1/100 Arkmodel Udaloy

[Neptune]

The crack in the hull has been fixed a while back. Basically I used some fibre matting and resin on the inside of the ship. On the outside, in the crack, I used polyester based car body filler. After that I sanded it smooth.

Lots of stuff going on now, I made a visit to the modelshop so I can proceed again. Any decent modelshop is 65km away from me. There is one closer by, but that one is pretty limited in paint and scratch building materials. So I have to wait, make lists of what I need and then plan my visit.

Some of the fittings aft. I made a start on those capstans too. Never saw them that big as the ones on the Udaloy class are about as high as a small man!

Before painting the hull I thought about that step in the hull. I forgot to add the curved part which is part of the beauty of this hull. So now I added that part too and sanded it more or less smooth.

I've also started with some styrene rods and tubes to build the torpedo tubes. The resin versions provided are full of bubbles, cracks and the diameter on some of them is not constant, kind of decreases like an old cannon! So off we go to build my own. A repetitive job, but if I look at the results so far, it'll be quite worth it. One tube on each side is hollow, I'm planning to show a reloading on one side, still have to decide what I will show in the end.

As for a general thought, I think those four holes in the aft superstructure, just behind and below the RBU launchers could be torpedo hatches. So they can put four torpedoes ready on a rack and shift them outside via these four hatches, on both sides. I've seen similar hatches on Chabanenko, but there they are on the bulkhead aft of the torpedo tubes. I don't know any other reason for these four disks on both sides... Any ideas? Don't know if they carried any reloads at sea either, maybe they just reloaded directly after RAS?

[Neptune]

And indeed, the hull is painted by now. One side is ok, the other has some drops of paint running down from it, so I'll have to sand it off and try again. The problem is that I don't really have any paint anymore, I took the last can in the shop, and that pretty much means the last can in Belgium at the moment! I'll also have to adjust those curved parts on both sides a bit as you can still see the edge of them.
I have four torpedo tubes ready with rings. All I have to do now is sand the height and thickness of the rings a bit to be less crude. Then I'll add some of these boxes on top of them and make the small rack which sits on top of the turntable. I've found the real turntable parts now. They are of correct size and more or less well molded. I just added a styrene disk to match better with the height.

[Dave Wooley]

Hi Roel Progress is looking really good .I seem to recall that the Chabanenko had no reloads for the TTs . I noted that you have fitted a number of WT doors into the deck housings . Question are these resin or PE? and what type are they? I was really supprised when you mentioned the distances you have to travel to get to your nearest model shop! We have 4 model shops within the local area and supprisingly they all do a good trade even though the internet side has taken a big slice out of the market .
Dave Wooley

[Neptune]

Yes, but somehow also Chabanenko has to be able to load the tubes in port, and I think, these hatches served for that. They look about the right size. Although I'm pretty open for other suggestions as, indeed, I can also hardly believe the Udaloys carried any reloads. Also that place where the four disks are, is just below the Kinzhal and RBU launchers, which is an unlikely place for torpedoes after all.

The doors were provided with the kit as PE parts. THere are several versions and on all Udaloys again the type of door in each positions differs. You have doors with handles on the right, doors with handles on the left and doors with handles all around. The doors also have a wheel in the centre to operate all clutches inside simultaniously. The wheels are provided seperately, but I haven't fitted them yet as I'm still working mainly on the hull for now.

Today I haven't done much, sanded and glued the rings on one torpedo tube, also fitted the supports for one of the control boxes on that tube. Furthermore I just sanded off the drops of paint on one side and I added some milliput on the curved insert, to better blend it in with the hull.

[klein loewietje]

Roel, be sure I'll come by one day and have a look!
What paint is it you are using? Maybe, just maybe I could find some for you.

Johan

[Dave Wooley]

Hi Roel Will these photos be of any assistance taken on the Admiral Levchenco ?





Dave Wooley

[Neptune]

Always welcome as you know, just send me a mail or call me before as my Messenger isn't really working anymore.
I'm using Revell's Acrylic paint now, the colours are quite matching.

