The Ship Model Forum

t�t� - t�t� - t�t�
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vv-wq-prqNk

... as does german carnival ...

And here comes some petitesse: the kedge on the mizzen channels ...



... with the foldable iron stock and locks ...



... and having a test placement - and shooed it to the back end for that the palms keep clear davids and boats.

Also found finally the guts to drill the holes for the dales of the chain pumps ...



... with their strange places on top of the gunport and in the middle of the stairs.

t�t� - t�t� - t�t�
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vv-wq-prqNk


And some more unsignificant things on a ship of this kind: first ten guns are permanetly fixed.

First breechroped them, decided to opt for the controversial Goodwin setting, with S-laid rope and preventer brreching rope - just to keep the discussion going



Prepared outboard on the already shown template ...



... and with a small cheat on the eye splice of the preventer breeching line



Mise en place ...



... and ...



... enjoy!




Happy carnival greetings ...

t�t� - t�t� - t�t�
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vv-wq-prqNk

Daniel

Season greetings out off the kitchen, just a little bit of ship ...



... but it is just a question of ones point of view



Greetings, Daniel

HI Daniel

it's simple,I seem to see the real ,really impresive work!!
congrats
Nicolas

Today is a special day. Today three years ago I started my building report at Wettringers - this is where the madness really took off

And to celebrate my little Vic got some small presents to get soon many more sisters

That is why, a small and logic step for myself, but a leap for the heller-builders ...



So courageously cut the window bars with a sharp wire cutter ...



... clean with a scalpel ...



... do the touch ups with the file ...



... and fit in the etch parts.





Then scratch off the name cartouche ...



... take the template, mark the position ...



... and glue in the Letters

Last put the 8 bolts. For not loosing the bolts - outside diamater 1 mm or larger at choice - I secured them with Sellotape.





Next step is easy and wont make you sweat after all this: Scratch down the old rigols and ...



... replace them by the new ones.



...hihihihi...


H�ppy anniversary,

XXXDAn

And of course the parts I neede for the lower deck



Looks a bit like ticks ...



... also one size for the 12 pounders



I blacken them before assembly, makes painting easier ...



... place over a gap ...



... and press them into a curve with something round.




A small touch with the file to create space for the glue underneath ...



... a drop of CA ...



... placed ...



...colored ...



... and brushed:-)



The other 2757 part will be shown peu � peu containing everything a Heller heart desires ...

XXXDAn


PS: And me stupid did glue the first guns already in, forgetting about those ciphers ...

... now I can look how i fix that ...

Magnificent .. then - and now!!

For you its the journey--.... not the end result... eh!!



Jim Baumann

Last cognizance was that I forgot the ciphers on the already glued in guns ...

...so I tried something new ...

... I thought ...

... and remembered, that CA does not stick on silicon. So stuck a ball of silicon on a stick and took a form of one gun with cipher.

After taking off the form, I plaved a cipher inside and ...



... with some CA on the cipher I ran full risk ...



... and placed it onto the gun, and after two seconds I was able to retrieve the stick and the cipher was on place

Have to remember this trick

And just some more Cipherorama ...



Enjoy, Daniel

very good rescue mission! innovative and evidently successful!

A less risky ** alternative method ...


( ** ==> if the CA sticks in the wrong place all is lost ! )

( this is a method which I often employ when spotting something that needs to be added on a deck when buried among the rigging )

.......Could have been to....

========================================================================================================

Use a stick to place a spot of un-thinned matt varnish on gun barrel top ( matt varnish has a longer working time than CA )
Use a stick to place crest on gun barrel top .

If the placement was wrong you could have shunted the crest up and down the barrel tot he desired position...

========================================================================================================


This is of course now all hypothetical ....as you appear to have had complete success !!

Thank you Jim, the varnish I used for the tiny letters on the figure head, and this is the right tip for occasions like this.

Luckily, by the form of the barrel, its reinforcement ring and the gunlock, the silicon form was self centering

Lieber Dank, Daniel




PS:

And here comes yesterdays workout program:



First the easiest part the poop skylight - Still the glazing and some reinforcements on the inside have to be added.



Then the different gunport lid hinges ...



... in place and beringed, both sides.



The fake steering wheel columne:



The rail of the poop got more exiting again. Closed the slots and cut off the nipples from the buckets ...



