Chuck wrote:
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1. The real I-Beam stanchions are actually quite thick and beefy. On the real ship the outboard face of the stanchions are nearly at the deck edge, while the inboard face of the stanchions are aligned with the inboard face of the chocks. In other works the stanchions are nearly as thick as the chocks. Folded PE stanchions provided by Pontos and Eduard are still too thin, unless you use two PE stanchions glued back to back for each stanchion. Otherwise either the outboard dace of the stanchions are too far inboard, or the railings can not align with the backs of the chocks.
Here is a photo of BB-64 (museum) which shows the larger collapsible stanchion and its relative position in the waterway:
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BB64 Deck Stanchion Detail.jpg [ 258.58 KiB | Viewed 4529 times ]
If it were feasible to have 3D printed stanchions provided, that would be the ultimate way to go. However, using the Pontos brass PE stanchions in place of the kit version will not really improve how these fit or look (Pontos is what I ended up using). This is a crap shoot and you probably won't like the odds or results.
As for the chocks, I used the kit supplied augmented with the Pontos brass posts and put them where the deck was stamped for them to go. I also used a custom ordered Pontos teak deck set (which I had collaborated with them in order to produce) and made no changes to the chock location as it was originally designed for use with the kit plastic main deck. A judgement call, I guess; something you have to really wonder if it's worth messing with in the overall scheme of things.
If I were to be working on the 1:200 kit now, YES! I would try to find someone to make 3D correctly shaped and printed stanchions. Chock locations and custom designed chocks? Don't know about that one!
Hope this helps,
Hank