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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 4:29 pm 
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very very impressive machine work, the results are stunningly sharp.

Hut ab! :big_grin:

JIM B :wave_1:

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 11:50 pm 
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Thanks, Jim.

Actually, my interpretation of the internal structure of the smoke stack caused quite a bit of discussion on the forum of the 'Arbeitskreis historischer Schiffbau', where there are many 'experts' on the German navy of that time. The four smoke pipes are indeed rather small in diameter, which seems strange, but then the boilers were small and the machines did not have a lot of HP. However, so far there has been no other conclusive interpretation of the four rings seen in the cross-section of all surviving drawings. Unfortunately, there is no surviving drawing that shows the whole smoke stack. I'll probably leave it as it is at the moment.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2018 4:56 pm 
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It has been again several months since I wrote something here. However, don’t think that nothing has happened since.

After the funnel I turned my attention to the lower carriage of the 30,5 cm-gun. This is a complex assembly of steel plates connected by L-beams and held together with rivets. Some years ago a detailed Imperial Admiralty plan appeared on the Internet:

http://www.dreadnoughtproject.org/plans/SM_Wespe_1894//305mm_laffete_100dpi.jpg (image too large)
Quelle: http://www.dreadnoughtproject.org

Together with the description in a contemporary textbook (GALSTER, 1885) these drawings formed the basis of some reverse engineering. A problem with the above drawings is that many parts are drawing onto each other, semi-transparent and with dashed lines. Sorting out this maze into its three-dimensional element was not easy and some part will remain a matter of interpretation.

I had hoped to get away without etched parts. Trials with embossed styrene-sheet to simulate the rivetting, however, were not very successful. The embossing distorted the miniscule parts. The rivetting is very prominent and can be seen on a large demonstration model in the Naval Museum in Copenhagen or on some russian-kloned Krupp-carriages in the Suomenlinna fortress off Helsinki. The rivetting can be much more precisely rendered with etching and one avoids the added difficulty of having to cut out minute parts.

To begin with the frame of the carriage with sides and ribs from sheet-steel was designed. The L-shaped reinforcement profiles including their rivetting was then drawn. Next in the line was the housing of the training mechanism. I will not fully build this mechanism as it will not really be visible on the finished model. It will be only made in its rough shape that is needed to support the various axles and rods that will be visible. Also designed were the various parts of the hydraulic recoil mechanism and its linkage to the upper gun-carriage. Various other small parts, such as the housings for the sprung buffers that limit the movement of the upper carriage, were designed as etched parts to be folded.

The lower carriage runs on four wheels that are guided by rails that have been turned on the lathe already a long time ago. These ‘castors’ are attached to the underside of the carriage by housings of sheet-metal that have no right angle in them and are set at an oblique angle to the carriage. These parts were developed from the various projections in the drawing above and then checked by printing them as large paper parts.

A lot of work were also the many operating platforms resting on consoles fabricated from L-profiles. Unfortunately, the exact shape and position of the consoles cannot de deducted from the above drawings for all of them. The model in Copenhagen and the originals in Suomenlinna have lower carriages that differ in detail. I will provide two alternatives for the grilles made from wire mesh on the etched fret. The more elaborate version will consist of etched and folded frames with inlays of a very fine steel wire-mesh. If it does not work to cut the wire-mesh to size – some of the platforms are onyl 1.6 mm wide – I will have solid platforms into which a mesh-like structure is etched as fall-back option.

Image
Elements (operating platforms) for etched fret

Also the charging-crane will be built up from several layers of etched part – to get the necessary thickness – and turned parts. The same approach was taken for several other small parts that would be difficult to machine or work on by hand due to their small size, while still requiring a precise geometry.
I still have to design a host of other parts that have to go onto the etched fret in order to make it worthwhile to be given outside for having the mask and the etching done professionally.

To be continued soon ...

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 2:18 am 
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impressive...
For the thicker parts, there are some companies that lasercut in styrene, so you could achieve a base thickness like that. then only the reïnforcement beams are in brassplate

I have no idea about the diameter of the rivets, but a friend of mine builds in 1/72 and smaller, and for rivets he uses the inside of an anti-calc cartridge for ironing:

Image

this are small balls, you can sort these at diameter, make a small recess and fix them preliminary with extra thin cement and a bit of clear or CA to fix these permanently...

Just an idea...


