HMAS Brisbane AWD Hobart Class 1/72

[Capit�o Norbert]

Thanks Norbert, yep it's an enamel auto primer. It's a very fine primer with a slighty satin - semi gloss finish. I'll be using enamels again as the top coat with a satin finish. As it's a working model I won't be using any arcrylics.

i agree about acrylics
thanks for response

[Perth_shipyard]

Yep definitely some of guys have learnt the hard way. As we sail right through winter and summer with the heat reaching 40+ degrees C, the paint work mixed with running in sometimes brackish pond water haha can take its toll. She will need a refit later in life but I'd like to prolong it as long as possible haha

Russ's Churchill which is in that photo above is nearly 14 years old and still looks as good as new! She's only just undergone a refit - after that pic - mainly to modernise her as to the upgrades the real ship has. So anything to keep Brissy's running life prolonged

[Goodwood]

Well shoot, if I owned something that big and complicated, I'd want to keep her in good repair as well! Particularly if it's a working model. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right...

Someday, I'll have that cabin cruiser shaped like the USS Enterprise CV-6...

[Perth_shipyard]

Hey Sean haha, that enterprise will be awesome! One of the guys just received his hull for the HMS Hermes - Falklands conflict - then two others are waiting for a USS Pearl Harbor - LHD- and the largest beast is a USS Constellation carrier! Soon my Brissy will be one of the smaller ships! Hermes is 3.5m and the constellation will be something like 4.5m!!!

Could this be the future of Task Force 72 Fleet Base Perth??? I damn hope so! Hahaha

[Capit�o Norbert]

Yep definitely some of guys have learnt the hard way. As we sail right through winter and summer with the heat reaching 40+ degrees C, the paint work mixed with running in sometimes brackish pond water haha can take its toll. She will need a refit later in life but I'd like to prolong it as long as possible haha

Russ's Churchill which is in that photo above is nearly 14 years old and still looks as good as new! She's only just undergone a refit - after that pic - mainly to modernise her as to the upgrades the real ship has. So anything to keep Brissy's running life prolonged

I like to apply a coat of matte varnish to seal the paint from the sun and other types of destructive agent of paint, helps

[Perth_shipyard]

Thanks Norbert I did hear something about that. A lot of the guys do that to their hulls

[Perth_shipyard]

The painters got their brushes out once again at the Shipyard Van Tami! Brissy is now anti-fouled! Decided to keep with the trend of the modern RAN - must have a surplus of submarine paint! - so she has a black bottom. I have the hull two coats of primer and three coats of satin black.

[Capit�o Norbert]

good job
what the length of the model?

[Perth_shipyard]

Thanks Norbert she's 2.05 meters overall length

[Capit�o Norbert]

Thanks Norbert she's 2.05 meters overall length

WOW long model i can have an idea about this size
Bismarck measure 250,5cms

[Perth_shipyard]

Haha see it's still smaller than Bismarck! We displayed at the autumn river festival this Sunday just gone beside another model boat club the Australian Marine Modelers Society and their president has a stunning Bismarck at 1/80 scale at just over 3 meters I think. Like you he's made everything - technical engineer all his life. My largest in the near future will be the dutch De Ruyter 1942 which will be about 2.7meters but most likely before either that russian corvette which I have the hull for already (1.4m) or an Anzac class frigate with the ASMD upgrade (1.6m). I need something smaller haha

[Perth_shipyard]

Thought I'd have some fun with rope work as it's been awhile! Made up the ensign staff, though the line I used looks a bit thick so may redo it again.

[Capit�o Norbert]

I will also reduce the size of my models going forward.

[Perth_shipyard]

Making up a few more detailed items, both RAS derricks, small square deck hatches and about 30 power outlets (thin strip with two pieces of rod, wiring will be added after main painting is completed.


Mixture of U channel, rod, strip and stainless steel eye.


Put these off for ages as I had planned on remaking the superstructure, as I had, I didn't have an excuse anymore!





Thanks to that leather hole punch I picked up the smaller discs are a breeze to make up.

[Perth_shipyard]

Decided my original seizing on the ensign staff was far too large for the scale! More like 1/32 than 1/72, so off it came. Rather than seize 4-5m of thread I put plastic tube over the brass staff to beef it up then seized as before this time using .5mm thread or about 3.2cm line in real life - made a few of these for real! Haha seizing used up 2.5m of thread but I think the result is worth it. The brown thread I used originally I used to make a simple 'Turks head' knot at either end.


Simple half hitch




Pulled tight and up results in the winding effect up the staff


After using 2.5m of thread! Coated in super thin CA - it will be painted white later but to help keep it in check.

[Perth_shipyard]

Making up the 'Turks head'








Done.

PS if I'm posting too many pics let me know!

[Perth_shipyard]

Bit the bullet so to speak... First coat of N44 Bridge grey on USS I mean HMAS Briabane! After coaming over pics of Scott's Sydney and Russ's hobart, it looks so strange!

[Perth_shipyard]

Overall shot


I've found some more areas now which still need a light sanding before the next coats. The photos make her look flawless haha

[Perth_shipyard]

Making up bollards, simple enough just need a very sharp new blade to cut straight.









Ok I think, these will be pinned as well as glued down.

[Neptune]

Not too many pics at all. This is great to follow, with almost daily updates! Leather punches are a blessing indeed.
For bollards, to cut them straight, I made a hole of exactly the tube diameter in a 2mm styrene plate, drilled it with a drill. Then I insert the piece of tube. Like this you can file or cut it very perpendicular and straight. I think I have some pics in the first pages of the Chaconia topic of that method. I was also putting a full styrene stanchion on the inside to avoid deformation during cutting of the tube.
I'm kind of curious about one thing. Why did you do the dark colour first? I do the lighter colour first, full coat and then only the anti-fouling which is darker. Otherwise there is the risk of the dark colour shining through the lighter top colour. Well, that's the way I learned it from Mr. Wooley. I'm however always open to other experiences. So do you have a particular reason or experience why you do the darker colour first?

Love the result so far, this is going like a train!