... flexed the new hangers of the buckets ...

... drilled the holes for the hammock cranes into the styrene ...



... and fixed the cranes and a bucket - fits



Even more fun was the binnical ...



... the outside was tight part to be bent, bent the inside part, paper "flooded with thin CA" (Reed) as base for the compass layer cake, ...



... small top for the funnel formed with the center punch ...



... and with the styrine rod and the micro rings on the side it is at least an improvement towards the one of the box

Still mising the glazing and the lantern in the middle, this one out of a toothpick as done before.

And then the heading for mishaps, missteps, and misfortune: the boarding pikes.

The brass parts were ok, but first I took the wrong measures - first tear-off - then forgot that I elongated the rubbing pouch downwards - second tear-off - and then still misplaced the rings and lost the nice detail of the spearhead underneath the ring - no tear off as I did not manage - so have to live with this small mishap ...

One can imagine, how the brass parts and the masts looked like ...
In the meantime I managed to clean it up a tad, and the rest will disappear underneath the collar that protects the hole in the deck and the underneath the main and preventer stay.



Now still have to try the chains and some other unimportant stuff

Lieber Gru�, Daniel

...hihihihi...

...good night goody ...







...and the one I was most curious for:



Gr��le, Daniel

dafi wrote:....
The brass parts were ok, but first I took the wrong measures - first tear-off - then forgot that I elongated the rubbing pouch downwards - second tear-off - and then still misplaced the rings and lost the nice detail of the spearhead underneath the ring - no tear off as I did not manage - so have to live with this small mishap ...

One can imagine, how the brass parts and the masts looked like ...
In the meantime I managed to clean it up a tad, and the rest will disappear underneath the collar that protects the hole in the deck and the underneath the main and preventer stay.



Now still have to try the chains and some other unimportant stuff

Lieber Gru�, Daniel

Daniel,

this build looks insanely good...

Just one thing though - it looks like there is a major mold seam running along the length of the mast. Or is that my eyes playing tricks on me and my absolutely non-existing knowledge of HMS Victory?

Thank you, Dutchbird,

but there are even four of those lines

These are the splitlines of the made masts. When I build them, they first were smooth, but I realised that they were looking like the ones in Porttsmouth ...

.. and those are steel masts. The real masts were made of a multitude of parts, the main body consisting of a core and 4 side parts. As the masts do move and bent, the paint over those split lines would be fast to crack and leave the shown mark.

Here a excerpt from Steel 1795
http://hnsa.org/doc/steel/mastplate2.htm

All the best, Daniel

Hi Dafi,

I follow your thread with more and more anticipation. It is unbeliveable what a stunning level of detail you put into your model. For me your Victory is a very dense Diorama for itself and consisting of a huge amount of fantastic models. Each new step opens a new world of things and pieces that could bee seen with such an eye for the deatail as you have. Every piece is made with such a patience and perfection that I really miss words how to say. An absolute masterpiece, simply breathtaking.

With my deepest respect
Peter

Hello Daniel

your work is always a pleasure to see!Creativity is the key word in your thread ,an inspiration
superb demonstration of knowledge to make
congrats
Nicolas

great build

Thank you Sirs,

It feels great to be back in the shipyard after some absence due to work and holiday. So got my building report out of page 47 and undusted it ...

A friend of mine once said, it is no etch, if it doesn�t hurt, so I tried one of the last parts, with some tiny lilies ...



... but I think they still need some water to grow a tad ...



XXXDAn

Hi Daniel,

beautiful PE parts

Etched by Saemann? What�s the thickness of the sheet metal, pls?

Bye,

CIX.

Hy it is the 0,2 mm brass, great stuff. And it was his work, marvelously done

After my small sidekick ...

viewtopic.php?f=59&t=151997&start=20#p585321

... a quick return to the main project as the cap-squares arrived yesterday



Immediately build the template ...



... and assembled



Also the gunlocks ...



... almost to small to be pictured, but still managed to fix them easily by using the sprue to be inserted in a hole underneath.

So mission accomplished, the guns are completed







And with ease I managed to triple the number of parts for each gun from 7 to 21 ...

Hurray

Best regards, sincerily, Daniel

hello Daniel

it is always a pleasure to see your progress
your guns are absolutely stunning great Daniel
congrats
Nicolas