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 4:04 am 
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Thanks for those ideas. I try to avoid farming out work, though in the case of the etching I may have to do it.

The combination of styrene and metal is always problematic, particularly when there are bending forces on the joint. Sticking small PE parts onto styrene is not likely to cause problems, but having unsuported cantilevers and consoles in brass stuck to styrene is likely to cause problems in the future, due to failing glue joints. I prefer to etch slots into the parts for addittional support of glued joints.

The rivet heads will be around 0.2 mm diameter. In order to use these spheres of ion-echange resin (this is what is in these cartridges) would mean to make holes of that diameter - one is ok, but many at equal distance is a similar challenge as embossing them. Not sure also about the long-term stability of these resins. May investigate though, there could be other application for these spheres.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 4:14 am 
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There's not (hex) punch & die set that comes close to 0.2mm; even etching them separately and then adding them is going to be awful (barely possible even). If the rivets are round, then it's fairly easy to drill in, insert wire, and sand down to size using a spacer plate. I'm currently designing some heavily rivetted beams in photoetch and I'm going to have the rivets etched on a flat surface; slightly easier and all-brass construction.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 5:08 am 
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It is going to be that, leaving the rivets standing on a flat surface. Here is what I did for the upper carriage (the squares on the mat are 10 mm x 10 mm):

Image

The frame is made up from a sawn-out filler and etched facing parts with register slots for the cross-members:

Image

The lower carriage is much more complex.

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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2019 6:41 am 
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After weeks and months of drawing parts to be etched, I felt the need to apply my hands to something else than the keyboard. Also, I accumulated lots of little parts that at some stage need to go together. A step that I have been procrastinating, thinking that certain manipulations are easier to do, when everything is in pieces. When building a ship from scratch, deciding on the sequence of assembly can be crucial.

So, the first step was to glue on the main deck, which had already been prepared a long time ago from a piece of bakelite. The holes for the various fittings where marked out over a drawing and then drilled. The translucent property of the bakelite is very helpful for marking out. Once glued on, the deck was carefully sanded to the contour of the hull.
I spent a lot of time deliberating the best way to make the plating of the hull and the bulwark. The shape is quite simple, as the sides are vertical from just below the waterline (probably to facilitate the production of the armour plating that needed to be curved in only one direction). The original idea was to cut the plating in one piece from brass shim stock. This would have resulted in near scale thickness of the bulwark plating. I considered this too flimsy, even if the handrail was soldered on. Another option would have been to use 0.13 mm styrene sheet. Again I considered it too soft. Bakelite sheet of 0.1 mm thickness would have been closer to scale, but rather brittle. For practical reasons I decided to use 0.2 mm bakelite sheet.

The layout of the freeing ports, the location of stanchions, the ash chutes, toilet drain pipes, and port-holes were drawn onto an expansion of the bulwark that was developed from the original drawings. The drawing then was laser-printed onto an overhead projection foil (remeber these ?). This foil was taped to a piece of bakelite sheet and the drawing ironed onto it, using what is called the toner-transfer method.

Image
Bakelite sheet for the hull plating with layout by the toner-transfer method

The plating was cemented to the MDF hull using cyanoacrylate glue (CA). I am not very fond of CA glue, but it forms secure bonds with bakelite.

Image
Hull plating attached

On the prototype, the bulwark plating was attached to the hull by an angle iron (8 cm x 8 cm) running along the top of the hull. I simulated the vertical part with a 0.5 mm wide strip of self-adhesive aluminium sheet into which a row of rivets had been embossed. The horizontal part would disappear under a thick layer of tar-based paint that was mixed with sand and onto which sand was dusted to provide a non-slip deck.

To be continued soon ...

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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2019 1:30 am 
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wefalk,

I had forgotten about the toner transfer idea! Thanks for reminding us. It is a great way to transfer lines onto a sheet where you need to drill holes (air ports), cut windows, attach parts, etc.

I haven't tried it with my newest laser printer. I do recall that I got best results if I tell the printer to use the "highest quality" (most toner) prints. It also worked well with some photo copier prints.

Also, the only time I have seen it used was with black laser prints. Wonder if it works as well with the color toners?

Phil

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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2019 4:34 am 
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I had been contemplating to create with this method 'photorealistic' decks on stuff that is too thick or too stiff to feed through a laster-printer. They make special transfer foils for fabrics and china-ware for this purpose. Unfortunately, I don't have a colour laser-printer or access to one, so I didn't follow this lead.

