Calling all Iowa-class (BB-61) fans

[rtwpsom2]

I think you accidentally a word, EJ.

[gtbred]

yeah I know,tooo much on your plate. but i really wanted a early BigJ like the photos. so i have the parts needed to do the job. hopeful that the build will look close to the photos. my first all gun build.

[EJFoeth]

I think you accidentally a word, EJ.

I ran that sentence though every means of translation available (bablefish, the universal translator, translator microbes). Perhaps the word missed is missing?

[rtwpsom2]

I think you accidentally a word, EJ.

I ran that sentence though every means of translation available (bablefish, the universal translator, translator microbes). Perhaps the word missed is missing?

Sorry, EJ, it's an internet meme used when someone makes an error in syntax. I don't know if you made the mistake or the hosting company did, but last night the image didn't appear and I felt like being silly about it.

**EDIT** While I am in here, does anyone have a copy of the Table of Molded Offsets for the class? I have the Floating Drydock E-book and drawings, and they have the countour lines, but I prefer to work from the TMO's.

[Thomas E. Johnson]

How stiff and rigid is the PE sets from Flyhawk, compared to GMM and Eduard's stuff? Also, I see 2 different sets Flyhawk sets listed for the 1/350 Missouri, a super detailing set, and a deluxe super detailing set. What extras come with the deluxe set? I can't see any pictures on Freetime's website of these products to tell me. I'm slowly finishing up my 1991 1/350 Missouri kit bashed from the Tamiya New Jersey kit.

[Matt52590]

Thomas,

I own the "super deluxe" version of the flyhawk set for the 1/350 Missouri. Rdenman62 on this forum also has this set. They have been very hard to find ( I had to order mine from Italy.. ) Being that each PE set seems to have their own unique features, I own several different ones for my build. The Super deluxe version has a seemingly large advantage over its "deluxe" counterpart. The super deluxe set gives you very accurate bulkhead detailing for all vertical surfaces, brass barrels and resin parts, whereas the deluxe version has none of . Take a look on the bottom of page 50 of this forum and you'll Rdenman already has his bulkhead details attached. ( I have yet to get there on mine; still on the turrets) They really enhance the look of the model IMO. In terms of thickness compared to the GMM set (which i also have) that is fairly thick, the Flyhawk set is very fragile. Not to say it will break easily but Flyhawk is also a much more detailed set than GMM. Another similar set for the Missouri is the Lion Roar Super detail set. Similar in that it is also a highly detailed set, includes resin and brass parts but does not have bulkhead details. But if your looking for durability, Lion Roar is a little less flimsy than Flyhawk i have found. Anyway, hope this helps and if you happen to come onto a flyhawk deluxe or super deluxe set, I'd say go for the super deluxe if you can find one. Otherwise Lion Roar is a good alternative.

Regards,

-Matt

P.S. Private message me and I'll send you a link to a good review on the Super detail flyhawk set, it shows all the sheets of PE and resin parts you get with the kit.

[bigjimslade]

I was referred to this forum from another site. I have been reviewing this long thread. I was shocked to see how many of my own photos had been reposted here. It is great to see people are actually using them.

I am working on a solid 3D model. I am starting with the New Jersey in its current form (after that I might consider sisters and other time periods). The hull was the biggest nightmare to get done. The rest is moving at a much faster pace. The first picture shows the current state of progress. There's not a lot of detail (yet).

If you zoom into close (second picture) you can see that the barrels have the right number of grooves; correct groove spacing and shape; and even the correct twist.

My ultimate goal is to generate some kind of modeling project out of this using a variety of techniques (e.g., 3d printing, laser cutting, milling)--scale undecided at this point. (I thought the folks here would find this more interesting than those in the computer modeling section.)

[Rob-UK]

I love that photo of USS Wisconsin a few posts above - driving round a corner and seeing that beauty towering above you is the stuff of dreams!

[helodriver]

This is my first post to the forum, although I have used its info and pictures alot for research. I am usually a plane and space builder, but I am now working on a 1/700 3-ship diorama of the New Jersey, Detroit and John F. Kennedy depicting the one time they rendezvoused together off Beruit in 1983-84. I was a H-46 pilot on the USS Detroit (AOE-4) at that time and wanted to recreate the moment. I had some of my own photos, but also got some great refeence shots from the JFK cruise book. Here are a few of the actual photos from the cruise.

