting them. Placing your parts under a UV lamp works even faster, in about an hour.
Once your parts are fully hardened, enamel paints such as Colourcoats can work. But first you have to make sure the resin is absolutely fully hardened by UV light before using enamels. The Sun is your friend. If in any doubt, for best results on "Frosted Detail" plastics from Shapeways, use acrylic paint specifically meant for plastics.
Even with acrylic paints, some modelers experience a kind of staining which can develop
after painting. This is caused, again, by microscopic amounts of liquid resin in the parts. Sunlight
before painting is the cure.
Pat Matthews describes this staining phenomenon and cure in a very good article here:http://www.wmunderway.8m.com/cgi/yabb2/ ... 1448921837Author's edit (23 July 2017): do NOT use "Goo Gone" or "Bestine" to clean your products.