1/96 H.M.S. VICTORIOUS for R/C

[ARH]

If you keep going any longer you will have it finished, , looking good. ARH

[Dave Wooley]

Hi Geoff EXCELLENT job You certainly don't waste time . As your on a roll with Victorious it must be very tempting to just continue on? In fact another few weeks and the bulk of the model would be well prepared . Sorry I really shouldn't distract or even tempt you to continue. Disregard what I have said ! Good subject though.
Dave Wooley

[Victorious]

Hi Geoff EXCELLENT job You certainly don't waste time . As your on a roll with Victorious it must be very tempting to just continue on? In fact another few weeks and the bulk of the model would be well prepared . Sorry I really shouldn't distract or even tempt you to continue. Disregard what I have said ! Good subject though.
Dave Wooley

I want to get the gallery decks in place, get the flight deck cut out into the various sections and fit all the flight deck support beams, so that the main hull section is looking like an Aircraft Carrier. Then it will be put back in the Holding Dock, whilst work on Marlborough will continue, probably at the end of next week.

One thing about having two builds on the go, it makes a change to concentrate on one particular model, then for a change, go back to the other one. It also breaks the monotony of keep seeing the same ship on the work bench, or should I say SLIPWAY!

[Guest]

I like that shot of the bow, it's a fair size hull youve got there and it's not taken you long to get all those holes cut out.

It should look good when you get the flight deck on, looking forward to your progress. Nice job so far

[Dave Rowe]

Flippin' 'eck Geoff! You're not hanging about.Really great to see the piccies.

[D Manley]

About 9 years ago I scratch built a kingfisher in 1/96 scale for my USS Alabama, the idea was to cast it in expanding foam and shoot it from the catapult.
I got it balanced enough to glide but test launches just flung it end over end in a BACKFLIP manner and I gave up on it.
I plan to do this with my twin float planes on my 1/96 yamato but this is still way off, however I think that with the bigger plane and being able to launch it from its belly, it just might work!
I plan to make the planes for my carrier this way to keep the top weight down, but I might just see if I can throw one from a catapult too!
Things to remember if you cast foam planes is to use 2 part foam, not the insulation foam in a can! This stuff will shrink up on you and make a dented looking plane!
The moulds have to be kind of thick and tough too of the pressure will push the seems apart.
The plane I made came out of the mold with a smooth paintable skin and with the addition of a clear thermoform canopy; it looks like a plastic model!
That is how I will be doing it; just have to make some corsairs and TBM�s when I get a chance!

David Manley

[Guest]

I want to get the gallery decks in place, get the flight deck cut out into the various sections and fit all the flight deck support beams, so that the main hull section is looking like an Aircraft Carrier.

How have you shaped the frames and decks to fit the hull without gaps? It's easy doing it "the other way around" - making the hull around the frames. But is there a trick I'm missing to shape these pieces that fit into a pre-made hull?

Andy

[Guest]

Andy

I want to get the gallery decks in place, get the flight deck cut out into the various sections and fit all the flight deck support beams, so that the main hull section is looking like an Aircraft Carrier.

How have you shaped the frames and decks to fit the hull without gaps? It's easy doing it "the other way around" - making the hull around the frames. But is there a trick I'm missing to shape these pieces that fit into a pre-made hull?



I thought this would be easier that it looksand I put the same question to the Master Builder, Ron
He suggested I used thin card to make a template with. So this is what I did. First, I roughly cut the shape, then with scissor's keep trimming the curve, until it is as near as you can get.

Then using the template, I copy the shape onto a piece of plywood, draw round it and cut it our on the scroll saw to just slightly over size. Then gradually, sand the shape until I get a nice tight fit. They are then bonded in place using two part epoxy resin. It takes a while, with all the trial and error, but it is about the best way to go about it.


Victorious,

[Victorious]

Last post was obviously me, I must have got logged off, when I lost my internet connection.

[Victorious]

All Hands to Flying Stations

I have been concentrating mainly on getting the flight deck peices done today.

The first job, was to place the top edge of the hull with strips of wood, 5/8" x 3/16" thick, this also helped to get both sides level, as the port side is about 1/8" to 3/16" lower along it's length, compared to the starboard ( island) side. Strips of the wood was cut to length and then bonded to the upper edge of the hull with 2 part epoxy resin and levelled and adjusted, so that both sides were level across the witdh and length of the hull.





Once this had set, I turned my attention to cutting out the flight deck peices. There will be three main sections, all made to be removable, to gain access to the interior, and two end sections which will be fixed, the front piece which forms part of the round down and the rear section, which will form part of the rear round down.

