The Ship Model Forum

STEP 4 - Insert upper level of the hangar... I kind of undecisive whether I wanted to show 2 levels or 1... so I made 2 levels just in case I change my mind... STEP 5 - Took me a while to look at various references, just to get an idea how the side mechanism of the elevator would look like.. eventually I decided to base on models made by Japanese modeller and made structural columns on the side. In between the columns are counter weights, but because the door is at the first level, the weight will be at lower level visually hidden by the door. No need to make weights. STEP 6 - Both sides completed. Continue next post

absolutly fantastic!

Really nice.

STEP 7 - Test it first under the deck... but then I realise it is too small, the end wall can be viewed directly from the opening... STEP 8 - Disassembled it... and enlarge the first level. STEP 9 - That is how it looks like now.. Continue next post

Completed - without the hangar door. Completed - with the hangar door

Great work

John

Back to the stern, added a few details:

Added downpipes Made a little building according to the Gakken book using plastic card: Attached the building onto the stern:

brilliant! Excellent scratchworx!

It is brilliant. That new compartment is "rest" compartment for additionall AA crews. I've always thought that "rest" in this sense meant additional berthing space fr or those AA crews.

PORTHOLES / WINDOWS
Another long process, at first I found it hard to do & then get used to it later on.

Cut a long thin plastic strip, then wrap them around the tweezers, then cut them to the right length. Attached onto the hull with Tamiya thin glue.

Ok, here is the hardest part - the JACK STAY... took me one week to make one side of the hull.

STEP 1 - I used photo-etch rectangular mesh made in Korea that I brought in EBay, great product because it is very hard, great for making jack stay of out it. STEP 2 - Measure the length required STEP 3 - Cut the photo-etch as shown, note the branches are cut short, but some are intentionally left uncut and longer than the rest. Continue next post

STEP 4 - Drill very small holes for the installing the longer branches within. STEP 5 - Completed - I used a needle to put thin superglue on branches that are inserted within the holes first, and then put superglue between the rest of the branches & the hull . It took me an average of 15mins for the whole process from STEP 1 - STEP5 for 3-4cm long jack stay. There are 2 layers of jack stay wrapping around the full length of the hull, plus more in other areas of the hull. Each night I can only made maximum of 10cm for each sides of the hull... I found it very tiring to be honest... and I do not enjoy it at all!!! Another example showing jack stays in the bow. Click on this photo to see enlarge details

Finished painting to the 13M Cutter, very happy with it.

Brilliant work!!

I'm seeing it but still can't believe it, what you have done here is extraordinary AC i remember years ago with i bought Nichimo's 1/500 Mutsu and after seeing what came inside that box i was most disappointed what a bathtoy model !!!! your work is stunning and i'm really, really looking forward to see this carrier all painted..


Jose

Note: Degaussing cable, not jackstay. But, brilliantly done. This is the finest build of this kit I have ever seen.

Another painted cutter:

The painted landing craft, note the added rudder in first photo:

Jaw dropping build you have going there I really love your styrene supports while at the same time I'm really jealous of your skill Keep up the good work mate

Cheers

Sylvain

Construction is nearly finish, photos of overall progress below before spray painting, click on photo to enlarge to see close-up details: