1/96 H.M.S. VICTORIOUS for R/C

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Thu Mar 09, 2006 6:28 pm

Hi Geoff, thats looking very good, looks a lot better in ply, and its amazing what you can do with that paste,

Victorious · Post by **Victorious** » Thu Mar 09, 2006 6:37 pm

ARH wrote:Hi Geoff, thats looking very good, looks a lot better in ply, and its amazing what you can do with that paste,

It's surprising how much goes to waste though, half of it gets sanded away, but it's quite light once set hard. I think the whole hull up to press including the flight deck, is about 12 lbs, not bad considering the size of it.

klein loewietje · Post by **klein loewietje** » Thu Mar 09, 2006 7:08 pm

Lookinggood, Victorious!!!
One question though, with the fixed deck aft, won't you have trouble installing the rudder(s)? later on? Or do you have enough manoeuvring space? I can't see it clearly, but I think you have, just wondering.
When will the Marlborough be back in #1 Drydock? You getting behind on the ID

Greetz, Johan

Victorious · Post by **Victorious** » Thu Mar 09, 2006 7:18 pm

klein loewietje wrote:Lookinggood, Victorious!!!
One question though, with the fixed deck aft, won't you have trouble installing the rudder(s)? later on? Or do you have enough manoeuvring space? I can't see it clearly, but I think you have, just wondering.
When will the Marlborough be back in #1 Drydock? You getting behind on the ID

Greetz, Johan

Yes Johan, there is amle room to access the rudder lingage. Under the flight deck is the removable quarterdeck which is two and a half inches below the flight deck. The top of the rudder post, will be about half an inch below the quarterdeck ( inside the Admiral's sleepng cabin on the real plan), so there is ample space. There is another deck above the quarterdeck, but this won't be put in, as it wouldn't be seen anyhow. just the port holes will be visible.

Marlborough will be back at the end of next week, when all the frame work has been done to the Vic.

Post by **Dave Wooley** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 5:32 am

These's a lot of opennings , how are you sealing these off? and are you going to do this before the flight deck is fixed? Qestion you mentioned that the island was made from GRP . Will you be using this or replacing it with your own . Just a thought ? You can be sure now that at least you will have a hull that will resist warping. Are you going to fit beams across the hull to support the flight deck or make a frame work part of the deck ?
Dave Wooley .

Victorious · Post by **Victorious** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 6:09 am

Dave Wooley wrote:These's a lot of opennings , how are you sealing these off? and are you going to do this before the flight deck is fixed? Qestion you mentioned that the island was made from GRP . Will you be using this or replacing it with your own . Just a thought ? You can be sure now that at least you will have a hull that will resist warping. Are you going to fit beams across the hull to support the flight deck or make a frame work part of the deck ?
Dave Wooley .

Regarding all the gallery deck openings, The decks for these will be bonded to the hull sides, between the frames and then the various short bulkheads bonded between the upper and lower decks of the gallery's.
The rear bulkhead's which will run lengthways, will be screwed to the rest of the box type frame, so if I need to access the individual openings, I can get at them from inside the hull. All this work will be done before work on the flight deck is finished.

The Island is a one peice grp moulding, but it does not actualy match the plan. One thing, it is 3 inches too long, the front is tapered too sharp, more to a point, instead of rounded and the various deck levels are not at the right height, in other words, completely useless. Deans made a hash of this, as well as certain parts on the hull it'self, but this can be remedied. The funnel moulding, I will be able to use, as this seems to be ok. So as far as the supertructure is concerned, I will be building it as per the plans., but not sure what material to use yet, more than likely plasticard.

I will be putting cross beams in between the hull sides, which will form supports for the various flight deck sections. Each section will also have a light framing added, so that it slots in between the top edge of the hull and the cross beams, and the flight deck section edges will have lips that interlock with the coresponding section, to keep them from lifting,whilst sailing. I will also be using small screws to anchor the deck at various places, hidden by deck furnishings, such as the arrester wire covers, which run along the edge of the rear deck section. I will think of something before I start worring about that stage.

Post by **Dave Wooley** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 6:29 am

Hi Geoff Thanks for the detailed explanation . Deck joints in carriers are a big problem either the edges lift or the joints are very conspicuous. There's no real answer except for the entire deck to be removable which has its own problems. That's the price that has to be paid when building working models, somewere there has to be a joint ?I've been mulling over this problem for ages and I'm not convinced by the idea of lifting the whole deck off . but on the other hand I'm also little tetchy on the joints in the deck but there seems no allternative!
Dave Wooley

Andy G · Post by **Andy G** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 9:21 am

Hi Dave,

I suppose the answers are:

1/ Minimal - just allow access through the lifts and under the island, though that provides its own problems.

2/ Extensive - split the hull at the waterline, and build the lower hull with an internal waterproof lip as high as possible to allow complete access to the hull and contents, leaving the top half of the hull as a single unit.

In many ways - apart from the ease of construction - option 2 would sell itself to many of our projects; and while I considered it for my Dreadnought, I'm going to have removable turrets and superstructure, allowing me at least fist-sized access into the bowels of the boat from all over the place, once it's made.

