1/700 Taiho (??) 1944 - Fujimi

[Dan K]

Well, I did some touchups of the hull red at 12psi, which was fine. I�m sure I�ll play with air pressure as time goes on.

The flight deck and hull have been mated together, and the last of the deck edge treading glued in place. The mating wasn�t without issue, as the treading already in place popped slightly here and there as the deck flexed ever so slightly. That necessitated the cutting off the rain gutter in places, applying more CA glue to the treading, then inserting a new gutter section.

I will change the methodology for the next carrier. Now, it seems to make more sense to wait to until after the deck and hull are mated and then install both the treading and gutters.

These photos also show the addition of discharge pipes and some of the lower sponson platform levels installed. Note � there are many discrepancies with the lower platforms as provided by the kit, and mimicked by Artist Hobby. Naturally, more precious time has been spent researching the proper configurations. I�ll address these in the next post.

[Bill Livingston]

Well, I did some touchups of the hull red at 12psi, which was fine. I�m sure I�ll play with air pressure as time goes on.

Good... did you notice a difference in the finish... thinner, much smoother and better coverage?

The downside of course is it is much slower as you need to do several coats and, as you are so much closer, you can only paint a relatively small section with each stroke. But I think you will find the more you play with lower pressures, closer in, and with thinner paint, you will never look back. Airbrushing properly is NOTHING like using an aerosol paint can... its far, far finer and more delicate.

[Dan K]

Progress has been intermittent; too many summer distractions.

Japanese sponson construction for its carriers varied by level, requirement, and location. The lowest and more centrally located platforms were narrow but solid surfaces typically supported by long triangular trusses utilizing lightening holes. The furthest forward and aft most platforms, particularly when lower down, tended to be open mesh walkways supported by light framed struts, which provided less resistance to potentially damaging seas. However, the mix of platforms varied, and ships did not carry such platforms for the full length of the hull.

Fujimi (and Artist Hobby) depict a proper mix of platform types for the lowest level but, they also chose to depict the lowermost platforms as running near full length of the ship. After reviewing all the plans, Fukui illustrations, and various other IJN CVs and CVLs, I have come to the conclusion that this is most unlikely. I have illustrated in red the platforms, or portions of platforms, that I have eliminated. Most of those eliminated are of the open mesh type platforms.

[Dan K]

I had also originally intended to use the AH PE platforms (which utilize only the open struts for support) to replace the kit plastic on the lower level. After reviewing all the research and reducing the platforms, I realized that doing so would not be appropriate for my build. So, I used only the kit pieces depicting the solid portions of the platforms with their molded-on support trusses. I had considered replacing the remaining support trusses with brass PE versions, but doing so seemed of marginal value to me, given their scale size and the sheer number involved.

I then modified the six sponsons for the 10cm main AA batteries. I removed the kit plastic trusses under the platform and substituted brass trusses. Removal of the styrene trusses was challenging, because each sponson actually has a shallow lip that protrudes down off its front face. The only way to scrape everything off without damaging this piece was work form the rear by cutting off the curved support members at the rear, removing all the trusses, then reattaching those same curved members. Fun.

The kit provides a pair of paravanes to be placed forward of the main battery positions on the lower platforms. I had always assumed that these paravanes were launched by the usual small paravane davit, but in researching it and re-examining photos, I was surprised to learn that my assumption was wrong. It seems that all the Japanese carriers used one or two booms attached to the hull or sponson, and not davits, to deploy the paravanes. I don�t know why. I�ve apparently been misinterpreting photos & misrepresenting this detail on models for the longest time. So, the corrected depiction is how it�s represented here, along with a small deck winch for each set of paravanes.

There are multiple platforms for the 25mm AA batteries, all mounted at the same level as the 10cm main battery. Each platform has 1-3 tabs on the inner edge meant to fit into alignment slots cut in the hull. Sadly, the fit for many of them is subpar. Much subtle trimming and sanding was required to get the platforms to fit flush with the hull. Even so, there are noticeable gaps around the joints where the tabs enter the hull. Much of my time has been spent filling the crevasses.

