The Ship Model Forum

Ron are you going to pannel her like the Moffett for are u going to try somehting new??

Superb Job!!!

Thanks guys, this stage of the build is not always pritty, but she is beginning to take shape, you have to have the ruff before the smooth,

Reid wrote:Ron are you going to pannel her like the Moffett for are u going to try somehting new??

YES and YES,

Looking already very ship-like, Admiral!

And I really like the way you do the rudder - I have to remember that.

Jorit

JWintjes wrote:Looking already very ship-like, Admiral!

And I really like the way you do the rudder - I have to remember that.

Jorit

That neat trick of the rudder stuffing box was done on the Iron Duke. None the less its still a good point to hammer into peoples minds. Nice going admiral.

TommyL.

Ron you "yes and yes" so you are going to do the litho plate but a different way!!! I can't wait to see.

Hi Guys, Before I put the deck on, just a few little things to do. This is the size of the battery I will be using, so we need to know if we can get it in and out of the model through the hole for the superstructure.





I have added 2 sections of timber that is the same width as the superstructure.




I have shaped it for the camber of the deck, also the shear of the hull.




Next was to fit a servo for the rudder and a linkage arm.






A bit of a close up, make sure the servo arm and the tiller arm are parallel to each other.

Hi Ron Great to see the rudder and rudder servo in place, next step the deck ?

Dave Wooley

Good day to the Squire Ron,

Tell me you haven't. You haven't stuck your rudder servo in with filler have you? Apart from that, you're certainly cracking on with this one. She'll be ready for the September meeting at this rate.....Yes?

Keep it up Ron Lad, you're an inspiration to all of us scratchbuilders. Where did I put that flea powder?

HAB

Morning Howie, I always do , never have a problem with servo,s coming loose, I will be able to get at it if need be because its under the rear gun implacement which will be removeable.

The clamps look useful for setting the mid-point, are they purpose bought or ripped out of chocolate block? they look a bit like the chocolate block inserts but I cannot figure how they could then be fitted to the arms and be free to rotate. All my model shop offer are some awful plastic snap on devices, work fine the first time, but you need to take them off to adjust the length and then they won't lock back into place and have to be replaced. I had been thinking of taking the pins out of 13 amp plugs and cutting off the blade, it leaves a short round shaft that I thought could be cut with a thread or perhaps rivetted over to form what you have there, the wire capture screw being used to hold a rod.

Hi Admiral ,

I'm just reading a wonderful book , "Lives of the liners" , written by a Franck O. Braynard , back in 1947 , telling some stories about the most known ( and some unknown ) liners during WW2 .

I quote ( he tells a story about the liner "Oriente" , renamed "Thomas H. Barry" while commissioned by the USN ):

"As the Barry , the Oriente experienced one other newsworthy event in her Army career . Early in 1946 , while approaching New-York , one of the war brides she was carrying was stricken with respiratory paralysis.

An Army plane flew an iron lung from Halloran General Hospital , New-York , to Argentia , Newfoundland , where it was transferred to the Coast Guard cutter Duane . This speedy little vessel , a veteran of many U-boat battles and the Allied landing on the Southern Coast of France , delivered the lung to the Barry , a hundred miles at sea .

The bride , it might be added , recovered ..."

end of quote

I'm pretty sure you didn't know about that ...

Another part of Duane's history ...

Regards ,

laurent

Thanks , very interesting

what was cool. What a nice suprize!!!

Hi Guys, I have marked out the deck and positions for superstructure and guns and forward anchore winches on my 1/32 ply wood deck.






A second overhead shot, the deck is not fastened down yet, there is still work to do inside.




I have cut out for the access under the superstructure.





Depending were you take a photo,from the bow the stern looks shorter , from the stern it looks larger.





This is the cut out to gain access to the rudder sevo, above it will be a 5 inch 51 gun.






enjoy, ARH

Did you add planking on the deck or varnish plywood?

Nice ARHtist work




Jef

Jef, The deck will be planked, and metal near the bow.

Hi Guys, This is how I make my running gear.

I purchase 2 sets of 14 inch shafts, and the shortest set for the bushes I need for the suport A frame near the prop, altogether they cost �24-00 or $48.00.




I take out the shaft and the bush and cut down to size the outer cassing. I then put back the bush in the cut down outer shaft and replace the long inner shaft ,leaving off the washer and nut for the time being.





enjoy, ARH

middle_watch wrote:The clamps look useful for setting the mid-point, are they purpose bought or ripped out of chocolate block? they look a bit like the chocolate block inserts but I cannot figure how they could then be fitted to the arms and be free to rotate. All my model shop offer are some awful plastic snap on devices, work fine the first time, but you need to take them off to adjust the length and then they won't lock back into place and have to be replaced. I had been thinking of taking the pins out of 13 amp plugs and cutting off the blade, it leaves a short round shaft that I thought could be cut with a thread or perhaps rivetted over to form what you have there, the wire capture screw being used to hold a rod.

This is what I use Middle watch,






enjoy, ARH