[helodriver]

I am almost done with the Tamiya New Jersey configured to 1983. I used the Lion Roar gun barrels, GMM PE set and the Artwoxmodel pre-cut wood deck. I still have the flag rigging and finishing the antenna wires for the bow antenna mast. I also am trying to figure out what to do for the life raft holders since they are not part of the 1/700 PE set. Any suggestions?
Here are a few pictures of my model. You may note that the H-2 is backward on the port side. That is where it was parked when we conducted our vertrep with the New Jersey. I will be adding cargo and crew to the ship once I get ready to put in together with the Detroit and JFK.

[Thomas E. Johnson]

Well I got the Flyhawk super deluxe set. Matt above wasn't kidding when he said it was complex. However the instructions are poorly written in my opinion. Many of the really tiny parts simply can't be used without either destroying them, or gluing them to myself, or worse, spilling glue all over. Many of the resin parts offer no advantages over the stock plastic parts they are suppose to replace. All in all about 2/3 to 3/4 of whats here will end up on the model. I've already decided against using the Flyhawk PE anti-aircraft weapons because they look to 2 dementional, as well as very cumbersome to handle and assemble. I use weapons sets from Alliance instead. I have a few other models to finish before I start this once anyway.

[Guest]

In May, I was standing on a cliff in the Marin headlands, overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge, when the Iowa was towed out of the Bay, on her way to Southern California to become a museum ship. I took a lot of photos, and thought I'd share some of them here.

Enjoy!

Rob

[EJM]

Soon this Summer or Fall, I want to get another TAMIYA 1/350 USS New Jersey battleship kit and modify it into another WHAT IF subject. I'd like to install VLS on it, but I'm not sure where. In the below pic I am using as an example, I've seen past modelers put VLS in the areas where the armored Tomahawk Box Launchers are. Since VLS tubes are maybe 10-15 or so feet tall, Would putting VLS in the areas where the ABL's are be a good idea or not? What interior space (Indicated by the red squares) is under the ABL's? Is it crew quarters, galley, machinery space, or what? When I make my next WHIF battleship, I want it to be somewhat technically believeable and I don't want to put VLS where it's not supposed to go or where it might not fit due to interior obstacles, etc.
Secondly, What is the rectangular structure (Green square) that the CIWS's sit on? What is inside that structure?

[Russ2146]

The answers to all your questions can be found here: http://www.hnsa.org/doc/plans/bb62.pdf
Basically, If you put in VLS, you using space that is currently used for something else right now.
Some are of no consequence, like the TV studio or conference room, However, others are inportant, like the armored second deck (that's the one below the main deck)

BTW, your aft red box sort of eliminates a large crew's Head.

[rdenman62]

Gonna take the plunge and scratchbuild one of these in 1/350 scale...Already have the Missouri under consruction and since there have been so many Missouri builds on this forum I wanted something a little different. I dont know if the Missouri was ever in one of these ABSD but mine will be....I know theres a company that makes one of these in 1/700 but not in 1/350 and I'm tired of waiting for them to produce one in 1/350. I do not have a timetable to finish but will post progress pics as I move this project along. I'm hoping this project will also motivate me to finally finish my Missouri build I started over a year and a half ago

[gtbred]

Mr. Ray Bean did a 1/350 scratchbuilted ABSD for his Mo years ago. good luck on your build.

[Russ2146]

A worthy goal for sure.

Floating Dry Dock has plans dated 1944 for $30. They are "G" series, meaning copies of the Booklet of General Plans, but not the entire booklet. It seems to include Hull, Main Deck and Plan View, along with misc. interiors and the data page.

This is Wisconsin in ABSD-1 at Orote Guam in 1952
http://www.navsource.org/archives/09/28/09280102.jpg

Your inspiration photo is Iowa in ABSD-2 at Manus, Admiralty Islands

Advanced Base Sectional Docks (ABSD) were reclassified as AFDB,
Large Auxiliary Floating Dry Dock in 1946.
As BRAC and Congress in their military expertise have determined that the Navy doesn't need any forward area repair facilities, other than Japan, they have all been sold off and the ship repair facility on the US island of Guam has been closed.

[Wacko]

Does anyone know how many searchlights were on the Missouri and what size they were. Also where were they located. Thank you for what ever information anyone can give me on this. I am building the Missouri in 1/192 scale, I like the 1942 to 1944 era.

Wacko
Joe

[rdenman62]

According to the Floating Drydock's Plan Book for the Missouri (September, 1945), there are a pair of 24" searchlights (P/S) on the flag bridge level. There are another pair of 36" searchlights (P/S) on the pilot house level, aft of the MK37 director tower. And there is another pair of 36" lights (P/S) on the aft stack.

[rdenman62]

New Jersey fans have you seen the release from tamiya?
http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_ ... 028-os.htm