I also came to the same decision regarding replacing the support trusses with PE versions � just not worth it. For the most part, very little of the trusses came be seen in this scale when the model is posed in its normal configuration unless one is looking up from very close-in. An exception would be in a diorama, with a ship in a more dynamic pose. The best example that comes to mind in marijn�s stellar Amagi diorama: viewtopic.php?f=60&t=159615&start=480

[Joe Simon]

Great work Dan as usual!

[garyrunnalls]

Yes, really looking good and the info is a real help.

[Dan K]

It�s been two months since the last update. The NATS, a family vacation, late summer in general, my son�s return to school, and numerous other distractions have all contributed to �production delays.�

A lot of work on Taiho has transpired, though it may not seem so upon viewing. All railings, ladders, and hull related photo etch have been added, as have flight deck illumination lights, landing light arrays, stern maneuvering light, sponson supports and braces, main battery travel stops, anchors, 25mm AA directors and the portside Type 94HA director. There are several things to note, but I�m not done writing everything up. For right now:

I managed to install PE window frames into the small navigation sponsons at each quarter of the hull. This took a little more work than expected, as hollowing out the plastic in such small confines was quite challenging.

[Dan K]

There was some discrepancies with the placement and type davits used for the 9m cutters as well as the placement of the boat booms. I�ll get to the placements at a later time; for now, I will focus on the starboard 9m cutter that was stationed on the sponson supporting the bridge island.

The typical IJN practice was to provide large davits for these boats. Almost every model I�ve seen of Taiho depicts this configuration, as does this kit. However, her plans indicate otherwise. Instead of davits, she used a smaller version of the overhead boat cranes used over the boat deck. Two fixed, overhead beams perpendicular to the hull held pulleys to raise and lower the cutter, which rested on some extended boat chocks. This was not a unique arrangement, as the following Unryu class CVs used the same arrangement.

[Dan K]

Moving on - all the solid, plastic bulwarks surrounding the catwalks that ring the flight deck were cut away and replaced by railing. This step also required widening the platforms to accommodate the increased flight deck width resulting from adding the rain gutters. Doing so required much custom fitting of railings, though I must say that I continue to be impressed by the Fujimi railing PE. It�s been a pleasure to work with. This step would have been even more difficult with flimsier PE. There wasn�t quite enough leftover PE railings (available from the lower level platforms that I did not add) to complete every catwalk. Fortunately, the Artist Hobby set was available to complete a handful of smaller platforms. Additional ladders were added to each platform to access the flight deck.

Sponson support braces were also added as indicated, though not quite as many as the kit would have you do. The flight deck illumination lights also had to be raised slightly on their bases.

[Dan K]

Landing light arrays � The IJN used two banks of red and green colored lamps on each side of the ship to indicate a glide path of approximately 5-6* and keep the pilot centered. This system was a Japanese development that predates the mirrored ball/optical landing system that came into use after WWII in the RN and USN.

Japanese carriers were also set up with another set of arrays and arrestor cables to land aircraft on the flight deck forward, with the carrier steaming astern, in case of flight deck damage aft. (I can�t speak to the RN, but certainly the early US carriers were set up for landings forward as well.) Interestingly, most IJN plans and kits don�t show this, or only show a set of arrays on the starboard side forward. This is erroneous, as the system needs a set of lights on each side to properly set the glidepath.

Neither the Fujimi kit, PE or the Artist Hobby PE provides for a full set of 8 arrays; only 6 are provided. And, interestingly, while the kit's styrene arrays are wide enough, neither PE version is as wide as it should be. So, I chose to use FineMolds PE versions instead. Each array was set on a swing arm girder that could be rotated in 90* to stow against the catwalks when not is use. In practice, the stern arrays were usually left out, but the bow arrays were folded in. I left my bow arrays out, as it would be too hard to paint them properly if folded in. I may fold them in after painting.