Ok, so I'll reveal my unit. I've chosen Admiral Tributs, a Pacific Fleet unit. I'm painting her in her 1992 livery. Pretty odd with some decks, including helo deck, green, others red. I've also noticed they actually had painted the Zif decoy launchers pitch black.
The colourfulness of that particular unit in that timeframe was one of the appealing things to me. The other reasons were the extra machineguns in twin mountings (one barrel below the other with shieldings) on both sides of the hangar and bridge. I love that extra weaponry (and I'm building most of it from scratch anyway, so why not make some extra teeth for her). Another thing that attracted me was the fact that this particular unit seems to be flag bearer of the Soviet/Russian Navy. Back in the days she had a Soviet flag painted on both sides of her hangar and in 1992 she had the new Andrew's cross/Russian Navy flag painted in that position. Something odd, but very easy to identify that unit in pictures. Here is a picture with the Soviet flag painted on the hangar. And a nice picture during her deployment in 1992. I've found pictures of that same deployment with a Broadsword frigate in the background and also one with a Perry in the background and a SeaHawk overhead.

Edit: Thanks Dave, you've sent me some of those before although the first and very useful one I didn't have yet (although I have it from some other units in the class). The Torpedo tubes are one of the few things that actually is the same on all units of this class. However the two things placed one deck above them in front of the Kinzhal launchers seems to be missing on the sole Udaloy II (Chabanenko) and also on Levchenko as your picture is proving. I still don't know what those things were used for...

[Neptune]

some more pictures of the Tributs as she will be built by me. Notice the black zif launcher forward, the twin machinegun on the bridge roof and of course the green helo deck and A deck for the AK-100 gun.

Also notice the waterline on the aft part of the ship, on the model that is a big problem. The hull shape is not correct aft, which results in the metal fender being too high on the hull. It actually ends above the knuckle in the hull, in the real thing, the fender ends below that knuckle. Since the waterline is an extension of the fender, also the waterline ends up above the knuckle (also in the stern). I'll show some pictures of it. I noticed this already before, but now, during painting and redrawing the waterline, I figured there is no real solution for it. The freeboard above the fender seems pretty ok, so that means the knuckle is too low. Practically it means I'd have to cut off the entire stern (and take the bulb from the bow too as that one is also too broad and too short... Not really possible for now. I'll just finish it as it is, but I'll have a look to try and lower that waterline aft at least a few mm without being too obviously bent with the forward waterline.

[Neptune]

And here are some pics of the model.
This is how I put the waterline, give the ship a nicely balanced position upright and evenkeel, then fix the pensil on something and get a flat floor (my working space doesn't have that as the wooden planks are a little bent)
As you can see the waterline on the stern isn't really straight for now, but after measuring the freeboard on both sides, it was even worse to see. On starboard the line will end up 2 or 3mm above the knuckle, on the portside it stays where it is... This means, the height of the hull is not the same on both sides (something I noticed before too).
Anyway, I started painting one side, but apparently my skills with an airbrush aren't very developped. Ended up a disaster, so I stopped. Paint was dripping all over the airbrush and wasn't really coming well on the model (with the grey it seemed to work, no idea what went wrong this time??? Any ideas anybody? ) tried to make some adjustments in pressure and nozzle height, but still resulted in paint dripping out.
Another problem I noticed is that the grey paint is coming off with the Tamiya tape. I guess some primer wouldn't have been a bad idea on this smooth fibreglass hull.

[ozpirate]

You said somethings wrong with the stern of your model. Can you be more descriptive or more pictures to show the problem. Actually more images of the stern shape would be great. Since I'm planing a similar ship next year (planning on making a mould at scale 1/72 to cover Udaloy 1,2 and 3 classes).Side, stern and some other shots would be great.
Mick

[Dave Wooley]

Hi Roel The problem with some new GRP hulls is that the release agent used in the moulding process can remain on the surface and does need to be wiped down with a light detergent or washing up liquid. If you painted straight on to the fresh surface than it could be possible that the paint is only adhering to the film of release agent and so will easily be lifted even by using a low tack tape. The air brush problem could be just down to the amount of thinners used or you have the needle to far out, could be helpful to wind it down to reduce the amount of paint leaving the nozzle. Question are you using a compressor with a water trap? It's always useful to get some practice in on blank sheets, just to get the feel of the air brush the equipment you are using.
Dave Wooley

[Neptune]

The needle is already down to the lowest position. Thinners might be the problem, I'm using acrylics so I'm just thinning with water. Possibly a little too much of it, although I'm not using too much and I first tried without any thinner at all, yet experienced the same problem... I am using a compressor with water trap (Sparmax Standard class compressor). I did some nice tests already, once I had the same problem, but other times I didn't really have a problem, same with the hull actually, I didn't have any of these drops (which makes me think it's the paint or amount of thinner).
I didn't wash of the hull though... Damn!