Toner, after all, are just plastic particles with pigment particles embedded, so you can melt it onto any surface that withstand the temperatures needed.

I found that the lines turn out to be a bit blurred and smeared. Perhaps, when using a hot-laminating press and the special transfer foils the result is better. For marking out the result was good enough, using the overhead foils (of which I had plenty in stock still) and an ironing iron set to the hottest temperature. I put several layers of newspaper underneath and on top to distribute the pressure.

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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2019 3:20 pm 
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And a little speed update: the hawse pipes were made from some 2 mm x 0.5 mm brass tube. First the angle with the hull was cut and then an oval ring from 0.4 mm copper wire was soldered onto this surface. The part was then taken into a collet on the watchmakers lathe and drilled out to 1.7 mm ID. Finally, the funnel shape was formed with diamond burrs and polished with silicone burrs. The hawse-pioe then was cemented in place and the end above the deck ground down in situ flush with the deck. The cover on deck is an etched part I made already several years ago. It was cemented on using CA and then another funnel was shaped with diamond and silicone burrs.

Image
Hawse pipes ready to go on board

Image
Hawse pipes installed, but still some cleaning up needed


To be continued soon ...

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Last edited by wefalck on Fri May 24, 2019 1:12 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2019 5:13 pm 
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good to see progress !!

alas I was unable to see the images in the latest update

maybe upload again?

regards
JB

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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2019 1:15 am 
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Linked them as https, as this is required in some other fora ... changed now

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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2019 3:24 am 
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Again, small increments of progress. At the bows the fairleads for mooring hawser etc. were installed. These were milled and filed from 0.8 mm thick sheet of Plexiglas®.

Image
Fairleads installed at the bows

Then the rails on the bulwark in the rear part of the ship were installed. The rail also serves as a rubbing strake and continues to the anchor-pocket at the bows. At first the bulwark and rail (0.4 mm x 1.7 mm on the model) caused some head-scratching and concerns for the stability of the arrangement. I though about cutting a longitudinal slot into some rectangular styrne, but finally decided to make it in two, with the half glued inside and outside to the bulwark that have been designed higher for the purpose. In this way a 0.4 mm x 0.7 mm styrene strip could be glued all the way to the outside of the hull. A similar strip was glued to the inside. The half-round profile was shaped using a scraper made from a piece of razor-blade and held in pin-vice. The profile was shaped after attaching it to the hull, because it was easier to clamp the rectangular styrene strip while glueing. The glueing was effected by infiltrating CA into the joint between the styrene strip and the bakelite bulwark.

Image
Scraper used to shape the rails

Image
Rails cum rubbing strip installed around the ship

Arrangements varied somewhat between the different boats of the WESPE-class, but there was a WC for the officers in the deckshouse on the starbord side and a WC and pissoir for the men and petty officers on the port side. Each had a half-round evacuation pipe rivetted to the outside of the hull. The pipes were protected against damage by a wooden fender. After a few years of service, a strong wale/rubbing strake was added to the boats that also widened to a kind of sponson at the stern to protect the screws. However, this did not exist at the time in which the model is represented.

Image
Evacuation pipes for the toilets protected by fenders

To be continued soon ...

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PostPosted: Fri May 31, 2019 9:34 am 
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Very impressive... as usual : the real quality shows whan you can't really tell the scale with the photos, such is the precision.

In your case it could be as well 1:72 or 1:48 than... 1:160 !

very inspiring, thanks !


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2019 3:38 pm 
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Thank you :jump_1:

**********************

There are two jacob-ladders on each side of the hull, a wider one underneath a door in the bulwark and a narrower one a bit forward. The steps probably were made from wood and had slots towards the hull to prevent the water from collecting there and to prevent the wood from rotting.

Image
Milling of the steps for the jacobs-ladders

The steps are made from 0.8 mm thick Plexiglas® and the slots milled in. The sheet then was sanded down to the width of the steps and the ends rounded. Then individual steps of the right thickness were cut off on the lathe set-up with a mini saw-table.

Image
Steps ready for fitting

Unfortunately, the steps could only be cemented to the hull using cyanoacrylate glue, there being no positive locking. A bit of cellotape provided a guide for alignment. Nevertheless, the procedure was a bit nerve-racking.

