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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2019 1:32 pm 
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Have a question about the aerial and crane tower in 1945.

In American photos of the mission this crane tower is absent and I have heard it speculated that the tower was removed to increase the arc of the AA on the stern. If this was such a design flaw then why did they wait 3 years to remove it? That long aerial was vital for coms to my understanding. It doesn't seem like something you would sacrifice idly when your crew has been trained to compensate for it.

My theory is that Kure removed it to salvage the metal to get other systems in working order. Contrary to the long belief that Yamato was sent on a suicide mission, I have read that the engineers did everything they could to get the ship in top condition. Even read that the quartermaster that was ordered to only fill the Yamato with enough fuel for a one way trip, topped it off because he didn't agree with the orders.

Still an odd thing to sacrifice though.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2019 2:35 pm 
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EpsilonZer0 wrote:
Have a question about the aerial and crane tower in 1945.

In American photos of the mission this crane tower is absent and I have heard it speculated that the tower was removed to increase the arc of the AA on the stern. If this was such a design flaw then why did they wait 3 years to remove it? That long aerial was vital for coms to my understanding. It doesn't seem like something you would sacrifice idly when your crew has been trained to compensate for it.

My theory is that Kure removed it to salvage the metal to get other systems in working order. Contrary to the long belief that Yamato was sent on a suicide mission, I have read that the engineers did everything they could to get the ship in top condition. Even read that the quartermaster that was ordered to only fill the Yamato with enough fuel for a one way trip, topped it off because he didn't agree with the orders.

Still an odd thing to sacrifice though.

The Emperor wanted to know what the navy was doing to stop America. The army and air forces were fighting but the navy wasn't. So the admirals sacrificed Yamato.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2019 5:03 pm 
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For Big Y as lost, we're talking overall Kure grey with black funnel top & mast right?

I've gone through tons of past posts and see conflicting info on decks though. What's the latest consensus (assuming there is one) on decks? Was the flight deck unpainted concrete, some different non-slip coating, or was it painted the same color as rest of ship? I see the linoleum strip areas as being sometimes linoleum brown and sometimes grey...what's up with that? Lastly, any updates on the wooden decks - unpainted but greyed wood or stained (rather re-stained) with soot/oil/stain? I'm assuming this last one is still a point of contention. The decks look dark in the last photos, but they could just be wet of course. I see white markings at various stations as well. Can anyone shed any light on number and locations?

Any appreciation is much appreciated. You see, this is a one-off and I really would like to avoid buying a book or books that will sit unused (I must save my shelf space for my dear 7Bs/Hood of course!). Many thanks in advance!

Frank

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2019 9:19 am 
Hello,

Does the New Yamato Super Detail-up DX Pack worth it for the "Premium" Tamiya Yamato ?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2019 10:21 am 
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Do you mean the new-tool 1/350 kit? I can't find any Tamiya Yamato kit that's officially marketed as "premium" (except for a 2011 1/700 kit that's premium only because of the boxart), so it's somewhat confusing as to which kit you're referring.

In any case, the 1/350 kit(s) do not come with a full set of PE and brass parts, so if you want those details, yes, it is worth it to get some aftermarket options.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2019 11:29 am 
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dul wrote:
Hello,

Does the New Yamato Super Detail-up DX Pack worth it for the "Premium" Tamiya Yamato ?


I assume you are talking about the Mk1 kit. It is made the for the Tamiya "Premium" Yamato 78025 only.
But honestly it is inferior to the Pontos "Advanced" PE kit and the Lion Roar. Both of those kits offer much more and also do some things better than the other that I have seen some hardcore rivet counters mix the two. The Mk1 is also priced too high for what you get and the instructions are no better than Pontos.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2019 4:03 am 
EpsilonZer0 wrote:
I assume you are talking about the Mk1 kit. It is made the for the Tamiya "Premium" Yamato 78025 only.
But honestly it is inferior to the Pontos "Advanced" PE kit and the Lion Roar. Both of those kits offer much more and also do some things better than the other that I have seen some hardcore rivet counters mix the two. The Mk1 is also priced too high for what you get and the instructions are no better than Pontos.


Yep, it was about the Mk1 kit. Thanks for your answer, I'll see the Pontos and Lion !


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2019 12:22 pm 
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FW_Allen wrote:
For Big Y as lost, we're talking overall Kure grey with black funnel top & mast right?

I've gone through tons of past posts and see conflicting info on decks though. What's the latest consensus (assuming there is one) on decks? Was the flight deck unpainted concrete, some different non-slip coating, or was it painted the same color as rest of ship? I see the linoleum strip areas as being sometimes linoleum brown and sometimes grey...what's up with that? Lastly, any updates on the wooden decks - unpainted but greyed wood or stained (rather re-stained) with soot/oil/stain? I'm assuming this last one is still a point of contention. The decks look dark in the last photos, but they could just be wet of course. I see white markings at various stations as well. Can anyone shed any light on number and locations?