I devised a method of cutting these sections, as I wanted to retain a nice clean join, where each section butts up the the others, so after marking out the cut line across the length of sheet ply (1/8" thickness) I clamped a long straight edge aginst the line held down with 'G' clamps, then using my trusty Stanley knife, I made several cuts until almost through the ply, then undid the clamped straight edge and then from the reverse, made the final cut through. This leaves a perfect straight edge, with matches the next section to be cut.



Up to press, I have cut the first two sections. The first section contains the front aircraft lift and launching catapult, so after marking out their positions, I cut out the track slot for the launching trolley, again, using a straight edge clamped at both ends. But this time, I used a mini drill with a 1/16" bit and drilled holes along the marked out line, the straight edge acting as a guide. Once this was done, I used a mini cutting disc and cut through the gaps between all the drilled holes until the whole length of the track (26 inches) had been cut. Here you can see the line of holes in the next photo and the one after that, the finished cut.





As this is intended to be a working catapult, whilst I was dealing with this section of the deck, I glued and screwed the trolley stop block, to the underside of the deck. The rest of this mechanism etc, will all be explained and shown, much later on in the build.



This next photo shows the first two sections in position. Note, these have yet to be trimmed along the edges to fit, which will be done when the build starts proper.



How about this for Little & Large

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e347/ ... 3_0012.jpg

Enjoy Victorious

[ARH]

Yer they are a couple of comedians like YOU and I geoff, looking very good. ARH

[Dave Wooley]

Hi Geoff I am really impressed. you have thought the construction through and it's coming together well. Nice piece of ply?
Dave Wooley

[Victorious]

Hi Geoff I am really impressed. you have thought the construction through and it's coming together well. Nice piece of ply?
Dave Wooley

It's from an 8ft x 4ft sheet of Birch Ply, I bought when I started on Marlborough. Not much of it left now I have started doing the flight deck on the Vic.

[ARH]

Hi Geoff I am really impressed. you have thought the construction through and it's coming together well. Nice piece of ply?
Dave Wooley

It's from an 8ft x 4ft sheet of Birch Ply, I bought when I started on Marlborough. Not much of it left now I have started doing the flight deck on the Vic.

WHEN they first built the carrier at deans marine, they used a plastic deck, they had it at the MNM SHOW AT GRENWICH, it was a hot day, and the flight deck had four humps in it, due to the heat, after that Anthony stoped building his, ARH,

[Victorious]

It's from an 8ft x 4ft sheet of Birch Ply, I bought when I started on Marlborough. Not much of it left now I have started doing the flight deck on the Vic.

WHEN they first built the carrier at deans marine, they used a plastic deck, they had it at the MNM SHOW AT GRENWICH, it was a hot day, and the flight deck had four humps in it, due to the heat, after that Anthony stoped building his, ARH,

Thats why I'm using Ply, onece it's braced underneath as well, it will remain as flat as a Pancake.

[Dave Wooley]

Wise man . plastic in large areas and hot days just don't mix .
Dave Wooley

[nzmatt]

totally agree.here in my room the sun gets in even i have thick curtins up it can get up to 30 outside on a hot day here in aust i allways put evergreen glue that down to the balsa with ca glue then it cant come off

[Dave Rowe]

Hey Geoff, perhaps you could convert the Heller kit to one of the Vic's motor boats when you're done with it.

Great work BTW.

[Guest]

Hey Geoff, perhaps you could convert the Heller kit to one of the Vic's motor boats when you're done with it.

Great work BTW.

It look's very small against the big one. You may have noticed, that I have only roughly put the Heller kit together ( not showcase standard) but I only bought it to use as a reference. Obviously the plans I have are in 1/96 scale, but trying to work out how certain parts go together can be difficult unless you can read plans properly, so by using the Heller model as a 3 dimentional aid, you can how it goes together.

Must crack on with getting the flight deck parts cut out and then concentrate on the gallery deck framing. I may have another update later.

[Victorious]

I finally got all the Flight Deck peices done today. I spent most of the time making up the rear sloping deck. This had to be made from two peices of 1/16" ply, bonded together, after first steaming them, to get the curved shape. After steaming, the two peices were then stuck together with waterproof PVA, clamped an left to dry.

Whilst this was drying, I had to shape the top edge of the hull, to accommodate the curved piece of wood. The Illustrious Class Carrier's had quite a steep angle to the approach of the flight deck, and on the model, the rear edge is 1/2" lower than the level of the deck, which in 1 to 1 scale is 4 feet, so quite a sharp angle. It look's good on the model.

Once dry, the curve remains permanent, and fit'.s like a glove to the top edge of the hull.







When this had been glued to the hull, I mixed up some body filler, turned the hull over on to it's deck and then pasted the filler to the under edge of the overhang, at each side. Once this had set, it was sanded to shape and just needs some fine filling to finish off properly.









Enjoy Victorious