Andy G

Post by **Dave Wooley** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 10:05 am

Hi Andy G Good point I've seen this method used . I think for non carrier warships then the problem is less accute, as you quite rightly say you can remove the area around the superstructure and the barbettes as with Ron's Iron Duke and North Carolina . But just to allow access into the hull of a carrier through the area of the island would be just to restrictive . I've looked at this and relegated it to the choice of very last resort. At this stage Geoff has made the only practical choice there is but I'll keep mulling over the problem?
Dave Wooley

Andy G · Post by **Andy G** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 10:51 am

A quick guess of the Victorious' lifts at 1/96th scale would suggest they're about 7" by 4.5" in length/width dimensions. Is that about right, Geoff? If you're not Arnie Schwarznegger that's plenty big enough to get an entire arm in.

The rear lift isn't badly placed for tweaking and fixing the rudders, propshafts and motors, while the front one could get you to the batteries, radio gear and the like. But it would require more upfront planning than I'd be happy with!

Andy G

Victorious · Post by **Victorious** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 11:10 am

In my opinion, splitting the hull is not such a good idea on a model this long, as it would create more of a problem, keeping everything square, so to speak and unless it was a perfect watertight seal, all the way round the hull, it would allow water to enter.

I think by making the flight deck into three removable sections is the best option and if properly braced underneath, it should alleviate any twisting or concerns where the deck sections join, providing that good interlocking peices are incorporated.

The front and rear removable sections, could actually be screwed down ( thus making them semi fixed) and the middle section which would be accessed more often, for battery changing, could be made to fit, whithout the need for screws, so that it could be quickly lifted off at the waterside, if need be.

There are enough places on the deck, that could diguise any locking catches, to lip under the screwed down removable sections. which would only be needed to be removed to access the motors, speed controllers, rudder linkage, other accessories etc; and any ballast placed forward or aft.
I intend my main centre section to have the Island fastened down to it, so that the whole section comes off as one assembly to allow maximum access. This is the area where I will be placing the main batteries ( possibly a car battery or two motorcycle batterries) which should give very long running times, especially if just cruising using the centre prop only.

I have given this area, much thought and think that this is the best option so far.

Victorious · Post by **Victorious** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 1:49 pm

Andy G wrote:A quick guess of the Victorious' lifts at 1/96th scale would suggest they're about 7" by 4.5" in length/width dimensions. Is that about right, Geoff? If you're not Arnie Schwarznegger that's plenty big enough to get an entire arm in.

The rear lift isn't badly placed for tweaking and fixing the rudders, propshafts and motors, while the front one could get you to the batteries, radio gear and the like. But it would require more upfront planning than I'd be happy with!

Andy G

The lift openings are a bit smaller than that, I'll measure them later, but whatever, you try getting a large battery into the hull, without have plenty of manouvering space. Then there is a question of ballast, which will probably require the equivalent of about three or four house bricks, which need spreading about to even the trim.
No, I still reckon my method is the best option for a sailing model. I'ts not going to have to be exhibition standard, wher things such as joins need to be as inconspicuous as possible.

Victorious · Post by **Victorious** » Sat Mar 11, 2006 6:02 am

The lift dimensions are Five and a half inches by two and three quarter inches, thats from the flight deck plans in 1/96 ( 1/8" to 1 foot scale).

Work continues today.

Victorious · Post by **Victorious** » Sat Mar 11, 2006 5:55 pm

Just a short update. I have been putting in the flight deck support beams which have been glued and screwed to the ships side. The srews are countersunk into the hull and will be covered over with filler eventually, so that they don't show. I also added some filler paste to the frames and screwed these to the hull sides as well, just to make sure that they don't come adrift.

Once these had been done, I decided to modify the front 4.5 gun sponsons. First the top edge of the moulding was cut away, and a new platform was put in place, which was made to the right width, per the plans. I then made new bulkheads around the inner edge and cut the front section of the flight deck to fit. I the last photo, you can see where the moulding has been removed. The opening at the front, has yet to have the bulkhed put in which contains a door.

Work on the starboard side will continue tomorrow.

Enjoy

Victorious

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Sat Mar 11, 2006 6:09 pm

Hi Looking forward to it,

ARH

psships · Post by **psships** » Sat Mar 11, 2006 6:16 pm

Awesome Geoff, don't forget to lattice the supports mate.

Post by **Dave Wooley** » Sat Mar 11, 2006 7:12 pm

Hi Geoff Shaping up well . Thanks for the progress reports and I'm looking forward to the 2nd and a chance to see Victorious for real.
Dave Wooley

Victorious · Post by **Victorious** » Sat Mar 11, 2006 7:15 pm

Dave Wooley wrote:Hi Geoff Shaping up well . Thanks for the progress reports and I'm looking forward to the 2nd and a chance to see Victorious for real.
Dave Wooley

Just another week on it Dave, then I will get back to doing marlborough, as I want to get it something like for our event on July 2nd. Hope your still coming?

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Sat Mar 11, 2006 7:16 pm

Its a good job he is only picking the motors up on the 2nd, or else it would be sailing.

Post by **Dave Wooley** » Sat Mar 11, 2006 7:24 pm

Ron SEND HIM THE MOTORS so he can sail on the 2nd.
Dave Wooley