Image
Jacob-ladder on port

Image
Jacob-ladder on starbord

Further, fairleads for the aft mooring hawser were installed. These were made from oval rings of copper-wire. The rings were formed over two 1 mm-drills taped together, cut off and closed by silver-soldering. The rings were sanded down to half their thickness and one each of these rings cemented to the inside and outside of the hull. The hole was drilled out and filed to shape.

Image
Fairlead for aft mooring hawsers

To be continued soon ...

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 7:46 am 
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For some inexplicable reason I did not notice this work in progress; excellent results!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2019 3:05 pm 
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A belated Thank You !

***********************

After many trials and tribulations I completed the awnings over the hatch that leads down into the the deckshouse. Such hatches were protected by railings made from polished brass tubes with connectors cast in brass. The railings had sockets into which arched awning stanchions could be fitted. The hole arrangement could be dismantled in order to be able to cover the hatches in very bad weather. The old photograph shows a similar arrangement on an austro-hungarian warship of the same period. The contemporary drawings of SMS WESPE show such quite complex hatch-cover.

Image
Hatch and its cover on board of an austro-hungarian warship of about the same period

I first attempted to turn the stanchions from brass wire or small brass nails, but both materials turned out to be too soft given that they are 5 mm long with a diameter of only 0.3 mm. Even my sophisticated steadies didn’t work. In the end I had to fabricate them from 0.3 mm with 0,5 mm sections of 0.5 diameter brass tube slipped over them. The upper connectors were cross-drilled in the dividing head on my micro-mill for the 0.2 mm horizontals. I also attempted to turn 0.7 mm diameter knobs to fit onto the stanchions using a specially made cutting bit. While they turned out reasonably well, it proved impossible to fit them – I lost them faster than I could make new ones ... the knobs are simulated by tiny blobs of of white glue, painted in brass. Acceptable at normal viewing distance, but pretty awful in close-up photography.
Attempts to provide the stanchions with sockets for the awning-stanchions failed and I simplified the construction by just making a wire-loop at the end, that slips over the stanchions before the knobs were made. The knob in the centre was turned and cross-drilled.
The hatch-coaming was fabricated from two layers of bakelite so that it would rest on the deck. The corners were drilled 0.3 mm for the stanchions.
Assembly proved a major challenge for my patience and took me several evenings. Luckily, SMS WESPE has only one such hatch cover. The whole structure was assembled using lacquer. It would have been better to solder it, but I wanted to keep the polished brass appearance – nothing looks more like metal, well, then metal ! Nevertheless, I have some very good metallic paint made by a Czech company (http://www.agama-color.cz/en/products/colours) that was used on the knobs.

Image
The model representation. The hatch is 7 mm x 11 mm – close-up photographs are unforgiving

To be continued soon(?) ...

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2019 10:53 pm 
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wefalck,

Excellent work! I have enjoyed following this build.

You are quite right about macro photos being very unforgiving. After doing my best work I am sometimes humbled by the nasty details high resolution macro photos reveal.

Your work is very clean!

Phil

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2019 3:48 pm 
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Thanks, DrPR !

****************

Engine-Room Telegraphs

On the ‘official’ lithograph of SMS WESPE from the early 1880s an unsual form of engine-room telegraph was drawn. It has a horizontal dial. In the earliest known photography of the ship during fitting-out, the telegraphs had not yet been installed.
A short while ago I discovered during a visit to Oslo in the Norsk Maritimt Museum a very similar telegraph on display. Unfortunately, the legend is not readable on my image. I seem to remember that the inventor or patentee was named. A search on the Internet and in my library did not produce anything, so I would be grateful, if anyone has an idea, who the inventor or patentee might have been.

Image
Horizontal engine-room telegraph in the Norsk Maritimt Museum, Oslo

The telegraph was redrawn from the lithography in order to serve as a working drawing with measures to guide the lathe operation.

Image
The original lithography and working drawing

The whole telegraph seems to have been made from brass and accordingly the model was turned from brass. The indicator arm and follower were made from flattened brass wire and the ‘wooden’ handle built up from PVA glue.

Image
The two engine-room telegraphs at their place

SMS WESPE had two telegraphs, one for the starbord and port engine each, of this early twin-screw naval vessel.

To be continued soon(?) ...

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Last edited by wefalck on Sun Oct 06, 2019 3:17 am, edited 1 time in total.

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