Does anyone have any info on this?

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2019 12:55 pm 
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FW_Allen wrote:
FW_Allen wrote:
For Big Y as lost, we're talking overall Kure grey with black funnel top & mast right?

I've gone through tons of past posts and see conflicting info on decks though. What's the latest consensus (assuming there is one) on decks? Was the flight deck unpainted concrete, some different non-slip coating, or was it painted the same color as rest of ship? I see the linoleum strip areas as being sometimes linoleum brown and sometimes grey...what's up with that? Lastly, any updates on the wooden decks - unpainted but greyed wood or stained (rather re-stained) with soot/oil/stain? I'm assuming this last one is still a point of contention. The decks look dark in the last photos, but they could just be wet of course. I see white markings at various stations as well. Can anyone shed any light on number and locations?


Does anyone have any info on this?



Not sure about the concrete deck - But every Japanese reconstruction I've seen has them painted gray.

For the wood decks - despite the sometimes conflicting 'theories' and posts - I have as close to definitive information as we can ever find (as I always post when this comes up), to wit:

Mitsuru Yoshida (writing in 1946) states plainly in "Requiem for Battleship Yamato" that her decks were painted "JET BLACK" for the final mission. Later on in the book he comments on the grotesque appearance of her decks after repeated bombs and bullets had torn the decks apart exposing the wood.

So the wood decks should be painted black. The concrete should be (presumably) the same gray as the hull color. Can't go wrong with those choices. :thumbs_up_1:

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2019 1:51 pm 
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He also said the water was jet black. Why hasn't anyone else said they were painted black in 1945? I would need verification before I painted it black. A wet graying deck could look black at an angle.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2019 3:24 pm 
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Senkan wrote:
He also said the water was jet black. Why hasn't anyone else said they were painted black in 1945? I would need verification before I painted it black. A wet graying deck could look black at an angle.


As with all modelers, what shade you use is up to you. When I built my Nichimo custom Yamato way back in 2007, I painted the decks wood color - which they presumably WERE - until they were painted (or smudged?) some shade of black for the final mission....

As far as the water looking black, well, it was an overcast day in the middle of the ocean. I'd say it was probably a good description ... especially when the survivors were bobbing up and down covered in thick oil ....

... anyway, its your choice ... there's no right or wrong answer ... :cool_2:

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2019 3:52 pm 
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Thank you gentlemen. This information definitely helps!

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 2:46 pm 
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For what it is worth (not much, really) there are some photos of Yamato's final mission where the wooden decks look a bit darker than the non-wood decks, and some photos where the wooden decks look a bit lighter. However, I have seen some photos where the black on the funnel is clearly darker than the wooden deck, so for that reason my opinion is that decks were not black black, but maybe just darkened. Of course, photos can always be deceptive...


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 7:32 pm 
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I dislike Lion Roar AA guns because they are all flat PE. Even the barrel are edged out of flat copper sheet. When assembled they look like something out of miniature pop up book.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 10:06 pm 
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I wonder if Yamato and Musashi had the same amount of fans or if it was an error in shipbuilding....

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2019 11:04 am 
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I like posts that correct flaws in kits. :heh:

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 04, 2019 1:53 pm 
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This is really interesting. Thank you for posting! Still new things to discover on these ships. (And with every one of these discoveries my own 1/200 custom Nichimo becomes more inaccurate :frown_2: )

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2019 3:26 pm 
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Wow. So much information. Thank you!

So ... fellas .... it means that you can paint the 1945 Yamato deck either tan, gray or black ... and you won't be wrong - because the final answer is uncertain .... (I feel better now about painting mine wood color on my Nichimo!)

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2019 4:39 pm 
It seems all my post were gone, maybe due to database crash...Even my account as well.. Owner and Founder Timothy Dike helped to approve my account again..thank you so much. I will re-post again from the beginning..

Greetings All, Razif here from Malaysia. :wave_1: Been building/collecting Perfect/Master Grade Gunpla...

Now I am planning to start model ship building and would like to challenge me self by getting the 1/350 Tamiya 78025 kit.
Knowing there's a lot of modellers out there been building this kit since it came out. One thing I notice that this was one of those ships the blueprint/pictures were mostly destroyed and Tamiya (Other Brands also) been updating since, and based on the 1999 exploration, ex crew and etc. It was said at that time (2012) 78025 was the most accurate version of Battle for Okinawa.
I didn't start building the kit yet, But started doing some research of the ship it self for a month now, Multiple forums (including here)/Bloggers/youtube/ and Final ship configuration done by modellers.
As Yamato and Musashi data were lost due to war, I felt that the correct configuration guide of list was not available in one place with a lot of questions need answering.