Mick, here is a shot with some indications. As you can see, the painted waterline is a continuation of the metal fender. If you compare this with a shot of the model you'll see the fender ends way above the knuckle in the model hull and hence the painted waterline, if made a continuation of the fender, ends up above that knuckle on the stern too. A big difference, certainly when you see the entire hatch should be above the waterline in reality, on the model the whole lower edge and around 1cm of the hatch would be below the waterlevel (in this scale that makes over 1m!!!)
The problem itself is that the knuckle is too low on the model hull. And of course that the hull is not high enough aft. Below that knuckle it extends a little more down to allow for that half cilindrical pattern (as seen on Slava, Kirov, Udaloy) below the variable depth sonar.

[Neptune]

Some more stuff for you Mick. Here you have some pics of the Bulb, I'll take some similar ones of the model and you'll see the bulb is too wide (seen from the bow, the Udaloy looks actually quite sharp, even with that bulb), however on the model it looks like a big potato sitting there. I think this hull was built using the plans in Pavlov's book, so don't use those plans... Or adapt them.

[Capit�o Norbert]

Hi Neptune good work on model
the paint process are really for me a wonderfull job to do......

[ozpirate]

For a long time the bow of my ship seamed not right but finally a picture that makes my bulb of my bow seam right. My Kuznetsov when looking from the angle you have is very similar. At first thinking it was wrong until I saw this image. Thanks for that.

[Neptune]

Ok, so the paint comes off... I did continue with the red, although a rather rough surface, it seems pretty well stuck to the hull. The grey however, is coming off like nothing. I did clean the hull before with water, but never used detergent. On the newly painted part I did use some detergent and then washed it off. It seems like a good result up till now.
Don't be mistaken on this picture, it looks much better than in reality. In reality you see a lot of the grey has peeled off near the waterline, stuck to the tape.
Here is also the aft end, that looks at least ok, I've also made a small estimate on where the knuckle on the lower hull should be near the stern. It should be much more aft, with of course, the semi-circular pattern in it (didn't draw that though). I suspect the hatch to be smaller in reality, coming up a little higher. This is also the waterline where I could put it without making it too obvious from the side.
And also a shot of the large bulb, I still think it's too big though. But I can live with it. First large scale model after all. Trying to do my best, but modelling remains an experience-based art. (sorry for the slow progress, I'm also working on the torpedo tubes and the next project)

[Dave Wooley]

OK Roel so you have one or two set backs, the important thing is that you gain from these as a positive experiences and move on, which you have done. In large scale model building particularly �working� models I apply a rather rule of thumb principle if it�s not quite right but looks right then it must be right and it works. Some times its better to accept the hull shape you are working with knowing that it may be to difficult to resolve the issues with out making matters worse .That's what you have to work with so there is no point in being unduly concerned with what you can not change. There is no need for you to apologize for being slow you are the model builder, you build at the pace you are comfortable with. I always try to focus on the prime purpose of model building and that is providing enjoyment and personal satisfaction all else is a bonus.
Dave Wooley

[Neptune]

That is true, but I guess this is a remainder of my 1/700 past, there you can simply change things by cutting it off and sanding something. In the worst case you just saw a part of the plastic off and put some styrene in place and shape it. In this case it's a lot more difficult so it will be like this.
I've painted the bow sonar windows now. The paint once again came off, but I just made some touch ups by brush. I won't be doing any major repainting before making a water test. I'm also busy with the anchor chocks.

Further I've finally located a toy shop which actually has the acrylics too. That's the good thing about Revell, you can still find those paints and models in toy stores. If you want Humbrol or anything else over here you'll have to drive all the way to Antwerp (and some can be found in Ghent too, but not Humbrol).

[Neptune]

Here is a picture of the real anchor chocks. As you can see the anchors are partially recessed when they are in position. That would mean cutting in the hull and making some structure behind it. I could do that, but I would only do that when the anchors would be operational. Now they will be stationary, stuck to the hull, so I'll just keep it like this. Just reduced the shape a little and made some styrene blocks with holes (for the anchor shaft) to put inside the pre-arranged shape.
The deck is also painted dark brown now. I'll see what colour it becomes when it's dry. Then I'll be painting the bollards and of course the aft superstructure with hangar etc.

[klein loewietje]

Roel,
You say you're using acrylics. Well, apart from Vallejo, you'd better thin them with alcohol (not the drinking kind, but those made for acrylic, like Tamiya's X-20A). The reason is that some acrylics are alcohol-based, and not water based.
Revell's Aqua Color is indeed waterbased, but for airbrushing, you better use a 50/50 amount of water and alcohol to thin it down. That way it'll dry a lot faster, and normally won't run.

Johan