[Dan K]

Btw, for those keeping score at home, I did manage to drop the hull once during this time, late at night, Fortunately, it was only a 3 inch drop, and there was no damage or loose parts popping off.

The next step was to tape off the waterline and apply a light, first coat of paint to the entire hull and check for seams, gaps, glue spots, rough spots, debris, ridges, etc.

More to come.

[MartinJQuinn]

Brilliant work!

[Vladi]

That will be another gem, Dan, congratulations!

[Joe Simon]

Great work on this Dan!

[Dan K]

Thx!

The first coat went on fine, and, for the most part, everything came out fine.

[Dan K]

However, one area turned out less than desirable � the treading and round down of the flight deck at the stern. Up very close, there were gaps, unevenness, some sloppy glue applications and clogged mesh in the landing light arrays to either side of the round down. I knew that I would never be satisfied with it, so radical measures were taken.

The rain gutters were removed, as was the treading, and generous amounts of CA debonder used to get the CA off the styrene base for the treaded metal. It was also used to clear the mesh of the arrays. Then, new treading was cut and glued in place, along with new gutters, and some guide lights that sit on the trailing edge of the arrays that I had neglected to add in the first place. It was challenging work, but it certainly came out better than what was there before. We�ll know how good once it�s painted again.

I also added trusses for additional aerials that ran along the perimeter of the hull, forward. These were made from cut down GMM CV masts and brass rod.
The hull received another coat of paint, this time with the hull turned over.

[Dan K]

For the most part, the hull needed very little additional touch-up work. There were only a couple of fissures and rough surfaces, which were resolved without issue. A couple of patches were painted over, then another total coat of paint finished things off. After letting the hull dry overnight, the tape covering the flight deck was peeled away.

Next step: Flight deck lines.

[Dan K]

The last few times I built a CV, perhaps 10 years ago, I relied on the kit supplied decals to mark the flight deck. This time, I decided I would try to paint them on. I did so with some reluctance, as I know I tend to spray heavy, and that can cause a noticeable build-up of paint at the margin where tape meets the plastic. I was also concerned about the proper spacing of the lines.

I was fortunate that Hunter, among others, makes a deck mask. I love deck masks, even if I hadn�t the opportunity to use them up to now due to the lack of availability for the particular ships I�d worked on previously. I�m actually pretty good at taping off decks, but it�s a pain, and it eats up a lot of time.

I chose to start with the large, solid white lines marked cross-wise on the deck. These denote the fire zones below in the hangar decks, which could be sectioned off through the use of fireproofed curtains. I�m guessing their visibility assisted firefighting directions from the bridge. Unexpectedly, I ended up not using the Hunter versions, as they seemed too narrow upon close examination. So, I taped off my own using Tamiya tape. (In retrospect, I�m not at all positive that the Hunter versions are incorrect. Still, I�m satisfied with mine.) I also taped off the very front and rear of the flight deck for additional white markings. (Note: I added a drop or two of black to the white paint, to tone it down, even though it doesn't look different here.)

Thankfully, the spray worked out reasonably well, and just required a few touch-ups. I then applied the Hunter mask for the round down red striping on the aft end of the flight deck. Again, surprisingly, the Hunter mask did not produce red stripes the same width as the white ones, so I had to re-mask the area using my own measurements and Tamiya tape. The second version worked out much better, requiring just a little clean-up.

[Dan K]

Next was the broken striping down the center of the flight deck. I cross-referenced a lot of conflicting sources, and it seems most likely that the line ran true to the axis of the ship, down its centerline, as opposed to the centerline of the flight deck, which was offset to port by two meters in order to counterbalance the large island on the starboard side. This time, the Hunter mask worked out as planned. I�d also set the elevators in their wells for the painting so that their portion of the striping would line up correctly. The elevator plates placed at the bottom of the wells were sprayed separately and then glued to the base of the well.

I�m satisfied with the result.

[Joe Simon]

She is looking great Dan! Can't wait to see the airwing.