I hope by doing this may help me and those who want to build the Yamato 78025 kit as accurate as possible.
Lets start with Part 1. Any comments are welcome.

Part 1
Materials- The goodies

1. The kit, Tamiya 1/350 Yamato 78025.
2. Lion Roar PE set RS3511, A lot of it will be used here.
3. Optional for me..Pontos PE set 35003F1, as Jap modelers tend to only use the mast, pole, shielded triple AA and open 12.7 guns. More on this later.
4. Tamiya wooden deck 12645.
5. Genuine model Sandbag & wooden scaffolding Set GM35011.
6. Genuine model Ventilation fans GM3509.
7. Genuine model Bulwark set GM3510.
8. Genuine model IJN ammunition box set GM3505R.
9. Genuine model IJN equipment set for large ship GM3501.
10. Rigging, Modelkasten No.0.3... 0.10mm 5m.
11. Tamiya Hand Rail set A..if one feels the urge for drilling & poking a lot of holes... :big_grin: . Does give a better effect than those fix handrails.

Accessories detail up parts..Optional.
12. Genuine model General purpose deck equipment GNM3513R.
13. Genuine model General Purpose Bridge Equipment Set GNM3514
14. Genuine model Life Buoy Set GNM3507R
15. Genuine model Large Ship First Aid Set (Rudder) GNM3519
16. Genuine model Large Ship Mooring Girder Set GNM3516
17. Genuine model Large Ship Gangway Ladder GNM3515

Whats Genuine model - https://fleetnet.jp/index.php?subcats=Y ... d8dd6ab8d1


Addons-
Just in case those PE AA guns are hard to do for new comers but prefer more details than the kit AA guns.
1. Fine molds Nano Dread WZ4. 1 box
2. Fine molds Nano Dread WZ5. 1 box
3. Fine molds Nano Dread WZ7. 4 boxes

etc..
4. Tamiya Pla plates 0.2mm & 0.3mm
5. Wave 3mm Brass tube
6. Extra IJN Doors, Binoculars, ladders..etc

Books,
1. Tamiya 1/350 Japanese Battleship Yamato Plastic Model Production Guidebook. Search >>(タミヤ 1/350日本戦艦大和製作プラモデル製作ガイドブック (書籍))
2. Model Art Super Illustration Yamato. 2008.

Thnks.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2019 1:23 am 
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Greetings All, Seems my above post was under "Guest" :big_grin: My bad.

Part 2
Unshielded triple 25 AA Guns- size matters..

Image
Pontos model is on left and Lion Roar right.
Pontos model is a method in which the kit parts are processed and etched parts are added.
Pontos shavings and barrels are attractive, but the overall sense of precision is likely to rise towards Lion Roar. :big_grin:

Image
If the 25mm machine gun is 1/350, the width would be about 0.4mm.

Image
The kit parts are about 0.7mm, and the lion roar is about 0.2mm..adding surfacer, colour and clear topcoat some weathering would get it to 0.4mm.

Credit goes to Japanese modeler and blogger.

Thnks


Part 3
High angle shielded guns- handrails to add or not..

Image
The photo above shows Musashi's shielded high-angle gun. (The above is "Japanese Naval Ship Photo Book Bespoke Battleship Yamato / Musashi Diamond Company" P.65, and the bottom is P.88) There is a fixed handrail on the front of the shield.

Image
These pictures are Yamato's shielded high-angle cannons from the top in September 1965 (from "Japanese Naval Ship Photo Collection Bespoke Battleship Yamato / Musashi Diamond Company" P.8.), Showa 17 ("Historical Group: Pacific War History Series") No.20 “Yamato Battleship 2 Gakken” (p.38)), January 1945 (from “Japanese Naval Ship Photo Collection Bespoke Battleship Yamato / Musashi Diamond Company” p.101).
There is no handrail on the front of the shield in either photo.

Image
This is a captured image from the DVD “Battleship Yamato: All of Glory and Legends Sleeping in the Deep Sea” released by Bop Inc.
At the time of the seafloor exploration of Yamato in 1999, the top is a 12.7cm high angle gun shield.
After all, there is no handrail.
The possibility that only the handrail has decayed is unlikely because the handrail on the rear side of the lower secondary gun remains.
(The secondary gun is upside down, so the top is the floor.)

Credit goes to Japanese modeler and blogger.

Thnks.

More to come..


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